slim2fattycake

~2 cuft net tuned to 37hz I tried to mount the sub but for some dumbass reason, re's mounting hole spec is wrong. its like 1/16" too small. Just gotta make the hole bigger and then its done. This box is for a buddy's girlfriend. She has a civic.

I laughed out loud and said exactly what you said, Tirefryr.

I think I got something else out of this than everyone else. Next time, I'll buy CCA. Do understand that this is way overkill for what we do in car audio. 100 amps of current for 30 minutes? Who has the equipment to even handle that. KK's wires are oversized as well so their CCA is the best bang for the buck. "if you compensate for the increased resistance in the CCA cable by going to the next larger gauge size, you'll probably end up with equal or maybe even less resistance than the smaller gauge pure copper."

Duh, its the almight Funky Pups.

psychoacoustics is your answer. And for the question about why bigger subs? its because cone area increase is like power increase, more output. But there are lots of things that can go differently.

ABC x2 if you wanted Tline in the first place. Could use aeroports to save place.

You click on reply right under the post to quote it and then it brings you to another page that you can enter in what you want to say.

Wow, that says a lot. With 2.5 volt output on headunit vs 4 volt output on another headunit, gain at half way is way different with the same amp. search on how to set the gains first. O and not to bust your bubble but even though the birthsheet says 1600 whatever, it doesn't mean shit for your amp. Birthsheets are thrown in with amps and only like 1 out of 100 amps is actually tested for rating. BUT it sounds like you would be best to get a BL

actually, first order of thing to do is NOT get that yellowtop.

I mean if you give them a budget, they will work with the budget to get you the best you want. Let's just say that their alts are really under rated.

custom built to order.

He has an XP from DC Power. No wonder Rob's so busy. He's building alt for other companies.

I thought the XP line was from DC Power?

x2 all that and especially bolded. lol.

Any CAD drawings? This looks weird but I could give a shit less about what the motor looks like if it performs outstandingly.

that is awesome. I forsee fat people lol. PS - It had to be an asian with a british accent.

YOU CANT!

x2 on the image dynamics. Also, OP read up on WHY everyone is telling you to not have speakers in the rear. I'd rather show off how much I know about audio and setting up rather than how much money I got to waste.

you cant

That's tight. I wished I had a suv or a truck bed. I'd do a shit load of these bitches. What's the box recommendations?

Is this for home theater or home audio? Tune it higher for home audio. You don't need it that low.

Just gave them a call. $480 for a 180 amp alternator seems way steep to me. Let's see, my girlfriend's 240 amp alt did 290 amp at ~2k rpm and 160 amp at idle. My alt can take 3k at idle all day with lights and AC on. DC Power's alts are worth every penny. If you buy a shitty alt and it craps out or doesn't do what you want, you going to be spending that and more for the alt you should have gotten the first time.

should have went dc power.

do little by little first. upgrade your wiring and then see what happens. get a DMM and check your voltage. everyone in car audio needs a dmm.

do you get a lot of voltage drop? you don't need another alternator unless your current alt is dying. I wouldn't buy that. Trust me. I have been there. They do less at idle than stock. an extra battery will be more than enough if you have voltage drops.