95Honda

jerejkullman: You sound/look like a spammer, don't go posting BS on this forum! Seriously, don't be a fuckstick...

Depending on the compliance, most subwoofers can be destroyed with a few hundred watts below tuning in a vented enclosure. This is why we have Sub Sonic Filters. Additionally, you have an amplifer that could almost produce two times the power the subwoofer is thermally rated at. So really, you could have blown it in a myriad of ways.

The software is the easy part. Getting an accurate measuring device is the hard/expensive part...

Oh yeah, good catch... OP- Disgregard my 1st post...

I used a Term Lab. Problem is, they won't read anything under 120db (IIRC, and this was 8 years ago). But mine would do 120+ @ 20Hz @ the listening position, so this wan't an issue... You can also get cheap handheld meters. But accuracy is a crap-shoot...

John- You hang around of alot of mechanics, right? Is there any way you can get ahold of an hand held temp sensor? The one with a laser you don't have to touch anything with. If you can, get a couple of readings of your amp when it shuts down... Want to see what your heat sink temp is...

Check out AudioControl.

If you apply more than the RMS rating (regardless of signal) over a sustained time, you will cause thermal failure. Simple as that.

As of 10 AM this morning everything is headed to the West Coast via FedEx. $256 ground, lol... 200lbs total... So the next update will be the system installed by a local shop outside of Seattle. We'll get some pictures up then. Thanks for all the comments. It was a fun build and I am happy with the end product. I don't think I would change much...

Sucks. You have a shitload of power and strong electrical, so when this type of thing happens, it happens full-out...

Whoa, take a deep breath. I merely suggested you take a little time and write clearly. You get the same effort in response you get into question. Being in a hurry is no reason to type like crap. People have to decifer what you are trying to get across... I'll still help regardless of how you type... The only thing that determains minimum vent area is driver displacement and power. That is it. If you want to figure this out, model for vent velocity and change power input. You will see the correlation. You can also change driver Sd and see the same thing. You don't need to be a smartass, either.

If your electrical is up to par, it makes no difference...

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/55861-a-well-though-out-15-mayhem-build/page__fromsearch__1

Well, I just finished a build for one, "Well though out Mayhem build". I went with 4tf3 @ 32Hz as Brian suggested. Model the driver, that will answer any other questions you have...

There is no relation between enclosure volume and port area. None at all. Hey, just a suggestion, clean up your grammar if you want to be taken seriously...

Your are probably OK. That is a lot of amplifiers and processors... The voltage out of the deck will be the same as the nominal input voltage (your battery voltage) The voltage required to turn on most amps will be from around 7-9V on up, depending on circuit. None need exactly 12V or more... If you are worried about the current draw and want to use a relay, try and choose one with a primary coil resistance greater than 75 ohms. You will wire the feed from any 12V source as the turn on circuit is isolated form the amplifier. If you ever had noise from running a switch like you described either the instal or equipment was faulty, that is the only way this will happen. Good luck and I hope this helps!

That is the issue, some relays out there how a low enough coil resistance that they will pull close to your 500ma.... I have measured some in the 20-30 ohm range, this can be far worse than the remote trigger circuit of any amp...

Got everything mounted and cables installed. The power wire is not connected yet as the final installer in Seattle will take care of that. They will also mount the cables neatly to the cabinet. I went ahead and put expandable sheaths over everything with heatshrink to clean up the ends. The equipment only sits about 3/16" off the cabinet wall because I countersunk the rubber isolators in so deep. Also, the pig tail that connects to the XLR cable on the car side isn't shown. It is also cover in expandable sheath and looks real nice. All in all she is really clean, looks great. Will be super simple to take in and out. Pictures don't do it justice as usual and my shop is a mess right now...

You should do your homework first. You need to decide on your relay, most will choose a 30 amp Bosch. If this is the case you need to consider that the coil resistance of the relay may be low low enough that it pulls more current from your deck's power turn on lead than say 4 or 5 amps and processors combined... Figure between 50-75 ohms on the coil, so you need to do the math to decided if it is a good idea. Many times people install one of these relays and actually pull more current from the deck than they would without it becuase they never actually thought about what they were doing... They also wasted money and made things overly complex... If you actually have more current draw from all you devices than the deck can supply (unlikely unless you have a ton of shit) and you need a relay, you need to factor the coil primary resistance in when figuring out if your deck will be OK driving. Some decks will not be happy operating a standard 30 amp Bosch...

There is no correct "rule of thumb" for port area vs. box volume. Port area is determained by driver displacment and power, not box size.... With that 10 at full power a 4" ID PVC pipe or roughly 12 in2 of area will be fine for just about anything you throw at it... You can add more area, but will get diminishing returns... WinISD only gives you a ridiculous port area if you look for a ridiculoulsy low vent velocity... When you are in a truck cab, normally firing the drivers and/or port off the back wall or sides near th eback usually nets highest SPL. If you load into the center of the cabin, you tend to get less output. Hope this helps...

Thanks. Flash from the camera makes the lines look weird. The pictures don't do it justice, it looks bad as hell in person... I'm going to try and finish up everything by this weekend, I'll get some better pictures then... This shit is gonna be loud....

Well, good luck. I know the guys at FI know what they are doing when they design these drivers. Performance is usually pretty well optimized... I am also very skeptical of anyone's personal opinions of driver performance in relation to car audio without proper measurements. And I don't mean a Termlab... Everything sounds great 99% of the time to people...

Back from Line-X. They did a real good job, nice and even. The box is dusty in the pictures, I will get it cleaned up after I finish building all the wiring harnesses for the back and build the short RCA cables... She's all buisness boys...

I would, if I simply want a steeper roll-off at the same point by cascading the filters... I.e, 24db/oct HU + 24db/oct Amp = 48db/oct total, 12db/oct + 18db/oct = 30db/oct total, etc... And there is no reason to use either the HU or Amp in any particular preference as long as they fit your filter criteria...

Your going to have measure the gap and calculate clearance with your proposed WW. Are the stock BTL spiders progressive? If you were aiming SPL, I would stay away from linear spiders in fear of mechanical damage... Also, do you have the baskets yet? New 12 spokes are pretty cheap really...