rastaman

I take paypal :drink40: 20 years for this fine specimen of a man today!

14.4 x 60 = 864, assuming 80% efficiency, as it's a class d, total power output would be about 700 watts. Try lowering your gains, it sounds like you are clipping it.

sounds cool , thanks Receipts IMO are kind of redundant. Fi is the only place you can get Fi subs, unless you buy used. Ditto on the above...wang away.

I'd recommend porting, but that is just me. What do you want out of the system? Loud and boomy, or detailed? If you have the room, I'd suggest porting @ 32 hz. Its a good balance between loudness and quality.

I always figured SSD was something like "Solid Street Driver" and Q...quality. Dur. Bl and BTL....bacon lettuce, bacon tomato lettuce. Come on now.

Q's are really a sealed box driver, and it would be easier to fit a sealed box in a pickup due to size.

Sounds good, but I'd recommend you unhook the wires at the amp, not the sub, when you remove the box. Removes any chance of a short.

I bet you have it wired to 1 ohm. Wire it to 4 ohms and run it bridged.

14.4v x 80a = 1152 at 100% efficiency, assuming its a class d at 80%, that amp could only push 920 watts before blowing fuses. Even still, your system probably doesn't even do 14.4 constantly, most likely 13.8. 4K is far off. Don't look at peak ratings!

When you add a subwoofer with speakers and a deck to a cooler for the beach when you change your 3 month old setup, sell it at a loss, offer to build the guy his box and install it for him, all the while redoing your own setup

"I fudgeIN LOVE DRIVING!"

winISD...works well and it's free.

Thanks. I'll be throwing like 1.2k watts at it. It won't be hard to see. The magnet will be hanging between my seats:) I got the port built today..went with a slot port 1.5x9 inches, about 20" long, around 35 hz.

That's ghey...they must have alot of confidence in their customers install ability and the quality of their amps!!

The fuse on the power wire isn't there to protect your amps, it's there to protect the wire. The fuses on the amp protect the amp. The wire for the comp amp, if under 2 feet, doesn't have to be fused, the chances of it causing a short are very small. 200 watts could run on 8 gauge. The 4 is overkill, so the wire won't be taxed hard at all.

Type R's are only rated for 500 watts. So you could buy two Type R's and use the full potential of your amp, or go to the Q which will be just as loud, if not louder, and sound much better.

Just some piccy's of my box build. 1.2 cubes ported at 35 hz. Haven't figured out if I'm going to do a slot or a round port. I've done the calcs for both in winISD and I'm ready to do whichever one is easier. Trusty table saw! And a piece of wood. Stack of wood and toolboxes... My blue prints. I am a engineer, after all! This is where its at right now. I'm thinking about the port and whatnot. The top will be skinned with a 1/8th wood, I forget what it's called at the moment, it's in some of the pictures. It'll have foam on top and covered with black vinyl, it's the new center console in my pickup. Sub placement will be a little different, but when I get to that point I'll show you! My grandma gave me a nailgun for my birthday...how SICK is that?! My memories of my stopped-but-not-forgotten drag racing days. More updates this week.

why do you want two sets of comps? get a good set for the front, feed them good clean power and you'll be laughing.

Sucks about the finger, at least you still have it. You should close all the doors and send in the pic of hoopty plugged in to Greenpeace and say you made a hybrid 'lade.

Radio - Big & Rich

Currently in my 02 RCSB GMC Sierra Pioneer 6800MP PG 250.2 (speaker) Alpine type R comps Hifonics Bxi 1606D (subs) 2 Fi SSDs 4 cubes ported at 33 hz no rear fill because it's teh gay New system Premier 880PRS Cadence 3002 (speakers) PG Ti6 Elite comps Cadence 1000D (sub) Fi BL 10 @ 35 hz in 1.2 cubes Fully deadened. still no rear fill:)

I ordered a BL on the weekend, and got an answer on Sunday. I live in Canada so I can't order off the website. I ordered my sub(10" BL) and forgot to state the impedance. So in the email back he tells me what it'll cost, and asks me what impedance I want. This is Scott BTW. I tell him D1, because I was in a rush and completely blanked. Ever done that? I'm at work thinking "you cant wire d1 to 1 ohm..." kind of freaking out. I get home, email Scott, get an answer that says "we already started, but we'll just put the motor away for the next order. no problem." How SICK is that? C/S at it's pinnacle right there! The build will probably start next week while I'm off work for my wisdom teeth so I'll take pics and toss em up here for you all to either enjoy or laugh at! In conclusion: Fi Rules.

i read the bathroom reader part about dracula...but i prefer spiderman.

ive done the big three and i have 3 kinetic batteries. i just need to know how big of an alternator (amps) ok well, first off add all the fuses up on your amp(s). try to get an amp close to it. a little under is ok, unless your playing tones or pink you'll never pull max amperage out of it anyways.

chances are you'll need more then just a bigger alt...think more batts and big three as well