Truconcept

Kind of annoying really. The mounting of this amp is impossible with my drill because the screws go so far down in the hole Im gonna have to use a screwdriver The negative input to the tweeter had the wrong size connector for the crossover It was small while the crossover had all large outputs was too small to connect to crossover i was really hoping to not have any small issues when i went with RF

3200 watts bridged at 1ohm should be enough?

sounds like the perfect budget for a colossus as i mentioned before they are 2 channels btw

i know you seem stuck on keeping your box but thats just a bad idea every sub has its own specs and should have its own box your port tune might be ideal for your kickers but not for some sundowns a different box design might get you the sound your looking for from the kickers as for your subwoofer choices i would pick incriminators i dont like how long you have to wait to fully break in sundowns

im not that loud lol

The problem is actually the alternator thanks guys I have put my old alt back in and now rest comfortably at 14.4 Idk if the h/o alt is bad at low rpm, as mentioned either way 13.2 idle without music at a stop sign is no good 4 me LMAO! p.s- yea i took the fuses out to eliminate them as the possible cause of the drop

Im starting to think about putting the factory alternator back in I was always 14.4v idle with no music on I just find it odd theres a drop on the back battery but not on the front maybe i should only worry if it goes under 12v on music?

Hi 99 Oldsmobile Alero Yellow optima up front and one in the rear Powerbastards 220amp alt knu 1/0gauge (+ and -) front to back, big3 as of today. no fuses. problem persists Im getting a drop from 14.4 to as low as 13.2 when I bring the car to a stop Sometimes it stays at 14.4 when I stop but most of time it dont 13.2 is about as low as it gets, its random and sometimes doesnt drop at all I only get this reading from the rear battery I dont have any of my amps connected, no sound, still a drop The rear battery is grounded to the negative in the front I have also tried grounding the rear battery to the point under the seatbelt bolt that i have used before (no luck) The front battery is grounded to some metal thing thats bolted to the side of the engine Im sorry I cant be more specific The mechanics who put my alternator on made that the front batt negative ground They are good so Im gonna assume thats a legit spot When I start the car I get a 15-15.2V reading but Im just assuming thats from the freezing weather reducing resistance Any ideas?

and yes the subs you listed would be a very nice and noticable upgrade from cvr

did you build your own box? you might be missing out if your using a prefab box

Ahem, change your diet and stop banging chancre infested whores. Actual LOL, that made my day I had to go back and check if I did a typo. Seriously, what to change in my diet to help me keep the cold away? I eat fruits and veggies in decent amounts. start taking one a day (vitamins)

win

do not i repeat do not run hifonics at .5ohm lulz

off topic but, the high current fuse holder i mentioned i was purchasing has failed after 2 days it gets very warms after 30 minutes causing a 1.5-2V drop, so weird it shoots up and down (14.4-13 ect.)

The brz is known to be very power hungry your might need another 1-2 optimas for 2 brz2400 imo for the price of two brz2400 i would just get a hifonics colossus http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_32990_Hifonics-Colossus.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=productads&gclid=CKbhl_HUnbUCFfRbPAodzwMAGQ This way you dont have to worry about gain matching amps

Thanks alot guys, when I asked him if hes sure theyre not the dx he hung up

Thanks for the input, i like the idea of the ssd but fully loaded+shipping they would cost more than sundown sa it seems im paying more for not much more boom if im going to go over budget, im going fiQ for the love of xmax im pondering this offer on craigslist ive made a thread to help identify the subs and i would appreciate any help more explanations inside

Im looking into buying two of these american bass 12's for $400 The guy says they are D4 HD series Problem is: american bass dont make the hd in d4 (idk about the past) Im trying to see what kind of sub it really is, if its the xd thats a good deal any lower series its not a good deal hes going to send a pic of the back of the magnet in a couple hours after work which american bass sub is this? heres a pic he sent me thanks

maybe i should go with 10's? and no they are not strappable, the brz2100 is

oh sorry, i want to have port and sub firing forward I wanna upgrade because the surround on one of them has a small hole that im worried will get much worse when i hook a brz1200 to it I have had them for 3years and they love to overheat and theyre only 14mm xmax all that time ive had them wired @ 2ohm on 1 brz1200 (underpowered) my current box size for the opti's is 34W X 14H X 23D port 3.75in wide / 12inches long it was the first box i ever built and works well 40hz+ i like the idea of (2) 12's over 1 powerful 12 because i believe in cone area over watts

I like that icon you guys recommended but for that price i would go with a fully loaded Q I'm really looking at two sundown SA, whats the opinions on that? $300 w/shipping per sub budget and yes keeping both amps I currently have two lanzar opti 1232D in my car so Idk why u think two 12s wont fit And my max height dimension are 14", why would u say get a 15? lol

ive got the fuses that came with that dual amp kit mentioned above I freaking hope those fuses arent shit too What do you think about connecting the 1/0 gauge i already have if I take the fuse out Tape just doesnt seem safe

Im looking to upgrade my subs, I currently have 2 lanzar opti1232D on 2 hifonics brz1200 Which ssa sub would you pick for those amps? Maybe something else? I like mixtapes and sometimes they come already clipped but idk for a while so they need to be something that can take a little abuse My max trunk dimensions are: 36w X 14H X 22D I have a powerbastards 220 amp alt and 2 yellow top optima, one under hood one back big 3 done Ive been eyeing the fiQ

It is a triple small anl fuse holder Im running (3) 150amp fuses as of today I took it apart after driving a while and it was very warm but not so hot that i couldnt hold the metal part of it I think Im gonna just be like screw a fuse on the alt and pay a shop for a 6ft piece of 1/0 gauge without a fuse The only thing I could do is take the fuse out and electrical tape it.... no. Maybe a shop can do something with the 2 wire pieces i have? I would hate to buy more 1/0 gauge after I have to throw away this $30 fuse holder