Aaron Clinton

Ryan is right, probably for what you want the SX might be the way to go. I prefer the IDMAX personally.

Not sure if your PM box is full but here is the answer to your questions: Both are very capable subs. Mags are NOT 2x as good as RL-ps. A sub is only good if it is the right one for your application. For example, an IDQ is a very good sub, but not good for a buyer that wants to run 3000 watts, and visa versa an Orion H2 is a good sub but not good for the buyer if they only have 200 watts, etc... Anyway, from my knowledge there has yet to be a disappointed customer for either the RL-p or the MAG. Both have great sound quality if put in the right box and so on. For your other questions, if all things being equal (power and such) two RL-p 15's are probably going to be louder over one MAG due to double the cone advantage. And there is no such thing as better SQL, in the correct install both can get loud and sound very good doing it. I have tested both subs and I like both of them, but each has their advantages and disadvantages. There is a very high possibility that (once again if installed properly) you are not going to hear all that much of a difference in SQ. You need to figure out if you want more output now or later? There is that MAG SA deal I believe.

Maybe! We'll have to play it by ear as I've got alot going on. Thanks, Nick there is plenty of time between now and the next issue And just so you know...it's Mr. Incriminator

do not change the over all diameter of what you have now the ones you found on ebay are very nice, but I do not know the offset of those

I just looked at thes on millionbuy, and I really like the looks but that does not mean anything about the amp. I am cursious if they will be or are CEA2006 rated.

Maybe, but I doubt it. Here's why: 1 component set => x db 2 component set => x+3db 4 component set => x+6db That is assuming no cancellation. Since it is fairly easy to find horns that are more than 6db more sensitive than component tweeters, I'd still go with horns. I also think that even with just say the 880's eq that a set of horns will sound better than 4 sets of component tweeters together. They will definetely have a much easier stage to setup. I agree with sean on this, with all that power behind you, it will probably need something as strong as some good ID horns to keep up

is it the same as my 8053?

Maybe! We'll have to play it by ear as I've got alot going on. Thanks, Nick there is plenty of time between now and the next issue

I have some monster MBQ QSD crossovers if you want them pm me some details...i don't have xovers for my rmb8's..and the ss's are only two way... of course my h/u is setup for an active 3 way, 2 way or a few other options..but i dunno if i wanna go active when passive is so much easier..lol.. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee I think I took pictures of them during one of the SWVA meets, I would like to keep them but I have nothing to put them in but they would be hard to replace

looks ban worthy to me

as usual, excellent work, what is going in there?

how is the quality? I have never used them before

from my experience with the 300E and the 300ce, don't do too much to the motor and for your car if you fell you must get wheels, do not go larger than 17" trust me, I have 18's and the tires are very very skinny and not the best for daily driving, great for high speed highway romps, the best idea would be to find some used 17" stock rims from another MB that someone is selling because they got aftermarket rims, this is a good idea because: 1. the bolt pattern should be similar, 2. less expensive than brand new wheels 3. if your not going to sink money into the car, this is a cheaper upgrade, I was very tempted to do a very very mild body kit, but my car rests too low as it is, I am not going to want to have to keep patching fiber glass. There are a few kits for your car, but I personally would save the money for keeping the car in top condition and running a good clean audio system. I swear by Bilstien shocks, and they will make a big difference over stock for ride and handling. Just trying to give some ideas.

I have been told do it right the first time and do the conversion

it should help bump traffic here

for the battery question, people are going to have different opinions, some people stick with the 2150's and others will stand by the 2400's

PM tirefryr on here, he knows the sub well and has already done a few trunk installs with them

I have some monster MBQ QSD crossovers if you want them

talk to steve, i believe he owns both amplifers

bump for me, leave it

How are they set up? Active or passive? keep in mind my car is somewhat smaller than my truck