95Honda

If you aren't going active, I would save the money and buy the 4 channel instead....

I would press for active with that amp. The built in crossovers are very nice. I just finished an install with that amp, 2 way front stage with a substage, all active. Additionally, it will give you much more control of you individual driver levels.

Anytime... Think I used one on a Punch 75 But it may have been a SS D-100....

Additionally, you can use a transformer, but one that will handle the power you are probably using will cost more than your subs and amp you already have. This was a (semi) popular car audio item about a decade or two ago when we were only dealing with a few hundred watts...

I just finished an install with a Zed Leviathan class D. It sounds really good, but like M5 said, it was a reputable design. Class D has come a long way in the last decade as far as fidelity in concerned.

Tang Band Neo 8's in a standard cab. 2ft3 total, tuned at 30Hz. Driven by a MMATS DHC 2200.1, roughly 1.5-2Kw... This is my dad's truck, They get retarded loud and low in the little cab. He pretty much lets them have it on a daily basis, they have been in there for almost 7 year snow. Dollar for dollar, I would put the Tang Bands up against anything else...

^Yes. And additionally, you can cause thermal failure of any driver truly rated at 600 watts with an amplifier that will produce a 600 watt sine wave. So in reality even saying a 600 watt amplifier would be safe is incorrect. The bottom line is that a particular driver has a set thermal limit. If you exceed that limit in any way you will cause failure. If you cannot figure this out than you will either continually blow drivers or severely have to cut back on your available power. And the whole "I run 2X RMS without issue" Blah Blah Blah is a crock of shit. Nobody runs 2-4 times the RMS rated power to a driver on a continuous basis; if you did it will fail... You may have amplifiers that are capable of producing many times the rated power of the driver, but you are never effectively transferring this power to the driver on any type of continuous basis .

The only way to get rid of the problem is to get rid of the potential voltage difference. Sometimes this means everything has to be grounded at the same place. You just cannot expect everything in a car (full frame or unibody) to have negligable resistance. It just doesn't happen all the time. When it doesn't, you get ground loops. The more equipment you have, the more potential for problems.

I gave you an answer that was textbook. You are making a big deal out of nothing.

Clean has nothing to to do with anything. If you put more than 600 watts of any type of continuos signal into the driver you risk thermal failure.

Every sub runs progressively worse as you increase power. In other words, every sub runs the best at 1 watt, and performance decreases from there as power increases. Some drivers are more efficient than others and require less power to achieve a target ouput as compared to another.

Only meaningful spec there is mounting depth. You have no idea how flat or low the driver will play without the T/S parameters. Also look into the Dayton line of shallow sub at Parts Express.

They will work just fine like that...

Not neccesarily, you may have had a ground loop the whole time, the other amp may have had better input isolation, or at least enough that you didn't notice the noise... Also it could have been a difference of one amp having different chassis isolation and behaved differently when screwed down to metal... Regardless, you probably haveb a loop and need to get rid of it...

Amp was set up to use channel 1+2 as signal for 5+6 (sub), instead of 5+6 being driven by thier own input, so no real sub level control. Also, the Pioneer H/U didn't exactly have a sub adjustment, only an Eq with variable center frequency boost, kind of lame really. I also think there is something else wrong with the HU, no worries though, he gets a brand new HU today ot tomorrow. He is in Seattle, I'll tell him to check this thread...

So got my hands on the system today. Was a setting issue... Sounds great now...

^ In my opinion, no...

Alternator whine comes from a ground loop (difference of voltage potential) like most every one has said so far, with the only exception normally being defective equipment. There is no type of RCA, shield or drain-wire that will do anything to help this. The reason is, when there is a difference of potential voltage bewteen equipment due to different ground potentials, the potential attempts to find a least path of resistance to equalization... This is almost always through the low level signal chain (RCAs). If you put everything at the same potential, the noise will go away. If you do not, it won't. It is as simple as that...

No, you already have a 4th order bass reflex. The order refers to the roll-off, 4th means 24db/oct. If you want to design a 4th order bandpass, look into the many online calculators. I also suggest conducting a little research. There is a lot that goes into designing a proper enclosure. A good place to start would be to purchase the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook by Vance Dickason and read the first several chapters. This will shed a lot of light on what you are trying to do. You'll may get a bunch of design help on here, but if you don't understand the basics, it may do you more harm than good.

You already have a 4th order bass reflex box. I don't understand you question.

Just remember, port area has nothing to do with box volume and everything to do with driver displacement. If you are running designs and see an increase in output when you change port area (especially making it smaller) it is because you are manipulating something else unintentionaly. When you make a box smaller you make it less efficient, 100% of the time. It isn't that the driver likes the smaller box better, it is that you have lowered system efficiency with the by product of increased mechanical power handling. It will never be as loud as a larger more efficent box with proportionaly less power due to thermal compression. If you are modeling, shoot for lowest vent velocity possible while keeping you port a managable size, that really is all there is too it. It has nothing to do with the volume of your box...

The higher the system impedance the less current is drawn from the source. Ohms law. Remember, most amplifers are constant voltage in nature, they source the required current into the load to keep the voltage at a set level. The current they source depends on the load impedance. Amplifiers have frequency response. I design and build amplifiers. Clipping itself doesn't create heat. I did a comprehensive test on this almost 8 years ago here: http://www.forceaudi...ng-effect-test/ Sorry, the graphs were deleted. I have probably spent more time researching this than anyone on this, or any other car audio site. What you don't (and most other people) understand is, that when you properly set the last gain stage in a signal chain for maximum voltage drive without hitting the rail limits (clipping) with any type of test equipment, it is completely useless 99% of the time as you can still manipulate many different stages farther up the chain. My mind is probably more open than most. I pointed out the common missconceptions in this thread. I am sorry if I offended you, seriously.

#1 amplifers made today have resonably flat frequency response and do not "put out more power at higher frequencies" #2 clipping does not increase heat, more power does #3 the only thing to lower heat it to lower power #4 every gain setting tip in this thread is meaningless, O Scopes are useless in every situation posted on here. Just a few points... You turned the volume down somewhere, that is it.

If you don't need a ton of output than you would be fine doing a standard vented or sealed box. Don't need a marine driver for th emost part. Just look for something with a rubber surround, poly/aluminum/heavily treated cone and preferably an aluminum frame. Look at one of the Dayton HF 12s.... You could use something like window screen if you want to keep the bugs out...

^^ Easy to work with (machine) also......