mjmarovi

either way works pretty well, o-scopes are def. more expensive but yes I would say they are the 1st choice. nothing wrong with a DMM tho. on another note tho, there is a difference between "warm" and "hot" warm isn't bad, especially after an hour. but if it's "hot" as in feels like when you put your hand under hot running water, then that's not good. you usually get a warning smell.

I hope everyone that sees this gets the true impressiveness of this thread. All these amps far succeeded their ratings, and at ~12 volts over 1 ohm. when ratings are 14.4v at 1 ohm. also, like to see what impedance rise I can expect from the SA-12's, lol I plan on running 4 myself! (of course my box is different)

only thing you can really do is check every wire and its connection. there is no movement from woofer at all? I mean no vibration or anything? if so sounds like signal stops at the amp, and you could have a problem with your amp.

Jacob, sent you an e-mail regarding one of these, I know your busy, I can appreciate that, any good word on these big dogs?

can't you get a different cone/dustcap, and do the tinsel leads a little different for the tens? just not sure how costly it is to order completely new stuff, that motor looks sick on there tho

it weighs between 25-27 lbs. should find out sometime today/this morning exactly how much

good answer, thanks!

I think it's cool in the aspect of the potential these types of designs can have, but the mounting depth is a little ridiculous. just curious, what type of commercial application could this be used in?

makes sense, just wasn't really sure what all you guys did in the factory. thanks nick! Fs the same as well then?

from what I've seen with trucks, it really depends on what kind of space you have to work with, but as close to a wall setup as possible seems to work well. which is sub and port both facing forward. try to give port as much room as possible to breathe, that really helps. seen a guy was doing 146's all day on a hifonics 1206 and a 15" Q. so basically a 1kw system. was in an extended cab as well. I think that's beatin pretty hard.

2 whores 1 gulp? lmao roflmfao!

ppiflat10s little off subject, but where did you get your avatar pic? that'd be sick for a phone backdrop. I'm in no hurry for the sub, as the amp I want isn't even out yet...

best way to do it is subs and port facing back in a trunk. you can face it all to the cabin and seal everything off, but it's tough to get everything sealed. (this is how my setup is and if you do it it basically has to be permanent in the vehicle)

havocs are awesome, I've sat in vehicles running Q's, and walked over to another running havocs, sound different only cause vehicles and install, both are amazing.

nice bike, but if it were me, i'd sell the bike, and build a badass system. 1kw, plus that 100.4, so ur looking at 1400-1500 watts, IMO that's still in need of a decent battery. maybe at least get a small kinetik or something as a nice starting battery. like a hc1200 or something. I always recommend kinetik, IMO, along with some very smart intelligent electrical experts, they are the best.

def. more info, but to give an idea, if in trunk, then subs and port should both face back, in SUV, subs up, port back, in a wall, subs and port front obviously. what vehicle is it?

the main number I want to know is the Vas difference between the stock BTL, and one with the high xmax coil, and cooling option. I heat ring really worth it for daily or no? if so, that as well. using this number in conjunction with the Fs to come up with approx. size/tuning of box I want to build. Besides Vas and Fs, a generalization of change in the Q parameters is fine, nothing exact. I had an amp stolen, so have had to push back a bit on when I can order the BTL's, or mayhems (another reason havent' decided yet on BTL's or mayhems), anyway, box is built into a trunk in a 4-door sedan, so it will take me some time to re-build enclosure, so wanted to get it designed now. Scott, thank you for taking the time to reply to my post. BTW, those beefed Q's you built for me for SBN in the spring got me a 4th place trophy even with a faulty alternator, was pulling 147's on music from the trunk. (not bad on a crunch amp at 11volts) 2 15's... I was the one that called you about a possible phasing issue with the trunk. wanted to buy more product from you over the summer, but job decided not to allow that.

i got them with bp power whuts the difference? ok well the other gentleman described what the BP option is, but in stregthening the woofer, and the suspension, it takes away from some of the sealed ability of the woofer. Not saying it wont' work, it certainly will, and work well, just not as well as it would without it in a sealed. Generally speaking, you get the BP power option for daily ground-pounding in a ported enclosure. and no BP option for sealed setups. as for box design. I would build a double baffle. if you can, add that second layer of the baffle to the outside of the box, making overall depth 25.75". then add a brace or two for the width of the box, and other than that 3/4" MDF for the box build should be find. for dimensions given, depth=25" height=17'' width=32" that gives you 6.43 cuft total space. you can use a slot port, and with top and bottom plate, that would make port opening 15.5" tall. make the opening 4" wide, that gives you just shy of 12 sq. in. of port area per cubic foot of box volume. that 's what's recommended by Fi. make port length 20". this will give you a 5.58 cuft box after port displacement, and give you a tuning of 33.6 hz. and after woofer displacement and bracing, you will be closer to 5.2cuft, and tuning of ~34hz. and will have 12sq. in. of port per cube. it is on the small side, considering when I had a single 15" q, it had 4.8cuft after port and displacement just for itself, but gotta deal with what you have. Will still work great, but FYI, it will take a much larger box to really pound the lows like you might want to. but everyone's opinion of "lows" are different so you may be surprised of the output of this enclosure ~40hz range where most rap and hip/hop is played.

why is that? well, outter diameter of woofer is 15.625", so butting two up to each other makes is 31.25" and then you have the side walls of the enclosure. that's at bare minimum, 3/4" a side, or 1.5" total. in which the box I built for two 15" Q/s was double walled, braced, then fiberglassed on top of that and in all seems. so 32" is going to be a squeeze. you may have to stagger them slightly, so that they are not exactly side by side, just not sure how your install is suppose to "look" and where you will see the woofers in accordance with the vehicle.

If you want to run something a little more efficient, you could run two of the new alpine mrp-m2000's. they push 2000watts at 2 ohm, and 1500 at 4 ohm. alpine is great quality, and the amps are a very friendly priced. woofersetc.com has them at 480, and onlinecarstereo has them at 550. I've bought a lot of product from both sites. although the 3500d is a great choice as well. just giving you another option.

bladeice is way off on their weights, not sure what they're thinking. shipping weight was ~34 lbs. for my Fi Q 15". I believe shipping weight for 12" is about 26 1/2 lbs. it's just tough to figure out how much the dry weight is...within the .035 lbs. lol

I know that posted t/s paremeters on ficaraudio.com are for the stock BTL with no options. would it be possible to get the t/s params for the common fully loaded BTL built for daily music? Just curious to see how it changes, and I know you guys will always say stick to recommended box design, but it would still help me to have the t/s params.

tinsels are only change I've seen since I first ran a Q, that was just over about two and a half years ago.

barely enough width to even fit the subs on one faceplate. did you get the bp power option or no? they work a lot better sealed without the bp power.

8 cubes internal? ok, I would do a higher tune, like 35hz. that way your port will be short and take up less box volume, and no point in tuning low when box isn't large enough for woofers to have proper response to lower tones anyway. also go on the lower side of port area, like 12-13 sq. in. of port per cube as opposed to 15-16. doing these things will help you get the max out of your box. really just trying to help, and I'm assuming you went with BL's because of price, and after reading some responses you felt like they would still work even if not optimal choice. I understand, just allow some help with the box and you will still be happy. Bigjohn, if i'm not mistaken were you not hitting 145's with your BL's? I noticed a vid recently on youtube of you hitting 143's... sorry for thread jack, was j/w