Schmuck

What load and at what voltage did the MD3 do 2kw's? Also was that the 05/06 model or the 07 model, and was that max power or RMS?

I know this thread is about the X10 and 12 but when can I expect to hear anything from the Nightshade series woofers. Those look like some beasts and being sundown I know they are quality, this might have already been discussed did not feel like reading other posts, and can you guesstimate a price on the Nightshade 15" Dual 2? And also ae these geared towards SQ, SPL, or daily pounding, and what amout of power are they going to be able to take daily when all is done? Very interested in the Nightshades when you get everything worked out.

I might be able to do 14" in height and the rest of the measurements the same

that takes care of the turn off thump but what about the turn on noise?

can anyone recommend a good amp relay with a few second delay to cancel out the noise I get when I start when truck and the thump I get when I turn it off?

Now that they are strapped each sub sees the same amount of power on every frequency. That was impossible to achieve with them working individually

No I am using a Kenwood KDC-X891 HU not factory. However I have heard that a line converter can help tone this down. But I talked to Greg at US Amps and he said that it was normal with the amps being strapped so I guess I am just going to have to live with a little turn on and off noise. He said there was nothing I could do besides unstap the amps in which I have to tune both which is a pain in the ass, that is how it was wired before and the did not want to balance out, one sub was getting more power than the other depending on the frequencies.

Sqguyib that is exactly what is happening in my case. I get some noise through the sub when the amps come on and a little thump when the amps turn off. What would be good to use to remedy this. It is not hurting anything it is just a tad bit annoying.

Yeah I just notice that does not give me enough space. I can do 12" H 39" W and 20". Any suggestions?

Do I need to turn the sub sonic filter and LPF all the way down while setting my gains? And yes I have to use the multimeter method.

It will house 2 RF P212d4's. Not the new black models the older ones with the removable magnet cover. I would be able to design one but I do not have the manual and rockford's website does not either. It is going in a Scion TC so I am going to build it to specs which is 1.75 cubes per sub. Tuning anywhere from 35-40hz. I will be powering them with a Diamond D3 400.1. Height cannot be more than 12", W cannot be more than 40", and D cannot be more than 16". Someone please design me a good ported box for these woofers to these specs. Thanks.

I have read the amp setting tutorial on CA.com and it says to play a 60hz tone and set your gains to the AC voltage for your RMS. My question is wouldn't it be better to set the gains based on your box tuning because the amp puts out more power near box tuning to avoid clipping or would you still use a 60 hz tone? Like my box is tuned to 40 hz wouldn' it be better to tune my system with a 40hz test tone? Correct me if I am wrong, please and since I listen to rap I should use a -3db tone right? And just wondering does anybody know what db tones are used on Bass Mekanik Quad Maximus? Could I use that to set my gains safely?

It does not do it when I start the truck, however I do have a little bit of noise through my subs when I first start the truck and no music is playing so I still think I might have a grounding issue somewhere, probably with my HU.

no it is nothing really loud just a little thump when I turn the truck off and the amps turn off. So I do not think I need to worry about it. I checked my ground and it is secure and I do not have any voltage problems so it is probably just the amps turning off.

If not a bad ground what could it be? I have heard that the MD3's have been known to have these type of problems, could it just be the amps?

That what I was thinking too. I guess I will have to check all the grounds and see what happens

Do I have to worry about it damaging anything? The more I think about it the more I think it is a grounding issue, probably with my HU. As long as it does not damage anything I can probably turn my HU off before the truck and cancel it out.

What type of relay? I have a Stinger 200 amp relay for my batteries what type of relay would I use for this situation?

Why is this happening? I am running 2 MD3's strapped on 2 HD3 15's, an amp on each sub, and it sounds good but everytime I turn my truck off the subs pop, not like distortion pop but just not a quiet turn off. Is there anything I can do to make it a quiet turn off. It does this with the volume on 0, the shop that was able to strap my amps properly told me that it is normal with large systems. Is this true or is there something that I can do to make it turn off quiet? Is it anything that I need to worry about, is it damaging to the equipment? And my HU is a Kenwood KDC-X891 if that makes a difference. Pretty much what could be causing this? And do I need to worry about it?

2000@1ohm

Will these amps do rated power? I have heard mixed reviews about the power they put out some say they will do the power plus some and others say that they will not make power. Also how is the build quality I have heard that they have went downhill compared to their older amps. And if they do rated power at what voltage do they achieve it, I am assuming 14.4 which I will never see my truck idles at 13.8 and runs at 14-14.2 at 2000 RPMs also how efficient are they? Pretty much are they worth the money or are there better built amps that do more power for the money?

yeah they did not even look at the manual and the wiring is nothing like that. And the amp was still working after that screw up. I took it back to the shop and they had one amp putting out 15VAC and one putting out 9VAC. So I tried to balance them out, by the time I got them balanced to one frequency the master popped the fuses. So I did not fry the amp unless having a multimeter in the speaker terminals to set gains would fry it.

does anyone know what the problem could be? MLT is like strapping amps isn't it so I should only have to set the master and the slave will be in sync with it. My amps were never in sync and what caused it to blow it was not when I took the speaker wire out, that blew the RCA's on the back of my HU which has been replaced. Why did my amp take a dump? And why have they never been in sync. Do I need to link them with speaker wire, I know some amps are strapped that way, and could it be the way my RCA's are? I need feedback for when I get another amp this way it gets done right.

no the amp was working after that. They were never in sync though. I took them to a shop that did not even look at the install manual and linked them how they wanted to. They were using all of the RCA's on the master amp and the 2 in RCA's on the slave amp.I took a look at the install manual and that is not how they are supposed to be linked. I put the RCA's how they were supposed to be but it did not change anything. The master amp fried when I was trying to balance out the gains it was putting out 44VAC and the fuses just popped. The subs were not hooked up. So I am wondering if it is the way that they were linked together because I know that the amp can do 44VAC all day long, or should be able to. I was reading about people having problems with sundown's because they were not strapped the right way I was wondering if that was the case here. Because how I understand MLT is suppose to let you set the master and not worry about the slave settings like strapping. Well these amps were never in sync I got them to where would be doing them same at a frequency but once that frequency changed one amp would push more than the other. To me there is no point in linking them if I still have to set both gains. So I tried to set the RCA's as standalone amps but the were still working as linked amps. Hell my 1 amp is blown now and I do not have my sub hooked up to it yet somehow that sub is still seeing power, and the wires to that sub are covered with wire nuts. So no I did not fry my amp however it is fried I am trying to figure out why. The one that was designated slave still works and is putting out AC voltage not DC, the other is not putting out chit.

also do I need to run any speaker wire from one amp to the other to link them?