Schmuck

I am looking at the $25 TC9 motor, for those who do not know what I am talking about they can be found at caraudiojunkyard.com. There are 4 variations of the TC9 motor, which one is this? The only thing I know about them is that they are the ones with the 1" slugs. Is that the same motor that is used on the SS RL-P's? If not does anyone know of a sub that this model TC9 motor is used on? I am trying to figure out which one I am getting. If it is the model on the RL-P's then I might have to get some for sure.

I have 2 07 Merlin MD3's and i did have them strapped but I had to take them out of strap mode because the master amp was slipping in and out of protect. With them working individually I do not have that problem but I am having problems matching the output. I can play one frequency and balance them out to where they put out the same AC volts at that frequency but once I change frequencies the amps are not balanced out anymore, one will be putting out more than the other except for on that one frequency that I set them to. They will be out of sync by 10 AC volts on some frequencies. In strap mode they put out the exact same power at all frequencies but it is slipping in and out of protect. What is going on? The amps are powering 2 HD3 15's, wired to a 1 ohm load each, HU is a Kenwood KDC-X891 and I also have a Rockford PA2 eq. Could any of this be throwing the amps off? I would love to keep them strapped but I do not want to fry them, when I called Greg he said I would have to open them up and cut 2 resistors on the board of each, but he never called me back telling me which ones to cut. Can anyone help me? Please!!!!!!!!!

yeah

did research the amp is not where I need to look for DCR but I still could not find a formula to find the DCR. My bad about the amp part.

How do I find the DCR of an amp?

voltage stays around 12.5-13v

System consists of 2 US Amps MD3D's, 2 AQ HD3's and a Kenwood KDC-X891. Alright I will be playing my system bumping it hard and all of a sudden my bass will cut out. I do not think it is the HU because the mids and highs continue to work. The bass will come back on when I turn the volume down or if I leave it playing for a few seconds. I do have electrical upgrades: 220A alt, 1100A batt under the hood, big 3 done, and 3 Deka Intimidator 9A31's in the back. Why is my bass cutting out. FYI the HU does have a ground problem meaning that when I play a CD I have turn on noise and a thump when changing tracks, none of these noises occur when I listen to the radio or my USB source. So once again why is my bass cutting out.

when i remove the rcas or disconnect the subs the noise goes away. I believe it is a problem with the HU.

I am having noise issues when I start my truck and whenever I change tracks on my HU. I have a Kenwood KDC-X891 and whenever I start my truck I have like a humming, pulsing noise through my subs, and whenever I change tracks I get a little thump through my subs. However, this only happens whenever I am playing a CD. Whenever I am changing radio stations I do not have any noise, and if I start my truck with the radio on there is no noise. I do not have any noise whenever I use the USB port either. I can hook up a flash drive and flip through all those tracks without one thump and start my truck with it in this function without any noise, but once I switch the source to CD, while the radio is reading the CD, it has that pulsing, humming noise coming from the subs, and if I change the track while listening to a CD I get a thump through my subs. Why do I have these noise issues when the source is on CD. I can listen to the radio and my USB noise free but once I switch to CD it makes noise, it is only while the CD is reading, when the music starts to play the noise goes away, and when I change tracks. I also have a turn off thump but that happens in all sources and that is tolerable. What can I do to make it so that I do not have noise while listening to a CD? Sorry for the long post.

I have the new models with the MLT and I have them linked the way it says to in the manual.

I have 2 US Amps Md3's strapped. My question is will both of the amps be putting out AC Voltage or just the master? I went out there today and on music my master was putting out AC volts but my slave was not putting out any AC volts. Both of my subs work and they are wired seperate so both amps are working but the slave is not reading any AC voltage.

So the older MD3's the model that was not like the AX line actually puts out more power? I thought that the newer line was supposed to be of better quality and a better performer. Also does anyone have any experience with the 2007 MD3's, the reason I ask is cause I have 2 of them and since I installed them I am having turn on and off noises. I have also installed a new HU a Kenwood KDC-X891 so I do not know what is causing the problems but I have heard that the new MD3's have had issues with noises.

There are no Termlabs in town I live in Pensacola, FL but the best shop in town uses a Gold-Line SPL 162, which they said that was calibrated to be within 1db of the B&K spl meters. I do not know anything about these meters so I am asking you guys how accurate they are, this shop sells US Amps and RE Audio, Critical Mass and other high quality brands so I figured that the Gold-Line SPL meter would also be high quality since that is how they deal with high quality equipment. Now for the results: Vehicle: 2004 Dodge Durango HU: Kenwood KDC-X891 Subs: 2 AQ 15" HD3's Sub amps: 2 US Amps MD3D's, strapped(2007 models) Song played: Walk it Out SPL score: 151.7 db sealed up on dash. Tell me what you experienced competitors think, is this a fairly accurate score or should I not take it too serious? Note that this was my average on music in a daily driver setup, the enclosure is an 8 net cube ported enclosure tuned to 40hz. Let me know what you guys think

Does the 2007 put out as much as the 2006? I was under the impression that they made some upgrades to the 2007 models, that they were more like the AX line.

no other experiences with these amps?

Really that is odd because I have checked with other people, competitors from termpro.com that said they are very solid amps. John Carr is running 3 GD-6001's on 6 of the SPL 15's and is averaging 160+db's.

If not that good name some amps that are in the same price and power range.

Are they any good? The ones in question are the GD-6001 and AP-3001. Do they do rated power? How durable are they? How is the build quality and reliabity? I know that the GD-6001 is CEA Compliant so it should do rated if not more but I am worried about the quality of the amps. I want first hand experience not what people have heard. Thanks in advance for the feedback.

I have 2 of them strapped powering my AQ HD3 15's. I am running them off of a Kenwood KDC-X891 HU. The only problem I am having is when I start my truck I get noise through my subwoofers it is more audible when I first start my truck and when the HU is loading the CD. Then it tones down a little bit once the cd starts to play I can not hear the noise anymore because my subs are playing the music, but then when I turn my truck off I have a turn off thump. Is this something to do with the HU or the amps? I did have 2 Viper 1200's strapped before the MD3's and I was running an Eclipse CD5435 HU and I did not have any turn on or turn off noise. Since then the Eclipse HU's RCA's fried so I had to send it in for repair and picked up the Kenwood and I upgraded my power to the 2 MD3's strapped. When playing they put out a good amount of clean power more than RMS so I can't complain about that but I do have noise when I turn on the truck and a thump when I turn it off. What could I do to stop these noises? I am using the same ground so I know it can't be that it was a direct swap out of HU and amps. So what could be causing this and how can I fix it. I heard I can use a delay but I have not been able to find any that would cancel out turn on and off noises, If anyone can recommend one please do or if you think it is something else let me know. I want to get this taken care of.

Yes I saw that thread but that is just basic ratings I was wanting to know real world test results, as everyone knows if you just go by specs then you can get some really cheap 3000RMS Boss Amps

And is the RMS still going to be around 750RMS or with the improvements will it be able to take more?

Any chance of these coming in 15" models?

no test results? at all

Has anyone benched one yet to see how much power they put out? I am wanting to know how much continuous power they have been tested to put out at a 1 ohm load, before clipping, at what voltage did it put out that power, what THD, etc. I just want to hear from some people that have actually tested them

Need more info on the MD3D that was tested. I want to know if it was the 05/06 models or the new 07 models that are more like the AX line. And as stated before what was the resistance and what voltage did the MD3D put 2kw's out at? Was this Max power or RMS? And I am assuming this is all it could push before clipping. And as Rasta4life said what are those specs that he asked for? Come on I know someone knows something.