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95Honda

SSA Tech Team
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Everything posted by 95Honda

  1. There is NO benefit to "dual inputs". There IS benefits from running 2x the power cable...
  2. So what was the point? I don't think anything was a surprise...
  3. No, that isn't what we are saying. If you use those subs it won't sound very good. If you don't mind it not sounding very good, press on with your build. OR, sell the drivers and buy 1 or 2 that are intended for your application and be MUCH better off.
  4. Please understand that there is no relevance in comparing volume to vent area. Ever. I have no idea where this came from, but please stop posting this type of thing.
  5. OK. Then do what is specified by Soundqubed: http://www.soundqubed.com/Box-Sizes-and-Tuning-_ep_68.html There really isn't any problems to solve.
  6. I don't understand what you want us to say... We are trying to explain why the drivers you choose aren't really suited for home audio. If you don't want to hear what we have to say then just build the box in your pictures.
  7. Lol. The drivers have been in crates for 3 years waiting for an IB install in our new house... Maybe next year I'll get it done...
  8. Honestly? I would try IB first... Do you have a basement below the listening room?
  9. #1 don't waste your money on CCA power cable, seriously. It is 100% a marketing gimmick... #2 I think you are still missing what we are trying to explain to you about the sub-stage. The way the overall output is going to sound is almost completely determined by the chosen alignment, not the cone size or driver type. If you design for the desired response you are looking for (you sound like you are looking for a bump in the upper range like a sealed box with a higher Q) you will get the results you are looking for. I have not personally used the components you are talking about, but when you have a sub-stage with something like a 15", it is hard to expect a single set of components to keep up in the mid bass regions at all but normal listening levels.
  10. Not terribly suited for H/T or 2 channel Playback... How many of them do you actually already have?
  11. If they won't publish T/S then they aren't worth crap. Stereo subs is the way. One sub behind/beside each main. People who say bass is non-direction have never heard decent playback...
  12. The perception of "fast" is all in your alignment...
  13. There is nothing inherently wrong with running two different subs. You may get some phase difference issues unless they share common airspace (which is completely OK, even with completely different drivers). BUT, there is also no real reason to do this. The difference you are accustomed to hearing is due to the different way the drivers have been used. The sound of sealed you are wanting is due to a high Q box, like over 1, this is what gives you that perceived "punch" and "tightness". The reason the vented have sound lacking there is due again to their design and boosted low end caused by cabin gain which gives a perceived lack of upper bass. Again, this is all a perception due to anomalies of each alignment. My suggested would be, and this is only my suggestion, to chose a pair of the 10" or 12" drivers you were looking at (just chose based on space available). If you decide sealed, chose a Q around .7-.8, if you decide vented, don't tune anywhere below 30Hz and try and model for a low ripple alignment. You will need a SSF. A tad of Eq, not too much, can also help get where you want to be, also... If a bunch of this is over your head, get some help...
  14. The title of this thread should have been "I don't know how to properly set up my sub stage, please help"...
  15. All drivers have power compression. That doesn't neglect the efficiency rating.
  16. You can design a bandpass to have a response as flat as any standard 4th order vented. You can also have the needed bandwidth required for your application. It is all how you design the enclosure and the drivers you use...
  17. Retired? No. I have been in for 16. That was a while ago...
  18. Check out the specs on these drivers, lol... http://www.ari-web.com/aurasound/pdf/nrt18-8.pdf
  19. As all have pretty much said. Most drivers intended for pro-sound require large enclosures to make their efficiency shine. Also, this isn't a new idea. There have been a few pro-sound drivers on the block for decades,, that would fit this application. I have used both of them. In the early 90's I did a few pro-audio installs with the McCauley 6174 18" driver. I was highly efficient, had a low Fs and almost 3/4" of one way linear excursion. I also have used the Aura 1808 (and the newer NRT-18) several times over the last few decades. It also was very efficient, had a low Fs and plenty of excursion... Both very low distortion high output drivers... The drawbacks? They were $1000 each, even back in the day, and they needed relatively large enclosures... BUT, if you were in some type of class that limited you to say a single driver of any size and low power, say 500 watts, and you had no enclosure limitations, then these two drivers would be every car audio driver, hands down... But that really doesn't really fit into any classes that I am aware of... Here are the boxes I made for (4) of the Aura 18's almost 10 years ago... They are like 20ft3 each, lol... Also, that is $4k for (4) subs...
  20. If you guys are talking vented enclosures, the primary purpose of dampening material is too attenuate mechanical noise and upper harmonics. It does NOT cause the driver to act as if it is in a larger enclosure nearly as effectively as it does in sealed alignment. There are diminishing returns with applying dampening material in a vented alignment and you will drastically start lowering efficiency if you over stuff the box. Polyfill really has no place in vented alignments unless you are lining the walls with it... Even so, It does NOT work as good as fiberglass at attenuating the garbage you are trying to get rid of in a vented alignment...

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