95Honda

Pretty much... Anything else is a waste of $$. And an inferior product. My opinion though... So take it for what it is...

Just don't waste your money on anything but welding cable.... Good rule of thumb is, if it has a gay name with a bunch of "K"s, "C"s or "X"s where they don't belong, don't buy it.....

The plastic cups are garbage (all of them), running bolts and nuts is ghetto, and I think some amplifier output stages have been trashed because of them..... Use the knock through kind in the bottom of the picture above ^^. They work the best and are worth the extra few bucks. I prefer the satin finish ones from PartsExpress. Additionally, I run a set for each woofer for wiring flexibility. The box below has 8 woofers and 8 sets of those posts.

I don't know about that probe. Anything Fluke is going to be decent. I have an 87, and have always been happy. High quality and no problems. I had my personal one calibrated at work and it met all standards, it was also 4 years old...

See what you can get an Fluke 87 for. Overkill, but worth the $300-$400 they go for... True RMS also, up to about 400Hz I think... Look at an external clamp for the 87 also....

Sealed boxes don't always have better mechanical power handling, especially above resonance (where they are intended to operate) of a vented alignment. Actually, sealed boxes often require more stroke, more distortion and greater thermal compression.... But sealed alignments are easier to build and get a flatter response out of. The debate on merits of each will go on for ever. I prefer vented most of the time because I do mostly home audio, and size isn't ever of concern... I have built probaly 100 sealed aligments in the past 20 years, so I wouldn't say I am totally biased...

A vented box is a 4th order. Do you mean a 4th order bandpass? If so, then a bandpass can have higher efficiency over a smaller bandwidth... That's about it in a nut shell.

You will get more output, all else being equal, with a vented alignment. Sounds like that is all you want.

If you aren't sure of this, you are going to probably have a lot of problems. A 6th order bandpass has more aspects that can go wrong than pretty much any other enclosure design...

I am about 20 min away. Pm you my phone #

^^ Dampening doesn't help with standing waves/reflections pretty much at all below 100Hz or so... Kind of a missconception.... You mostly dampen in a ported box to atenuate harmonics and mechanical noise, you use it large amounts to change the Q is a sealed box...

You see it in a lot of Pro Audio stuff. Check out the Bag End BASSAULT-R www.bagend.com It is fucking retarded, I installed a pair of them about 7 years ago.....

Thanks. Kind of what I figured with the size of the coil. probably going to start with around 7 ohms and 100 ufd and measure.... Will be crossing them around 300Hz 1st order, so I think it will be needed... I am building 3-ways with Eminence 10" Beta Coaxs, pretty much copying the Adire Hurricane design. I think it will be perfect for my Garage. Big, vented and efficient...

I have a pair of 8 ohm MJ18s. I am designing a Zobel for them at the moment and cannot find the published Le of these anywhere. I also don't have access to my Suncor LCR meter at the moment.... Does anyone know off-hand what it is?

I have never had any issues with David. He has always treated me good. He has built me several subs that are still working perfect. I have dealt with him for about 7-8 years now. I was speaking to a mutual friend this morning (of David and I). He has been to PSI, says he was very impressed and said David has his shit together. My 2 cents, for what it's worth...

He is going to have the box detached so he can move it around and experiment.

OK, so kind of got sidetracked with other projects. I will be finishing my garage over Christmas break. The I will have some decent room to build all the IB stuff. As for another project for the garage, I am building a large set of 3-ways. I have a pair MJ18s I bough off here a few months ago. I also have a set of Eminence Beta 10 coax's with ACD compression drivers. I am going to build a set of Adire Hurricane clones, I will just have to tweak a few parts for the MJ18 (Zobel) and the ACD tweeter (attenuation). These will be big, vented efficient boxes... Should be perfect for pounding out some tunes... Pretty sure they will stay un-finished MDF... Probably run them off an Adcom 200 WPC amp I have....

^^ Unless you have measured the impedance over the entire frequency range of your sub system, you have no idea what your impedance is. It is probably an ohm or two higher than you think.

I haven't had MDF split in years with screws, just use the appropriate pilot hole. I have never seen a need for plywood unless weight is of absolute concern. MDF surface preps better, machines better and is more uniform than plywood. Hell, I tap MDF regularly and use coarse thread machine screws for driver mounting. When you brace appropriately and build thick enough, you will never see the performance advantage of plywood.

^^ Yep. Your particular alignment will have an impedance curve. You can measure this or if you have relaible software, can model it for the most part.

#1 The un-weighted Fs will have nothing to do with the overall outcome of your alignment. This is the Fs without adding any weight, and you will/can change this. #2 The power rating of a sub has nothing whatsover to do with the passive radiator requirments. You need to shoot for a passive radiator that will have roughly 2X the displacment of the active driver at full output. The Dayton 15 will just about do this, the TC 15 will definetly do this and the TC 12 will just about do this also. The signle Dayton 12 will not come close, a pair would be about the minimum. All this assumes you are going to use enough power to get full stroke out of the driver. If you are just going to use a few hundred watts or so, than any of the combos will work and you won't have to worry about a thing..

One of these- http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-142 Or 2 of these- http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-140 One of these if you have a big budget- http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=293-680

Welding cable is the best cable out there for car audio. It is also usually the cheapest... The only way Knu makes any sense is if you are getting the pure copper stuff at a price much less than welding cable, because it isn't near the quality.

^^ And that's if your lucky.... What most people think is "clipping" is parts banging into stuff. It is very hard to hear clipping, especially with music.... And clipping doesn't make pop or clank sounds.... Most rap music is so compressed that the bass lines are already clipped in the recording....

Found a pic. Small square hole above the woofer hole is the vent. Was for a 10" sub.