mjmarovi

the brace you showed would be a waste of time IMO. to add some db's try rounding all the corners on the inside of the box. you can do it with poster board, and just use fiberglass resin to put it in, I like that method it's simple and cheap. plus it adds strength to the enclosure, a lot more than those little braces.

Man I wish everyone could understand this. . . I hear over and over how if the gains are not match exactly it will hurt the sub. I have seen first hand more than one time woofers being blown from people trying to run separate amps to separate coils...I would not recommend it, why don't you just get a 1200 rms amp? alpine even has a new m2000 that is 2000 watts at 2 ohms, it would be a good match for the sub, always nice to have a little overhead. and from my learning and experience, it's the slight difference in signal and tone reproduction from amp to amp that causes the destruction, not necessarily the difference in power.

I disagree, and the voice coil will not see the additive power, because they are separate coils. so if you send different signal to them it will break down over time and kill the sub. depending on how bad/how much power will determine how long it will take. I would never ever recommend to anyone to do it, especially someone that doesn't fully understand difference in bridging and parallel/series wiring. and when that guy makes a post about his blown sub asking how it happened, then I will be there to tell him why.

lol banana plugs are going to fix it? please....except for the rare case....local shops crack me up.... def. use the bolts, those plastic cups are such crap.

generally speaking, as you tune lower, you need a larger box for the sub to efficiently reproduce the lower tones. a smaller box tuned higher will generally result in higher SPL. 35 hz is till plenty low to bang most music out there. if you are trying to get a little louder, definitely worth trying out the smaller box

You can run separate amps per coil and separate coils on different channels. only way to run multiple amps to a woofer is to strap the amps, as long as they are strappable. as I said before. it is quite unwise to wire separate coils on the same woofer to separate channels or amplifiers, you will blow your speaker/subwoofer. I don't know where people get off on this idea, and have obviously never actually seen ppl try to do it in person.

I agree with Jay-cee, sounds exactly like what you're looking for. If you are really trying to save money then just match the AQ amp with the AQ woofer. the BTL is a great sub, but it is out of your price range and to really power it to it's potential is going to cost another 5-600 dollars in electrical upgrades. I think all audioque would suit your needs, and for a few more dollars an xcon matched with a 1500d would be a little upgrade.

you need to host them somewhere, like photobucket, then put the link in where the img icon is just above where you type in your message it has the little polaroid looking picture on it

thanks will keep in mind

I wanna see a 150! lol soo close, I'm sure you can squeeze it out somewhere

I just explained why that doesn't matter. the tinsel leads connect the speaker wire (amplifier) to the voice coil. the resistance on the voice doesn't go away when it is not wired to an amplifier, therefore wouldn't go away just cause a tinsel lead isn't there. understand?

you already have the amp, so why not use the extremely clean power that it will be. just saying, there amps at 1/3 the cost that will do the same, and sound the same on a BTL when your beatin down the street.

realistically I won't want to spend more than 80-90 a piece on the 8's, and no more than 60-70 a piece on the 6 1/2's. if it's slightly more or less, that's fine, but right now looking for something in that price range. and yeh, if I was to experiment with something along same price as hybrids, I would choose scanspeak, or dynaudio...or DLS...or rainbow....many others, yeh yeh yeh but just naming those few. thanks for moving the post BTW I did feel bad for jacking that thread. I have looked at those peerless before, I will most likely try their 8's, and I know it's odd, but want to try something different for the 6 1/2's. After system is done, I will save up for L8's and L6's from hybrid probably next summer, but until then figure I will try a few others. some of what I've tried... focal polk CDT mb quart hertz alpine

look at the diagram, how many times do I have to say do not run separate coils to separate channels? wire in series as the diagram shows, then you will have one positive and one negative wire going from the subwoofer to the amplifier. your amplifier will indicate where the bridged positive (+) and negative (-) are. now so that you don't get confused when you see it, the indication on the amp will have one of the positives from one of the channels and one of the negatives from the other channel. you just need the amp to indicate which. got it? if you have the manual to the amp it will have a picture for you, that's one of the perks for spending 2 grand on a 2-channel amp LOL. (sorry but c'mon great amp but really a waste for what you're using it for)

focal makes a great product, their woofers are top notch, nothing I would ever I guess I would see in one of your setup though! lol their mids/highs are a bit too bright for my tastes, but clear nonetheless, I'm with M5 I like their woofers better, their home theater stuff is kick-ass too!! get the polyglass woofers, their entire access line is good, but it is def. clear it is their entry-level line. I have ran polyglass mids/highs, and access mid/highs, and heard their utopia, yeh the 5k set in person, nothing special btw, but polyglass series is way better than access series. their best line, even better than the utopias is the k2power series. that's what really makes the focal name

wire one of the pos (+) terminals on the subwoofer's voice coil to the (-) neg. on the other coil. then wire the pos. on the coil that has its neg. going to the other coil to the amplifier's positive. and wire the neg. on the voice coil whose positive is going to the other coils neg. to the neg. on the amp. yes, only one pos. and one neg. going to the amplifier in the designated "bridged" pos. and neg. location. understand? here's a diagram http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp~Q~1~I~12 the second diagram, the one for the 2 ohm load is how you want to do it.

did you not read my above post? YOU CANNOT run two coils to two channels, you will kill the sub. with that amp, the zapco 9.0 you have one choice, dual 1 ohm sub, wire in series, NOT PARALLEL to 2 ohms. you cannot wire coils on a sub separately, doesn't work that way!! alright man?

oh, another good idea would be to do a single 15 ported. you do already have Q's, and especially if you have the BP power option, a single Q 15 should handle that 1500 watts all day long.

Sundown SA-12, matches nicely for your power and sundowns do pretty well in smaller enclosures. 39 hz is on the high side of tuning though, I thought this was a daily streat-beater?

2200 rms at 2 ohm bridged..... http://www.zapco.com/prod/comp_prods/c2k90Frame.htm unless I missed something?

X2 Sundown Audio- Nightshade Fi- BTL Ascendant Audio- Mayhem SSA-Xcon Soundstream-XXX RE-XXX Hertz- SPL Monster Treo-SSX Incriminator audio-Death Penalty DC audio- Lvl 5's all of the above subwoofer lines are probably about the best in the bizz. not all are the same, as some are closer to only handling 3kw, and others much much more, but it does give you a list to check out what else is out there, and kinda what the best out there is. at least in IMO. what kind of budget are you looking at, and amp, etc...not sure what electrical you have, or plan on either, but all these things matter.

DO NOT I repeat DO NOT !! ever run separate runs of speaker wire to different coils on the same sub. which means, you don't run a different amp on each coil, and you don't use separate channels from the same amp on different coils. you need to get a dual 1 ohm sub, and wire it in series to 2 ohm and bridge it on the amplifier. yes, people have been known to run more than one amp on a single woofer, but that is when the amplifiers are strappable, there for they work together as one amplifier, and the wiring is a little different. you don't need to worry about that though, just bridge your amp in series to a dual 1 ohm BTL. nice choice of equipment though, hope you have the electrical to back it up!

Better use several layers of fiberglass as this should be one quite loud build. going from sealed in the back of an SUV to ported closer to the windshield, your new setup if done right will most likely be louder. I would put the woofers right next to each other on one side of the enclosure, and put the amps on the other side. it will help output. sounds like no problem putting aeroports on top, so I would let them stick out as much as you can without looking silly, like maybe to the top of the back seat or something. do you need help designing the box, or can you handle that? if you use 4 aeroports, 4" diameter, and make them 25" in length, let 8" of them stick out of the box, and that would give you a tuning of 33hz. that's assuming the 60x23x7.5x11 dimensions with 1" thick MDF. which would result in 4.4cuft after port and displacement, tuned to 33hz. subs forward, port up, that should wang pretty hard. oh and throwing a couple pieces of 2x4's in there for bracing probably wouldn't be a bad idea.

the 8's are so that I can turn everything else off and play just the three way set for SQ stuff, the 6 1/2's are really just to add volume when I'm doing demos and cranking it out, I need both drivers to play the above frequencies, but I don't plan on them actually all playing at the same time with over-lapping frequencies. I mean I'm sure I'll play around and see what happens, but I'm not counting on doing that. I will say I had two pair of 6 1/2's in my doors before, with 8's in the floor in front of the front seats, and they played same frequencies between ~60 up to 200, and I noticed no cancellation, sounded great, but now all in the doors together may be different story.... oh btw, I'm not necessarily looking for budget budget, I mean hybrids are 400 a pair for the 6's, and I do plan on getting them, just not in any hurry, anything less than 100 bucks a speaker to me is a great price!