BILTD

What volume will each sub have then?

Assuming thats for 2 subs?

Any mention of a subsonic filter?

You need to put a 90 deg. bend on the port. I figured you would know about that. Bad assumption on my side. Example above.

Yep, that'll cause some issues. Port is meant to be 2.5" in width. Same applys for spacing off the back walls.

Box is tuned to 46hz? Been designing enclosures for many yrs now, thats VERY far off what i designed it to do. Must be a mistake in the construction.

I know those amps, and no you won't need it. If you had something around 1500wrms per sub I would defo look at the the BP option. Make sure things are scoped clean and they'll be fine

Looks good Patrick!

I bet that can do a good hair trick! Looks loud man

Check the spiders to see if there is any signs of the tinsel leads burning through. This would suggest the system was clipping. Otherwise, very odd!

Looking good. Enclosure size and tuning freq? Vent looks pretty big

Remember the vent goes on the front side of the box, toward the tailgate. The dimensions for the vent also happens to be the internal height of the enclosure, so its a straight forward slot port with a 90 deg bend

Think I sent you a design

No problem send us an e-mail and i'll have a closer look for you.

Hi Patrick, Thanks for your order. Can you let us know what sort of working range you need for the sub? 25-65hz? 30-65hz? I like BTL15s in 4.5-5cubes tuned from 28-32hz.

Mmmmmmm check out that 1ft long split gap former in the first pic

Nice test. The results can swing either way to depending on the car to. The Q will have a higher Fs than the original T/S suggest since theres an extra spider with the BP upgrade, so thats going to reflect on the peak note a little. A stock Q is about the same if not peakier lower than the Havoc. For this test It would have been real good to have a std Q driver. I've tested this side by side. Sonically found pretty much the same as you. However an abused test, the Q held up a little better (with BP) mechincally.

Yep, theres a rubber boot for the BTLs

Rms coil ratings aren't too important in when determining how much power a subwoofer "needs", in my opinion. Heck, I'm using an old xxx on 400w and I can get it to rattle my room apart. I even used it in the car on 2 channels of a kx350.4 and played way over what I can call decent. Funny thing is, if he gets the BL now and upgrades to a much more powerfull amp in the future, he's going to be ask himself why he didn't buy the BTL in the first place... Totally agree with you. If he is looking for more power later down the line, the BTLs a better future proof sub

BL or BTL will work just fine. The BL is a real tight sounding sub so should be pretty decent for rock metal and dance music. I would probabaly go for the BL myself, i know the power of those Mutant amps and its not really going to tickle the BTL.

Pretty good going, how much more power are they getting with the new amps?

The IB2 uses a smaller motor and 2" coil. Cheaper alternative to the IB3, but by no means a slouch in the performance stakes

With the input power being much less than an in-car application, you won't need that much port area Little less on the port area will make the longer port length more managable

3 cubes tuned low is what you want. You wont have the cabin gain to help you with the low notes so thats about the easiest solution. I'd also look at a TL setup if you have the room.