Penguin4x4

All I can think when I watch this is "This must be the way Sean test drives cars".

5x5 Squats 5x5 Barbell Rows 5x5 Bench First time in a long time I've been able to do this amount of volume.

Good question, haha. Would be pretty awkward. You have to stand on a yoga ball when you do it too!

Gas company dug up the phone line yesterday. Yeeesh.

Send me a few bushels, please

Pool noodles are a lot cheaper than backing rod, for sure.

Do NOT use on a vertical surface and on cracks larger than 1/4" Here's another hint too. If you have a deep crack, take one of those foam pool noodles and cut it to fit down in the crack before filling. It will keep the filler from cracking and aid in expansion and contraction. Talk to Ryan about concrete, he knows all about that shit. So that crack filler has the same size limitations as sealant? Bummer.

It's a boring day - I've got nothing to do Except to get a load of retards and drive 'em to the zoo Fah la la la la takin' retards to the zoo Fah la la la la takin' retards to the zoo Load 'em on a bus just for laughs Down a winding road stepping on the gas Down a winding road just daydreaming Down a winding road with the retards screaming Fah la la la la takin' retards to the zoo Fah la la la la takin' retards to the zoo One of them blowing a big spit bubble Slam on the brakes at the first sign of trouble Head on collision bodies everywhere Head on collision retards beware Fah la la la la takin' retards to the zoo Fah la la la la takin' retards to the zoo

Alternatively, companies sell small quantities of premixed product, such as Quikrete's Concrete Crack Seal:

Blow it out your ass, motorcycle man! I am the Devil, do you understand?

If you choose to mortar the gap, pick up a grouting bag. Much easier:

If the driveway turns out to be level, and tar isn't in the cards, I would suggest scraping out whatever crap is currently covering the joint. Old caulk, mud, leaves, whatever. The only thing you want there is the driveway, foundation wall, and the gap. If the gap itself is deeper than 1/2", you will have to fill it with either mortar, or a backer rod until it is 1/2" from the surface. Fill the remaining gap with a polyurethane sealant, such as OSI Quad or Loctite PL. Here is a YouTube video demonstrating this method with backer rod: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Hcx17cQU9Y

Yeah that's the great thing about concrete. You can add or subtract to it repeatedly. They also have rental tools called concrete grinders. They're basically big ass floor buffers with diamond carbide teeth. You can use these to eliminate high spots. If you plan on adding concrete on top of the existing driveway, make sure to cover the driveway with a coat of concrete bonding agent beforehand and/or use polymer concrete.

More and more I am thinking this is it. I would check the side to side grading of the driveway. Since it's a concrete driveway and not an asphalt driveway, you can fix it relatively easy. If it does turn out to be a side to side grading issue, disregard the tar advice. That would only be a band-aid and would not solve the root cause of the problem.

Assuming that the foundation wall protrudes above grade like the image above, you should be able to get some tar in the joint between the foundation wall and the driveway. Think of it as a large caulk joint. Just make sure you don't set anything flammable on fire.

just make sure not to set the mudsill, rimjoist, or wood siding (if you have wood siding) on fire.

you could tar the bejesus out of the joint where the house and the driveway meet

could be an issue with the side to side grading of the driveway in relation to the house

All it takes a little gap. Keeping structures water tight is a major PITA. Is the driveway graded away from the foundation, or is it level?

Any closet's a walk in closet if you try hard enough!