mjmarovi

that's good to know about the latching into a specific resistance, i did not know that. Yeah, I thought the slash series were much more efficient than that, not sure what environment that 60 some percent was tested, I know my HD's are in the upper 80's.

were you happy with the db drives? if you could change something about them, what would you change?

Definitely take lithium's advice, please give a bit more information, tons of choice in that price range and power range for speakers that are clear and efficient with power. But, assuming correct deadening has been done, and it's a decent install, side by side in that price range, CDT, Polk, Kicker, Crescendo, really depends on what sound you like. Do you like a brighter sound with a harder tweet, or something smoother with a silk dome tweet? If you can find some used Hybrid Audio Imagines, (msrp 250), they will blow anything away anywhere near that price range.

could anyone compare some power tests, or guesstimate power output at 12v comparing the ns1, stetsom 7ke, and DC 7.5k? still kinda lost, never owned an amp in this high of power range, don't want to buy something and regret it as I may have to alter the space to get w/e to fit...

I'd stick with the JL's for sure, not really going to find anything except for the HD series that will be a better "quality", i mean very few really. The real question is whether you want to consolidate to one amp or not. If you do, than ok lets talk options, sundown 2500, rf 2500, DC 2.0K, Audison, Helix, etc.... Keep in mind that constant power at different ohm loads is a lot bigger deal than you might think when talking SQ, true SQ you are playing every frequency, at different frequencies your speakers will give different impedances to the amplifier resulting in small spikes in power and output. so since you have them, stick with JL. IMO they are better quality than anything anyone listed. And efficiency? JL is actually very efficient, just have to remember that electrical is important with them. If your system is slowly dropping in voltage they will just keep pulling more and more amps to make up for it. I am running JL HD series in my SQ truck and they are amazing amps, not gonna lie, I looked at a lot of different options for years and refused to run JL, finally decided to give them a go to truly honestly compare, and they blow away anything I've ever owned. I've owned a lot, RF, audison, kenwood excelon, alpine, sundown, just to name a few. And yes I realize what forum I'm on and how several people will now post to refute my OPINION!!

I get what you're saying, so voltage loss may occur on the inside of the amp? after I deliver sufficient power. that makes sense, I have to question their build quality then.

Oh yeah, here's the pic... can admin delete my double post? sorry about that...

Sundown is just a very proven performer. Not many people have a lot of experience with the ns1 as it just came out. If it follows the quality of the other sundown amps it will rank above the stetsom in my opinion. I just noticed that you have an I30 listed as your vehicle. Is this setup for the Infiniti? Yes, it is for the infiniti, just finished up the truck for the most part, besides deciding on fiberglassing kickpanels or just the pillars... here is a pic to give everyone an idea of what space I'm working with. Not going to quote each person, but what do you mean by the 7ke is touchy on voltage? running a DC power alty under hood with a hc1400, then a hc2000 and hc3800 in back for the amp, is that not enough? I may add a second alty if necessary, but stetsom says down to 9 volts is no problem, and I don't plan on dropping below 12, if I do i will beef up my electrical. I know that most people on here are sundown worshipers, but stetsom is also on this forum. footprint does matter, and yeah i can probably find a stetsom 7ke for close to half the price of an NS1 right now, so yeah that makes a difference but in the end money aside I want the best performer. Has anyone seen any stetsom power testing? even on the 5ke to give me an idea?

Sundown is just a very proven performer. Not many people have a lot of experience with the ns1 as it just came out. If it follows the quality of the other sundown amps it will rank above the stetsom in my opinion. I just noticed that you have an I30 listed as your vehicle. Is this setup for the Infiniti? Yes, it is for the infiniti, just finished up the truck for the most part, besides deciding on fiberglassing kickpanels or just the pillars... here is a pic to give everyone an idea of what space I'm working with. Not going to quote each person, but what do you mean by the 7ke is touchy on voltage? running a DC power alty under hood with a hc1400, then a hc2000 and hc3800 in back for the amp, is that not enough? I may add a second alty if necessary, but stetsom says down to 9 volts is no problem, and I don't plan on dropping below 12, if I do i will beef up my electrical. I know that most people on here are sundown worshipers, but stetsom is also on this forum. footprint does matter, and yeah i can probably find a stetsom 7ke for close to half the price of an NS1 right now, so yeah that makes a difference but in the end money aside I want the best performer. Has anyone seen any stetsom power testing? even on the 5ke to give me an idea?

Ok, definitely getting the feeling most ppl are liking the NS-1, but anyone have a more detailed answer or comparison of the two? any other ideas even on better power for 6 10" Fi Q's?

Any reasoning? Thanks, I just might have to hit him up. But first I need to be sure that's what I want.

Just sold my kicker 10's and 3k amp, and am looking to go to 6 bigger tens. I will be running either the Q's or BL's from fi, or still possibly some sundown tens. I will be running at 2/3 ohm nominal, and have narrowed my amp choices down to either the Sundown NS1, or the Stetsom 7ke. I used to be a part of Team Sundown so I know what the amps are capable of, and I know I will get every bit of 7k out of it, but what about the stetsom? how does it stack up? I already read a thread in their section about the single power/ground, so not too concerned about that. This will be a musical setup for bassrace and bass boxing, so not just talking burps here. I already have the electrical, kinetik hc1800, hc2000, and hc3800, and a DC power alty under the hood, may possibly look into a second alty after setup is installed and if I incur voltage issues. Thanks for any input in advance. Matt

I have been out of the game for awhile now, over a year, and want to pick up a 2500d, but I can't find a thread anywhere for power testing

Alright, so I have built and done some pretty crazy custom car audio builds and projects. I now live in the city of Chicago, and don't spend much time in the car so have sold most of my equipment. I still love my Hybrid Audio 4" mids, and would now like to incorporate them into a home theater system. I work for Best Buy as Magnolia Home Theater professional, and have tons of knowledge in the field, but this will be my first time building a home theater system from components. I have two pairs of the Mids, so 4 4.75" midrange drivers. I want to start this system by building a really nice pair of tower speakers. I was thinking of using a nice wood and maybe staining the wood for a nice look, but not sure what to use, was thinking maybe maple. I am used to working with MDF, and know that cabinet density makes a difference. I don't need the towers to play crazy low, but goal is maybe efficiently and cleanly down to ~50hz and have a dedicated woofer take over from there. I was contemplating using some hybrid tweeters as well, but am open to ideas. Here's a link on info for the midranges that I have. http://www.hybrid-audio.com/Legatia%20L4.pdf If I am better off selling these and purchasing difference midranges for HT, then just let me know, I just know these are amazing midranges designed for IB. Thanks in advance, and looking forward to getting this project rolling!

there a ton of drivers out there to choose from, but need some more info to really make a recommendation. you say SPL monster which tells me you are building a system for straight up burps. of course this is probably not the case. or is it? a pair? so i see you are team AudioQue, are you using two 2200's for power? what are you backing them with? if you are doing straight burps, the BTL built for SPL will most likely quite easily be the best choice, if you are looking at playing music very loudly it is still a good choice, but there would be a couple others worth looking at they may not have the same power handling as the BTL, but may be a little louder per watt and still handle 2krms no problem.

it is not very audible, I will say that....

unless you are doing true SQ and listening to true SQ music that has true "lows" there is no need to not have your subsonic on. even in a sealed enclosure, the average human ear can't even pick up frequencies below 20hz, and since in 90% of music there is no frequency below ~32hz being used, letting your sub play that low is only wasting power your amplifier could be using for the frequencies that are more profound and that you are actually trying to reproduce.

You Wanna Split 'Em With Me If He Does? I wanted four for myself! Screamin deal. At four the price went down from $65 to $55 a pop. Almost had four Fi drivers at my door for $265! Damn! I took advantage of that, will be installing 4 of them as well monday when they arrive. will def. post pics monday night, with hopefully a video.

You Wanna Split 'Em With Me If He Does? I wanted four for myself! Screamin deal. At four the price went down from $65 to $55 a pop. Almost had four Fi drivers at my door for $265! Damn! I took advantage of that, will be installing 4 of them as well tomorrow when they arrive. will def. post pics tomorrow night, with hopefully a video.

jay-cee, what do you mean run mid-bass up to 500 hz? 1) don't know what he is going to run yet 2) is he looking at a simple passive setup, not active, only case that crossover frequency would ever be used is in a 3-way active setup, far from anything this guy is looking to do. if you were to set a LP Xover at 500 hz on a passive set of components, then you would eliminate 90 percent of the music. No thread jack though, you kept it relavent. I am assuming you meant to say something a little different though.

alright, gotta little lesson for ya. component means "piece by piece" so the tweeter, crossover, and mid-bass or mid-range are all mounted or wired independently. Each has speaker wire running to it, via the crossover or directly through an amplifier using a passive crossover, which I won't get into passive as you are not in that stage of understanding yet. so for now, take component as a piece by piece and coaxial as everything being mounted together as one unit. and the 2-way, 3-way, 4-way, just means how many drivers to make up the set, so a tweeter and mid-bass is a 2-way, tweeter, midrange, mid-bass, 3-way, etc... components are much better quality not because of being "round", but because they are piece by piece so each component, the mid-bass, tweeter, are only playing the octaves (frequency ranges) that they are designed for. 6,12,18,24,36,48 db slopes just mean how steep or how sharply the crossover filters out the frequencies at the crossover point. for example: if you set a low pass crossover on a subwoofer (low pass meaning the frequencies above the setting will be filtered out) at 80hz. with a 6 db slow, the frequencies above 80 hz are filtered with 6 db less signal. 12 db, 12 db less signal, and 18 db, 18 db less signal. this is kinda relative as most crossovers are more gradual at the crossover point, and not exactly at that frequency. this is why when say crossing over a mid-bass at 100 hz high-pass so that frequencies below 100hz are filtered, those lower frequencies can still be heard at a 6 db slope just not as loud, and 12 db even less noticeable, and 18db almost gone, and 24 db nearly eliminates them. only real high-end digital xovers or custom built passives will have slopes steeper than 24 as it is for the most part unnecessary. now that the lesson for the day is out of the way, the reason most high-end companies do not make speakers that would normally fit in the rear is because they know that people that purchase their speakers are looking for true SQ. In sound quality think of creating a sound stage in your vehicle. if you are at a concert, the sound comes form the stage in front of you, not behind you. therefore eliminating the purpose or need for speakers in the rear deck as there is essentially no such thing as "rear fill". so concentrate funds on a nice set of components for the front powered by a good amp.

don't worry about the BTL's cancelling out low notes. you probably want to let your BTL's play up to 80hz at the highest. let your component speakers you get handle the rest from there. I did not list anything close to 500 dollars. can't really tell you what to buy as you opinion of sound differs form mine or the next guy's. IMO for the money, the Image Dynamics, Alpine Type X, Polk Momo's, and CDT HD series can all be found in the 200 some dollar range, and are all great high quality speakers.

tampa's not too far...still seems I am the only one reppin the Fort Myers area. not complainin, as central and east coast is definitely more youthful, not so much retiree haha

But honestly, I dont know many audio shops here. If I could get at least some reference, it would be great. Im leaning towards Kicker so far. personally not a huge fan of kicker mids/highs, speakers are very personal but I find their performance sub-par. what kind of budget are you looking at? MB Quart Polk CDT Hertz all four of those companies make some great component sets that are relatively inexpensive spend a bit more and you could be looking at Diamond Audio Image Dynamics Alpine Type X Pioneer Premier the list is really quite long for mids/highs try to find a shop or somewhere you can make general comparisons and get an idea of what you want to spend and what kind of sound you like. what vehicle is it and where do you plan on installing the speakers? amp for them or no?

I have checked out the 3800 before, I can tell you that Kinetik work like this....the larger the battery you get, the more amperage and ah you get per dollar. you can always try the classifieds section on this forum, or classifiedzz.com