jbob

Seriously dude, just do home audio until you get a car.

You'd want a dual 2 sub with that Sundown amp.

Those cars are easy to put speakers in, I would know I've had several. You can actually reuse the plastic mount and make a 6x8 > 6.5 adapter to mount right on to it. You could then make it a little tougher with maybe some modeling clay or something. Another option would be to build new spacers to replace the factory plastic if you have the tools and skills.

Don't most of the surge protectors have equipment guarantees, though I imagine they'd find ways out of it.

Thanks for the comments. I competed for the first time yesterday at a local area db drag. Dominated Street A mini (and could have taken Street A too). Highest score was a 140.8 and my last run for the final was a 140.6, peak at 38hz I used the song Late Night Tip for all my runs, and didn't have anyone holding the hatch or the doors tight which I should have. I probably could have broke 141.

Car: 2005 Dodge Magnum Electrical: Stock Amp: Sundown 1500D Sub: 12" Fi Q d2 w/ BP power Box: ~2.2 at ~33hz Mic: TL Song: Late Night top Score: 140.8 at 38hz.

I have a cheap Lanzar block with volt gauge and it auto shut off. Call Knu and see what they say.

I'll warn you right now $400 will not get you very far.

Ok, so it's not exactly a build log (and not sure if this is the right place) because I just don't get around to taking pictures when I'm working, but I thought I'd at least post a couple pictures and a list of what I have, as well as a brief review of the products I used. So what we have here is a 2005 Dodge Magnum R/T AWD. Yeah, it's got a Hemi. It's pretty loaded with nav and heated seats and some other goodies. With the navigation system comes a Boston 6 speaker system, which honestly is not too bad, decent midbass/midrange, bass isn't bad, highs are a little weak. I kept the factory head unit in place. The factory nav system is a 6 disc mp3 changer and actually a pretty nice setup. That feeds into an amp that has a volume dependant DSP for the 6 speakers. Tapping into the signal wires before the amp gives you a flat signal (and interestingly, when connected to the amp is fixed level, but when disconnected is variable, how convenient) which is fed into a RF 3sixty.2. I plan on also buying a Zune and making a custom dock for it to feed directly into the 3sixty's aux in. The one disadvantage of where I tapped is disconnecting the amp kills the nav voice guidance (which for me is a non issue since I never use the nav anyway). The 3sixty feeds a pair of Sundown 100.2's actively crossed over and Sundown 1500d. I went with a pair of 100.2 instead of a 100.4 because they were on sale at the time, the small power difference isn't a big deal for me (but it is nice ). The Sundowns feed a pair of Seas neo textiles mounted in the factory locations in the dash and a pair of Mach 5 MLI65 mids in the doors. The doors could use a little work but the car is pretty well built and will not require much deadening and treatment when I get to it. I plan on toying with different drivers in the future like maybe some 8's in the doors and some nice high playing 3.5"-4" midranges in the front. The substage is handled by a Fi Q 12 D2 with BP option in a little over 2 cubes at about 33hz. I only have some very minimal EQ work done by ear so far, but am pretty happy with it as it sits. I do need to do a little time alignment and level work on the fronts, but it is definately pretty nice as is. I have the gain set so I can turn the remote almost all the way done and it blends VERY nicely with the frontstage, but I can also crank it up and get pretty damn loud too. There's a local area competition this Saturday I plan on going to for the hell of it to see what I can hit. I've only had this stuff in for a couple weeks but I'll give my impressions so far. There really isn't much to say about the Sundowns that hasn't already been said, you just can't beat the value they offer. The same goes for the Q. I really need an oscope so I know how much power I'm really sending to this thing because as it is I can probably crank the gain even more. The tweets sound nice even bouncing off the windshield and the mids sound great. I'll get some pics under the false floor when I remember. One of the key points with the hatch area is I can very quickly get to the spare tire. The false floor easily lifts out and then the entire amp board is not actually mounted down, but with three amps on it it's not going anywhere. Electrical is still completely stock, included the crappy factory grounds. I have alternator whine and I did some trouble shooting and am hoping upgrading the grounds will help, I haven't tracked it anywhere in the signal chain. With the bass all the way up the voltage doesn't go too much below the 13s. I'll probably go to a Deka or Powermaster, a group 31 should fit. Well, that was alot of typing for so few pics, but oh well.

Knukonceptz 100ft 12ga is $50 Partsexpress is very reasonable on shipping I think. I've never ordered anything really huge and heavy, but my shipping is usually around $12ish to MN

I don't seem them being as useful as a big vented box. From what I've heard passive radiator's aren't a great choice for vehicles because of the whole constantly moving thing, that's great if it worked in a pickup but I think you're better off using the space you have for a conventional sub.

I don't think you're gonna get much cheaper ampage than these: http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductCart/pc...?idCategory=125 If it was me I'd do some MJ18's which i've heard actually go pretty high fairly well, and then either a bunch of decent 6.5 coax's or some 2 way set up with some of the dayton driver's mentioned already, otherwise some pro drivers with horn tweets.

....Maybe it should be fuel powered

That wouldn't have an alternator. I think what you're thinking of is the charger which is the ac/dc converter to plug it in. With lots of accessories I would be somewhat concerned about cutting into the runtime. Alternatively you could upgrade the drive batteries for more runtime and the extra power. The smaller Powermasters are pretty reasonably priced.....Or you could put a 16v so he can do burnouts.

I've had my two 100.2's in for a couple weeks and my 1500 I put in yesterday. My 100.2 on my mids gets the hottest, but nowhere near burning, the 100.2 on the tweets is overkill for me so it doesn't even get lukewarm, and the 1500d so far hasn't been hotter than the mid amp and I've been playing it fairly hard so far, thought it hasn't been for more than 30-40 minutes at once so far. edit- the 100.2's are the old heat sink and thr 1500 is the new heatsink

Of course it's a canadian word... I've only seen about 2 episodes of TPB, I gotta watch more, I remember the ones I saw they were stealing grills and Bubbles ended up missing a Rush concert.

Pretty sure thats the funniest word I've ever heard. edit...hmm swear filter

I'm looking at getting a Deka 9A31 (actually the O'reilly branded one that's the same thing). For my Dodge Magnum. The Magnum has the battery in the rear and I do not have a suitable place to run a second battery so I want a battery I can run alone, no other starting battery. Will the 9A31 handle being a daily driver? I came across some truck/bus forum that mentioned that they did not have good luck with them. In addition to being the starting battery it will be running a pair of Sundown 100.2's and a Sundown 1500d and I have the factory 160 amp alternator. Will there be any foreseeable problems with this setup? (I live in Minnesota so the winters can get brutal). and if the single battery cannot handle the system I can make room for another smaller battery, but I want to stay semi-stealth. Going with a powermaster 3100 would be a possibility as well, but that costs more money of course.

crossovers cost money too...

pics or it didn't happen

while $469 is out of my price range, it may also be a worthwhile investment, as i could use it for a long time and still get some great photos. and while i realize that its not about megapixels (necessarily), i definitely do not want to see pixelation (sp?)(even a word?) in my photos, as that is what i love about film. i have no experience with a digital SLR camera, so would that be an issue? Well, with 6.1 MP you'd probably notice pixelation...if you print at 20x30. If you don't want to print huge, 6.1 is plenty. You could also go with something like a used rebel xt from bh for $350. The 2 megapixel difference isn't really as big as it sounds, but it is a nice camera, I've had mine for like 3 years now I think. If you go film I'd recommend sticking to newer Canons (with EF lenses) or Nikon because they're the two most popular brands and then you can use your lenses on a digital down the road.

Oh ya, also right here at the store, which only has Sundown amps right now... not that that's a bad thing

I've ordered quite a bit from Woofers. I've had a couple times where they didn't update their site to show out of stock, but I've always gotten a phone call right away and they suggest substitutes if you want something right away.

Stop what you're doing and thoroughly read the manual on how the BR terminals work before you wreck something. I'm pretty sure you're doing it wrong from what I'm reading.