Aaron Clinton

Active 2-way with Full Range driver for the top end? This is not meant to be a pick my driver for me topic. My new dilemma is because of Adrian, he put the full range bug in my ear and I am starting to question my plans. I am not as versed in full range drivers as many others are on this board, so why not use the knowledge base. Setting: car - Mazda Protege5 wagon original front stage plans - Bravox CF603CF's power - many to choose from, so not an issue mounting location - FR's or mid/tweet would have to be at the base of the A-pillars (small manual car with no real room in the foot wells) Now where I am questioning my plans is that I have not had a passive set up in years, but this is supposed to be one of the premier offerings out there. Would be fun to put 200+ watts a side on the Bravox and say I have a $1200+ front stage and a $0 sub set up. I have been happy with 2-way active for a while now, and have the HU's to do it no problem. If I try this approach and were to go active it would be with a pair of AA Carbon's and a quality FR 2" - 3" driver. The advantages on the surface to switch to this approach; much cheaper, much less to mount and aim, less fiber glass work, active control of course, and no massive crossover to hide. I am not forced to go with a full range, but I am aiming for another top tier front stage again. The new TB's look interesting for sure. I do still have my SEAS neo textile tweets if I were to go a more standard 2-way active route. Don gave me a nice link to read: http://www.mobilesoundscience.com/f6/augmented-wideband-approach-car-fi-what-why-how-50/, even though I am not a fan of DS-21, it is a good topic on this subject. So the over all point of this topic is to get some feedback on Adrian's approach. This is not me doubting it, it is an effort to make sure it is right for me.

That would be ultra stupid.

How the fuck do you always have something for everything? I have always had some weird thing with very quick, but abstract associations between things. Should read drafts of any major paper I wrote in the past. Made total sense to me when putting it down, but a second read showed numerous occasions where there is not a clear defined segway from one thought to the next. Read like there were too many gears turning at once and the singular goal or focus was not established.

:jump: :jump: I got so excited when I got the phone call. I go in on Tuesday, they said plan the whole day to stay there. It is a union job, I am not much for unions after seeing how the Mechanics for Northwest got rapped by theirs, but hell, some unions actually work to make better environments for the employees. Starting pay is decent, more then what I was making and I will also be able to work on getting my apprentice and journeyman electrician stuff out of the way. Good luck man, I got a good feeling.

:jump: :jump:

No need to do this when all he needs to do is PM me. Done.

Jay, You really are in a win win situation. All three drivers are excellent choices, they have their advantages. The Q has the most output potential, the SSD is an awesome deal, and the Icon slots right between the two. Both Argent and Khaotik can build enclosures that will work great with any of these drivers you are looking at.

All options listed are very nice and all will get it done. The Q has the Xmax advantage and the pair of Dcon's/X's have the cone advantage. But is all depends on your needs. Edit: And welcome to SSA.

Supposed to run circles around the ZR-1 for less $$$. And looks like a fwd turd. Sure I am all for fast, but a car should stir the soul in that price range as well. If the only goal is to run circles around the ZR-1, but a 3 yr old Elise for $25k and spend $5k on some forced induction and you'll kill them both. And a new transmission with taller gearing.

I HATE people with extremely bright headlights (The HID's).. especially on raised trucks... My car is low so i get these assholes headlights straight in my face and i hate it.. even when my windows are tinted at 20% Same here. My last Mustang was the worst as it was so low, I was even in direct line with several normal vehicles. It's even worse when they also have fog lights. I use the brightest I can find on my Expy. I also however use yellowish tinted lights. You can look directly at the lights on my truck and even though they are bright they don't cause pail like the cooler blue lights. I really want HID off road lights, and I NEED new headlights as mine look like milk now. I won't change though unless I can get a warmer light though. Eff HID, go LED Light bar. That's my next project. I don't want to spend $1k on a 40 inch light bar...plus I'll be able to build any width I want, any intensity, pattern etc etc. Probably won't look as nice but should perform close. Here is the one Rigid Industries makes: Your's better be red and make a "swish swish" sound.

We have had good luck with Mountaineers in our family, except the 1st gen had some transmission issues. The 4Runner should be the most trusty, though not great on power or MPG.

Uh oh.

Not ready just yet, but getting close, here is some initial info: http://www.homeaudioforum.net/topic/246-haf-welcomes-blue-print-audio

Added.

I don't know about the pedobear

Welcome back, it has been a few years. Your truck was quite loud when I last hear it.

Supposed to run circles around the ZR-1 for less $$$.