khinds94

Ooh.. Maybe I don't need to rip the CT sticker off my car lol.

Actually you probably put in the box specs. Just put the power back down to 1 watt

Why aren't you modeling them in their boxes? Don't use that power and distance stuff. Click the box tab and just put in the airspace. Then post another pic.

Very true. I feel like ever since ct came out. Everyone has been going to their amps because of pricing... Only the smart ones kept away.

What do you mean the subs aren't comparable? I think he's stuck between the jl and id10

It's funny to think I can use my box for my 12 and cut a bigger hole for an ethos 15. Just would need to change port area lol.

Ethos in a low tuned enclosure maybe around 30hz. Your gunna save yourself money on the driver and on the power. Plus the ethos is a very efficient driver. You will save airspace also for groceries.

Man it really sucks to see this, A supportive customer let down. I think its downhill for CT from this point on...

- Ordered 12 feet of SHCA CCA wire - 10 1/0 Copper lugs and Heatshrink Needless to say I got more... I cant help but push everybody I talk to to this site.

They aren't Korean amps. However I'm not bashing the product and many people have had success with them. There also has been numerous reports of them going up in smoke. So do as you wish

they are only 300 rms. if your content on that alpine amp and have 500 watts to work with, buying 2 S4s and wiring to 2 ohm would be your best bet. You can always upgrade to say a 750 watt amp down the road when you got the cash. I know how you feel with changing from a ported box to a sealed box. but sq is what your going for and those Dcons can really provide that.

very true good sir, I was just looking at their sealed specs and it doesnt list them. So i am not sure if it is not recommended to have them in such enclosures or if its just not listed. I was also going to recommend the SD series from sundown. but they also do not like sealed boxes. Im really gunna have to say your best off with the dcons off woofersect. they are 147 each with free shipping. mounting depth works too.

What about the HDS200 series from soundqubed? theyre only gunna run you 200 for the pair and as you can tell someone already has seen an improvement over the JLs theyve had. Quote taken from the site: These subs are great! Previously owned a pair of JL 10w0's and the hds210s greatly surpass those! Installed these into the custom box I built tuned to 32 hz and wired them to 1ohm and the lows are amazing. Shaking the crap out of my car for a couple of 10s!

I would suggest the Dcon 10s if you could up your budget by 20 bucks on each sub. You will really like the sound quality and the specs of the dcon work perfect with the box you have selected.

Thanks for claification. Im not too good at scoping out info

Favorite build I wanna see more videos

What is different about these amps? Where they designs specifically for the improvement of size? It doesn't say much except they can't handle above 15v. I'm very curious.

What are your goals sound wise? Do you have a specific frequency range you are focusing on?

If you pickup a 270/250 amp alt and a large agm such as a D3100 or xp3000 along with a small agm under the hood. You should stay atleast high 12s if not 13s.

Would have suggested to check that except you said that you brought the battery up front and hooked it to the front and got the same results. Yea I think the reason why I didn't notice is because my idle voltage is 13.1 and that's what the battery was resting at. And I couldnt try charging it because I was up front and couldn't put my foot on the gas lmfao. Just thought it wasn't charging.

Uhhh yea it was a blown fuse from front bat to rear... Probably should have checked that first. Charging at 14.4-14.5 now

I know. There must be something I'm doing wrong. This battery is a week old.

I thought the same thing so I disconnected the battery, brought it to the front. Hooked up jumper cables from the front bat to the xp. And still did not charge. When I put it on the charger it charges up. But it doesn't hold a charge in the car.

I have a xp2000 in the back and when I bought it I put it in my car and it charged at 13.1 or 14.4 @ 2k rpm. A few days ago when I turned my car on my voltage was at 13.1 like it normally charges at but when I revved the engine it wouldnt charge to 14.4, it slowly then dropped by .1 around per day until I unhooked it because it got to around 12.2. So I checked my connections and grounds and saw no problems. I then looked at the front battery and it was charging at 13.1 and 14.4, but the xp2000 in the back does not charge when its hooked up. So I hooked it up to a charger overnight and it read about 14.4 in the morning and unhooked it, I then went to work and came back and it was back at 13. I put it back in the car to see if it would charge by the alternator to 13.1/14.4 but it sat at 13.5 and continues to drop by .1 everyday. I dont understand why the alt is not charging it. Am I suppose to charge the bat higher than 14.4 initially?

I don't understand. So a 2 way setup plays the midbass and frequencies above? While the 3 way setup just plays the midbass? no a 3 way you will have another driver that plays in between the mid bass and tweeter. Thanks for clarification. So do 3 way setups usually sound better than 2 way setups? Because your using each driver for a specific set of frequencies. Rather than using just using just 1 midbass driver that plays a larger range of frequencies?