95Honda

Just remember, if you wire your HU directly to a 30 amp Bosch type relay it pulls 150+ ma continous, which can be near max for some HU remote voltage levels and is also normally much more current than what is required to turn on several amplifiers. Food for thought. Better off to get a smaller 5 amp or so relay with a primary coil 150-200+ ohms....

Aren't those the Venezuelan baskets? If so, I would have to seriously doubt there really is casting/forging tolerance issue. Look at your cutouts after the driver didn't fit and make sure there isn't any gouges from excess cast material. If not, UPS or FEDex probably re-adjusted them for you....

Normal analog audio won't be on a single coax, if it is indeed a single audio output it is digital, especially if it is orange or geen colored. You would need a didgital input on your stereo. if it is an "F" type coax ouput (looks like a cable TV connector) than it isn't audio all together. Hope this helps.... Normally if a TV has a digitial audio output it should also have an anolog output stereo set. Or is it an old TV with a single mono analog audio output? If that is the case, buy a "y" adapter.... Sound will be mono though....

Bummer. The economy has been rough....

Awsome, really. You guys do more for the US than you will ever know....

Clipping has no effect on tinsel leads. If you can smell it, you are giving it too much power. Period. Only other thing that may cause this is a faulty amplifier that is producing something other than the intended signal and it's harmonics.... Probably not the issue in your case.

Could you throw up some off-axis plots?

Clipping has absolutely nothing to do with it. At all. Every post contrary to this in this thread is B.S. If you keep smelling it, you are applying to much power, period.

That is a high Q. Are you sure both coils were hooked up? What do you mean by 1st order? Are you refering to a 4th order box? If so, most drivers that behave well sealed will work OK for 4th order bandpasses if they have sufficent Vas to allow for proper vent sizes...

Buy anything made of metal these days and you will understand..... Reloading components have skyrocketed.....

I am currently riding an 05' R1. This is my 14th sportbike. I ride 3-4 days a week. I would not reccomend a liter bike to anyone as a first bike, more than likely you will get hurt. Buy a cheap POS (you will drop it, even if it is while you are washing it) ride it for at least a few months until you are comfortable and then look at a bigger bike. Ninja 500, and Enduro or a cheap standard would be on top of my list for a beginner. My insurance is $40 a month for full coverage from USAA, but I am married and over 30. If you aren't, it can be expensive.... Just don't play into the gay "biker club" shit. Most of them are retards and you will do more harm to your riding skills than good by trying to keep up with them. If anyone has a mohawk on thier helmet just steer clear. If they are riding a Katana with a mohawk helment, they should be shot....

The major variable to determain your minumum port size is going to be input power. A 6" Areo would be fine at most normal tunings at moderate to high output levels. The only way you will know for sure is to model for vent velocity. The guy at the shop is a moron, I would not trust the box design from him....

Also, consider that RMS has nothing to do with subwoofer power requirements, at all....

Output impedance doubles when strapped, so dampening cuts in half right off the bat...

1/2 ohm is just a bad all around idea... You loose efficiency, lose dampening, loose sound quality and lessen parts life. Build an efficient box and run a nominal 2 ohm load with those subs... Your wallet and ears will thank you in the long run... Also, unless you can't get the power needed out of single amp, strapping (bridging) 2 amplifiers is the worst option. You again loose efficiency, dampening and sound quality.

I have had multiple LOCs cause this problem in the past, but since you said you bypassed it, that can't be the issue. I would try and find out if it is the amp or source, from your post, doesn't sound like the amp but you never know. Quick way to find out without test equipment would be to hook a different source up straight to the amp like an MP3 player and let it go balls out to see if it shuts down. If not, problem is the stock deck (low voltage causing shutdown?) or you LOC/eq.... Really, it is simple, you just have to start cutting the system in half and working from there. Be systematic about it, use your head, and you will figure it out or at least narrow it down to a section...

^^ Yep, make sure you use the gauge spec'd. no smaller. If you bought a brand new set of speakers that were $3-4K and opened them up, you would be lucky to find parts of that quality........

I am getting there. I should have all the built in cabinets done this weekend, or at least ready for paint. After that, I will get cracking on the sub install. I already bought alll the supplies, including a forced air vent that matches the rest of the ones in the house for the IB manifold to load through into the livingroom.

I have no idea about your feedback, but telling someone that giving any driver that much power free-air isn't good advice. They will do it at 25Hz and rip the spider....

Don't run the drivers free-air, there is no need to and you can easily damage them. You don't need to break them in. You have no idea how much power you were actually giving them. Clipping has no effect on the spider. If the spider is ripped it is because you exceeded the safe mechanical limits of the driver. This is very easy to do free-air. This is also your fault. Good luck. They might might last forever if you put them in the box, they might get worse...

Any other T/S specs for the Divine?

Just don't forget that port area has nothing to do with box volume when determaining minimum size. This is a myth. Model your vent velocities at your power level to get meaningful sizes...

I am only familiar with the original ones that had the XBL2 motors. If there is a newer or current Avalanche, I know nothing about it. That size box would be OK, you might try and go a tad larger if you could. That would be enough power in most cases. Port area has nothing to do with the box size, only the linear displacement of the drivers and power used. Those will move a lot of air, and you might be a little concerned about using a port too small that will start to introduce compression. Nobody will be able to tell you the vent area needed without knowing the linear displacement and power used and then modeling. If they do tell you as a "rule of thumb", they are talking out thier butt...

CCA is a joke played on car audio people who thick bigger is better.... Buy copper. Whatever the brand.

Yes, I published the clipping test. It was originally on Forceaudio. I think the site is still up. I have been super busy with the rest of the house and am finishing some cabinetry in the living room. I need to get it done before I start the in-walls. I'll keep you guys posted.