slim2fattycake

Man, I just hope you guys don't get these subs, not knowing how to set things up, build box with no idea of tuning, and then think bad things about the subs when they go puff. OP, I think what you need is an SSD. You shouldn't pay for a Q if its not going to be used to its potential. The SSD is the entry line for FI but it has plenty of SQ too. Start there and when you know more about car audio, sell it or build onto it. If you're going to build your own box, research and ask people for help. Don't just wing it. Also, I have had a brutus amp and it worked perfectly fine for me. I also had the SSD 12" sub as well.

nvm. i guess i'll wait.

dude, i hope you did your research before buying stuff.

specs on that and price please?

incriminators LI are sold out.

How much for two 10" arsenal subs? If they are near the price of the RE SE subs then I will go with these arsenals.

I will right now. thanks.

See, I'd really want the FI Q 10" subs but those along with the SSD subs are more expensive then the RE SE subs. I have had one 12" FI SSD sub already. I was going to go with two but I don't have the space for it. I know the quality and strength of the SSD. If I got two 10" SSD with copper coils, it would be $348 dollars. If I got two 10" AQ SDC2.5, it would be $300. If I got two 10" RE SE off ebay, I can still have 1 year warranty through the selling company and it would only be $275. I would be saving $73 dollars if I went with the RE SE subs instead of FI SSD subs. Also, I think I am set on getting a sundown saz1500 instead of the us amps md3d. I don't think the extra power would make a big difference. The amount saved on buying a refurbished saz1500 vs a us amps md3d would be much better. PS- Thanks for putting the SSD back in my mind. lol.

anyone? lol.

I bet you won't even notice the "SQ" difference. But if the SSD are equivalent to the SX then I'd go for the SSD because you can add bp option and flatwind coils and still be less than the SX on ebay. I can vouche for the SSD. They do hit hard and they dont mud the beats together either. Very nice sub. I have also heard the BL, its a beast.

I go on CA.com to sell thats it. I tried reading some info or help threads, and I think it made me dumber lol. Welcome though. Sometimes, people on here may seem mean but they are just straight forward and willing to help if you are willing to learn.

partsexpress.com, or ebay.com

Thats nice. Man, I wished I had someone to help with an awesome box like that. Also, I am going to steal that saw of yours. lol.

I am looking at getting two RD Sonance 10" subs or two RE SE 10" subs. I did have the idea of two audioque sdc2.5 10" subs but the RE SE subs had a flatter response in WinSD. They were cheaper too. I just found a good deal on two RD Sonance subs and didn't know much about them so I am asking for help. I am going to build a ~2.5 cubic foot box tuned to 35hz. The amp I am using is going to be either a sundown saz1500 or a us md3d amp. I am just trying to get loud as i can and still have a somewhat flat response. Which 10" subs would work better in this set-up? If anyone else has some subs that they think would work for me then please recommend them. Thank you in advance.

neat.

You can get the bass from using car audio subs with pro audio amps. Don't waste the money on this set-up.

FI Q has 27mm xmax and Fs is 24.9hz for D2 15". Its probably better on your wallet. Just a suggestion. Or the FI IB3 15". It has an xmax of 30mm, but I don't know any other info about it besides that its cheaper than the Q.

hotties with bass! The ladies are making me miss asia all over again.

I had the same options on my SSD 12". It handled 1200 watts perfectly fine in 2 cubic ft. I don't think that amp is going to satisfy you. Don't judge the SSD's loudness with just that amp.

Make sure this is set right or you risk screwing your subs up.

Seriously. And the fact that you want to show off but want to keep the head unit stock so that no one would think you have anything valuable in the car is kind of dumb. They will hear or see you and they will take your stuff. Don't forget about adding a car alarm in the budget too. The stock head units of older cars are not that great at all. My brother was going to replace all his speakers in his car right after I was going replace his head unit. With the new head unit in, he said that the speakers felt like they were actually alive for the first time. So now, he doesn't want to replace the speakers anymore. The head unit will make a world of a difference.

A deka or a powermaster instead of that yellowtop would be what I would change. I would also not go for 28hz tuning for rap music either, assuming this is what you listen to because of your other threads. Its a little low. But like I said, do it and see if you like it.

Dude, just buy those subs you wanted to buy. If you get them and they suit your purpose then okay keep them. If you don't like them then play them out as you save money for some better stuff that everyone is recommending. It sounds like you just want to find out for yourself so go and do what you gonna do. Sometimes, other's advises aren't for you and that you may be okay with low quality products because you don't know any better. It isn't always a bad thing. Also, It may take mistakes to learn something. I started out with two 12" DUAL brand subs from bestbuy. They were fine with me then but I wouldn't even take a second look at them now after using FI and mach5.

looks great man. I may use the unorthodox L shaped-box design like that with my friend's 91 s10 also. Thanks.

Here is a place that will help with the wiring. http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/learningc...=2SVC_4-ohm_4ch