RemixPinoY

By the way forgot to ask, is the address to ship anything damaged and what not the same as FI's address for their money orders?

lol alright Scott it is then X_X

Hi who can I contact about my issue? Do I just call Scott or are there others that are taking care of the AA sector besides him that I should be talking to?

You can get d1's just call in or email and request for them. I have d1's for my 12 havoc's.

It would be going up front, I mean in terms of how well it will sit in the battery tray. I mean, batteries are heavy so I doubt it will move much as it is, but I just want to make sure a fraction of an inch here and there that its not going to slide around. What about a battery tie down kit?

To the OP man if you think your worried try powering up a system with a 3000D LOL!! I have a supra so my electrical is similar to your SC, stock alt. is 110amps. Having a hard time as it is with everything set low low low. So yes man UPGRADE IF YOU CAN! And yeah I can already tell once I upgrade the stock alt and battery they'll be an improvement. Sometimes I notice I cannot get enough power any longer that I just have to stop playing my system because my subs will start quieting down from insufficient power which isn't good. So be sure to upgrade. And I'm with you on battery weight, trying to minimize anything I can if possible, I've heard that extra batteries make your alternator work harder which is bad. Is this true? But I'm guessing since many of you recommend getting more than one battery, an aftermarket one should be heavily built enough to handle the extra load right? Also to the OP have you ever considered running a smaller battery, like the ones they use for cars that track. The batteries that weight like 6-15 pounds, you could use that for your main for your car. And then the heavy fat battery you could put in the rear or front so that you won't gain too much mass.

Glad to know I shouldn't be worried about my 3000D then, almost had me worried but happy to know they run cool already. Thanks Sundown!

It looks like this basically. <a href="http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i35/RemixPinoY/?action=view&current=Picture6762.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i35/RemixPinoY/Picture6762.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> I had everything there taken out and had the box modded to fit 12's from the 10 inch kickers. And the amp that I had swapped for the sundown. I know it's not the best place to mount an amp, but from what I've heard in rattles it wouldn't matter if I put it anywhere else it seems. Not sure so tell me if I'm wrong. As far as rca cables I'll find out today or tomorrow. And I got it from SSaudio AKA Mark off the phone and he had it shipped to me. Also, so since my eletrical is pretty much stock in terms of my alternator, that is the reason why it will not go 2ohm stable right?

yeah that amp isnt a joke its the real deal its no joke you need thick wire, an alt, and multiple batteries lol I have aftermarket wiring for sure, just don't know if it's exactly 0 gauge, I will ask. And yeah I know 110 won't cut it thats why gains are not up, but what I want to know is the ohm stability. Is it only going to do 1ohm if I have a bigger alt and more juice going to it? And do I seriously need multiple batteries??!?!?!?? I talked to Scott and it didn't seem like I would of needed very much, man...

So what do you think, is this amp just very power hungry? If I don't have my alt. upgraded will it just die off in terms of stability at 1omhs? My stock alt. is at 110volts if I recall, and I do plan to upgrade probably around 250-300, overkill I know but I just want to be sure I never have any issues anymore. I have an interstate battery but I guess I need something better like an oddesy.

What Steve said.... What's your electrical upgrades , i.e. : Batts, Alts, Wiring? The 3000 pullls a **itload of power. Are you supplying enough power to feed it enough juice? Just one strong battery, wiring I believe is done. Everything except the alt. has been done. I do plan to upgrade but as now not yet, the lights are fine while driving it's just at idle they dim just a bit. Could that be my issue? Is this amp just very very power hungry? If I do upgrade my alt and still have issues is there anyway I can rma this amp as far as I know I don't recall any warranty, I'll read up on that right now. And what about the amp noise, driving me nuts!

I have this head unit http://www.nextag.com/pioneer-7900 Not that one exactly but the one lower than that, it didn't come with USB. Only feature I recall it did not come with. I'll have to ask my installer tomorrow what the volts are, but the amp is giving me enough power for my needs at 4ohms but I just want to find out if it's bad or not in case I ever go with more bass.

But the amp goes into protection at 2ohms... And he has it at 1/2 way up on the gain with the subs at 4omhs. So is it just something he missed or is the amp just not cut out for 2omhs but can do 1omhs? That sounds wrong though if true. And as I read on forums it says to add dynamat in the amp and rubber washers and etc although I don't think it will fix the problem.

Hey everyone I'm, having issues right now with my amp. I don't know too much about wiring and etc but my installer says that the amp I have isn't stable at 2ohm's and won't try 1ohm for fear of blowing the amp. It's stable at 4ohms but thats it, so right I have no idea what to do about it. Is the amp just bad? I ordered it almost two months ago but just installed it today and forgot to even see if I had a warranty when purchasing. Also the amp as it is now is pushing two AA havoc 12's in a sealed box and the amp is just rattling BAD. Like real real bad were it's so annoying and loud that everyone can hear it. So whats going on? Is this amp just bad in both it's stability and metal casing? Please I need help.... Thanks!

How so? I thought they just pushed more power and were built with more tolerance in mind.

Ahh I see thanks! I like listening to classics like the beatles, I like some rock and metal, hip hop, laid back hip hop. Basically everything, so I'm hoping with this sealed set up that lighter stuff will be nice and tight sounding and if I ever need more bass for the rap and what not I have my 3000d to take care of that. So okay I'll take to my installer about getting it as close as possible to recommended air space if I don't like it. Because I know it'll be a bit bigger than needed. By the way has anyone ever added a removable beauty board? I'm redoing my box as you see in the picture to the point where the floor and panels I had on the side of the box will be removed for my trunk space. And I'll have a flat board put on top of this to flush the box to height with everything else. And I guess if I need more space if I'm traveling I can remove the side panels to fit back packs and bags and etc, anyone done this before?

Alright I got the two subs going back into my old box which is being rebuilt right now. We've guessed that it's internal displacement is about 3.0 to 3.4 cubic net. So with the two subs taking up about .34 cubic net. Both subs will have around 2.66-3.1 for total air displacement. I know it's a bit out of the recommended spec of around 1-1.2 cubic net. But will it be really really off in terms of how it should sound sealed up? And if I did have to downsize what can I do with my box to downsize it's total internal air volume? Would adding material make any difference? I've been told pollyfill could do that and make the set up sound nicer, but I thought the pollyfill would only make the subs work as if it were in a larger enclosure? Is there anything I can do to correct the air volume?

Probably wired wrong.

I second this!

It's sealed right now around 3.0-3.2 cubes. Really 2.8 for two 12's ported wow small box haha, so it's pretty flat response? So it would be pretty similar to a sealed enclosure I take it + the extra boom. I'm debating so much about sealed and ported. To top it all off my shop sucks, been 4 months and giving me so much BS on completion on all this. Is that 2.2 for just one driver or is that for two? And could you fill me in on QTC, not too knowledgeable in that aspect. I'm guessing it's the frequency responses spiking in my car? Hmm now you got me interested in ported, always thought I'd need at least 4 cubes if not more, but if 2.8 can pull it off I may go with that if possible...

I'm still confused with amps and wiring, I thought I'd need 2000 watts to power these subs? 1000 watts a piece per sub right? Wouldn't 1400 be underpowering them at 700 watts a piece at best? You don't need a kW to power a Q. When I auditioned one, 700W was perfect... The amp works the same whether or not the gain setting is set at full, or barely turned.JIMJ- so if 700W is enough for a 12Q why would my US AMPS AX600DE ( which Flakko says will put out 800W ) not be enough? just curious. sorry in advance for hi-jacking the thread. After talking to Scott, 700 watts should be fine, it's not too bad, it won't get it as loud as it can go. But it will work fine without any issues. Anyway guys got my Havocs, and my sundown amp soo, still debating on final displacement. Do I keep my 3-3.2 cubic net box or am I better off downsizing it? If two havocs are perfect at 2.4 cubic net, havocs should be too??? Or here,let me say this, is there any advantage with going smaller like 2.2-2.6 cubic net over my current 3.0-3.2 cubic net box or will it be a disadvantage? Or is my 3.2 cubic net box the best as it is now? And with the subs inside which take what .1 cubic net a piece it's going to be 2.8-3.0 for total displacement correct?

Your probably going to have to go used.

I got a 3000d, going to power 2 havoc 12's, will see how that is, it's going to be sealed enclosure, 2-3 cubes.

Ya I can't, well I could but then I'd have a useless trunk really. So I got my 3000d in the mail, I am going to run two batteries, will my stock 100 amp alt be okay with two batteries to power a 3000d, 2 12's, plus a RF 400 watt amp?

Hmm I'm still debating, I've never heard a great system in ported form, I've only experienced those sony subs and etc. And I'm still not sure how a sealed enclosure would really stack against a ported one if both were made up of quality components. Anyway I'm leaning more toward SQ than SPL, and I'd like to make the smallest enclosure possible for my car since my Supra doesn't have a deep trunk being it's a sports car hatch. So sealed makes much more sense right? I love ported enclosures but for my car I don't think it'll make too much sense, especially since it's small and 2 12's pushing 3000 watts in a sports car would overkill my front stage I think anyway. Sealed I think I'll get by, and I listen to a lot of music not just hip hop so I want to have best of both worlds. I think my 3000 watts will make up for the inefficiency of my sealed enclosure versus a lower powered ported enclosure.