F3RR3T

*laughs* No, not really... think I'm going to just go through them all as I get time to get it out of the way. LOL you gotta hate me and love me at the same time

bet your looking forward to testing all 64 of mine also i would like to get 70 so i have some spares just in case

im giving all 64 of mine 330 rms hehe

Jacob now dont forget i get 64 of these suckers

HMM so are 4th orders so prevalent in spl vehicles if its "quieter"?

i just a need a nightshade motor

I need to choose proceesing now i will be using audiocontrol products. my plan was to use the DQXS but i don think i can. the reason i say this is because seeing that im using one 100.4 per door whatever, paremeters i entered into the DQXS would go to all 4 channels on the 100.4 and each channel on the 100.4 needs a different crossover point etc etc. do i basically either need to do active crossovers on each channel. or switch to 4 100.2 amps? or could i do this since the each 100.4 has 4 channels 2 front 2 rear. i could use one 100.4 for both the sundown 8's and the dls mids. and then the other one for the tweets and other mids. ^probably doesnt make any sense

Everything causes cancer in california so whats it matter

Build details Vehicle:1994 gmc extended cab sierra Subs: 2 Sundown Nightshades 18's (dont rape my pm box there is no more for several months) Sub amps: 3000 per sub Amps for active system: 1 100.4 per door Amp for cdt componets (part of alarm): sundown 100.2 electrical: multiple runs 1/0 8 powermaster d3100's and 1 300 amp alt and one 175amp sound deadening 290 sq ft of cascade picture of box amprack and nightshade 18 below I need help selecting drivers and some sort of sound processing. the only drivers ive settled on are the Sundown e8's for upperbass/lower mid-bass frequency's. sound processing i have no idea on. 100.2 will be running a set of 4 inch cdt componets with are part of the alarm and will hardly ever be used with the rest of the audio system. budget i would like to keep 800 ( does not include the amps or sundown 8's) or below cheaper is better but i dont want crap. i was looking at dls stuff put that put me over budget. also in need of a headunit with a pause button and 8v preouts i currently have a denon dct-a1000 on a side note for $30.00 i will design your box make a 3d model and give a cutsheet. if needed i can also build and ship your box(more than $30.00)

WELCOME "FROM" ROE

idk if they are or not thats the baskets my subs will use once there made

need the cutout diameter for a 18" 6-spoke venezuela basket also the overall diameter

I won't have enough left for me after the Team guys get them. I plan to re-build the wall for different size woofers anyhow YAY ME!!

How are you running that much power? What kind of alternator and how many batterys? not hard to run that much power. ill be running 20,000 rms in my daily driver. 6 powermaster d1000 16 volt batts 2 300amp 16volt alts. 6 15" sundown audio nightshades 6 sundown 3000d's

Send me a PM with which item(s) and your address. man if i wasnt already paying on equipment i would be all over that x12

You need a 6.0GPA to be on the team. Study up, we dont want dumb people! Hahaha just jokin! i dont even have a gpa

*didnt read all 7 pages* but something with a high enough frequency range so it could be used as a mid-bass would be extremely cool. any comps or mid-ranges on the drawing board for future release/development

You missed my point you need one for the fronts & sub, one for the rears, another for the other rears. If you insist on doing all that nonsense. I APOLOGIZE ON THAT. i know ill need one for the fronts and sub and another for the rears. the very rears that are on the 100.2 are passive and will only be used when at get togethers (4x4 club) when the rear gate is open. now i just need drivers . preferably something that needs a sealed environment. rubber surround with either metal or the plastic/treated cones. were dealing with alot of moisture in this vehicle

the 3 ways will not need a processor apiece ill try to find the diagram that rf made me but he.

because the channels of my amps will already be setup for active from the processing. so i mine as well just do active in the rear.

hmm so active 3 ways up front. and some active 2 ways in the rear that can be turned off sounds alot better to me. i have some old bass shakers that i could run off the extra 2 channels lmao <i have no clue though. any one have any recommendations for drivers. i was thinking like a 6.5-8 inch mid-bass 4-5.25 mid and then the tweeter. next question i did not order the rf 3sixty's yet. i already have a rf symmetry on hand but i dont think itll do what i want when to rf 3sixty.2's will

i like that idea and would leave more budget for the front 3 ways. 3 way active in the rear 2 way active comps in the rear (that can be turned off when im by myself) or seeing that i already have my amps do the 3 ways in all 4 doors as i was going to do originally but put them on a relay so they can be turned off and on. i think im going to re evaluate my whole system plan

ok seeing that i have the wrong idea going here. would yall be willing to enlighten me about what would sound good in an off-axis setup. i would like to keep 1 driver per door do to my number of passengers and the "show factor"

i dont know what the set "requirements" are drop him an email at [email protected] Good luck