dropkick13

What am I looking for?

The JBL's RMS is 1200 watts, so yes I have some head room but I'm only running it at about 1/2 - 2/3 gain. Yes it does kind of seem like a rattle but I'm using machine screws with T nuts so I would imagine it should be pretty secure in its down firing box. Sounds like you have some ideas though.

I'm also worried about how crisp it hits. Right now it's a little 'sloppy'. I hear some vibration coming from the sub like it's hitting and then the momentum is so great that it cant stop itself so it gets kind of sloppy...does that make sense?

I have about 2 cubes under my seat (ext cab truck) pre sub/port. Could you describe what the difference in sound would be?

Right now I have a RL-p12 powered by a JBL BP1200.1 in a 1.35 cube sealed box. I want to build a ported box just because I never have before and I'm ready for a change. I have a max of about 2 cubes to work with. Can anyone describe the difference in sound between a higher and lower tuned frequency? I'm a bit of a bass head that listens to a lot of really fast bass (metal w/ double bass, punk) and I love feeling the thud into my back every time the bass pedal hits. What frequency should I shoot for, or perhaps there's more to the equation that I should look at?

Yes but the screen name is coincidence. Dropkick was a dumb nick name I picked up in high school but I'm not really creative when making up a screen name so...voila heh

I have not yet deadedned as I'm waiting for a little money to come my way. I made my own baffles and used modeling clay to fill any voids. So you think I need catch the higher frequencies? What if I built a ported box?

I have a few questions about how to obtain the sound I like from the equipment I have: -Avic D3 head unit -PRS 720's speakers running passive off a JL 300/4 -RL-p12 w/ 1.35 cu ft sealed powered by a JBL 1200.1 ...and I have an 06 Silverado ext cab I have been running this set up for about a year now and I enjoy it but I feel like I could get more from it. My complaints: The factory Bose front and rear speakers really filled the truck with sound. Now with the Pioneers (only having front speakers), the truck doesn't sound as full, if that makes sense. I mean that I can hear the music coming straight from the speaker as if it were a direct line to my ear rather than before where it sounded like the music was coming from everywhere. I also would like my bass to be tighter. I'll admit to being a bit of a bass head but I don't like the heavy, long bass notes that end up rattling everything in my truck including my ear drums. I do like the real tight punch that comes from the bass drum and I like that to be nice and loud. I listen to a decent amount of punk/metal and nothing beats the feel from a song w/ double bass cranked up so that it feels like I am on a long flight w/ a crying 4 year old behind me kicking my seat. What can I do about these two 'problems'? I imagine there's a lot of options: speaker placement, running active, head unit settings, amp settings, and as far as the bass goes, I am probably going to build a ported box anyway so what should I tune to? I really only have a max of about 1.8 to 2 cubes to work with for space though. Would sound deadening help? Thanks guys

yes but shy away from the cheap POS thin, gold plated crap. You want a heavy duty, industrial copper lug. Aluminum would be an ok substitute. Also make sure you properly crimp the lug. you should be able to pull on the lug with all your strength and not get it off. For the ground, make sure you find the frame. Just use a bolt with washers, nuts, and maybe a star washer for extra bite into the metal. Clean the metal, sand it down, throw tons of dialectric grease on there and then secure your ground. Hit it with some underbody coating to keep the moisture and junk out.

Clear your PM's haha Sorry for who ever wasted their time opening this thread. I'm in the middle of an install and getting some 'live' help from Sean.

I had to write a quick argument for or against some hippy article on everyone's favorite topic: feel free to bash!!!! (cutting halfway into it) The other huge problem with the price of oil is that it is traded in American dollars. Unfortunately, the value of the American dollar is falling. Thus, it does not make sense to trade something in American dollars because what you give up grows in value, while what you got in return falls in value. So to account for this, companies have begun trading goods for oil, transforming oil from a commodity to a currency. As we all know, once something becomes a currency, it is subject to inflation. When less oil is distributed, there becomes less of the currency and then each drop of oil becomes vastly over valued. As the article points out, the bulk of the current oil reserves are controlled by hostile powers. Therefore, those powers control the amount of oil that is sold and the price becomes inflated. By opening up our own oil reserves, we circumvent the hostile states and lessen their power to control the market. Then, they have to release more, at a lower price, to compete with American oil. Once that happens, we can actually lessen our own drilling and use our reserves as leverage any time the foreign powers threaten to squeeze the market again. With the hippies in office though, the foreign powers know that we won't do our own drilling and they have carte blanche to do whatever they want with the market. What the democrats have actually done is taken a nation that is founded on the principals of lassez-faire economics and created an international market that is controlled by the state. The worst part is that they have ceeded state control to other nations and taken the backseat. We have now become the self-created proletariat. It runs antithesis to any conventional economic and social theory. We have actually chosen to be poor and oppressed instead of the ruling authority. It would be as if a homeless guy on the street has waterfront property in Annapolis, but chooses not to live there because he doesn't want to upset the deer. That is why when I rule the world we will hunt with oil drills and kill as many cute animals as possible.

What's the difference? Could you give an example of each?

Back to the sound deadening: what exactly is this 'open cell' as opposed to 'closed cell' foam that I've read about. I want open correct? Is it just simply the egg crate you can buy for mattress pads? Since I'm cheap, I thought about stuffing my back wall (Silverado ext cab) 100% full of this egg crate material in addition to a layer of raamat. I'll need to hit the floor with something too but might have to use second skin since egg crate will be too....uh..... poofy. edit* woops, I see I want to use closed cell although I'm still not sure what the difference is or examples of what closed cell foams are.

Will a 3/4" baffle be a lot more beneficial to a 1/2". I assume the short answer is 'yes', but with a 1/2" baffle I could use a little more modeling clay to try to make up for some of the decreased mass

You might have to cut the door metal slightly to accommodate for the larger diameter. But its not big deal I used a jigsaw, cut like butter. You can check out my build to see how I fit the C6's in my doors... http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...mp;#entry393510 I'm trying to leave my truck so it can go back to stock if need be. I havn't peeled off my door cover yet but I'm hoping I have at least enough room for a 1/2" MDF ring for a baffle

I'm going to throw a little behind my front mid bass speakers and then my next attempt will be to minimize my loud exhaust and road noise, so I guess the floor and back wall. Perhaps even rear doors?

what do you use to absorb airborn soundwaves?

I know less than my dog about audio but coming onto a very respectable audio forum saying you 'want to set off car alarms' is like joining an NRA board and saying you want a gun that you could take out your co-workers with. But for the little advice I do have, the JL 1000/1 is a great amp that will power a lot of great subs so you can bounce around subs until you find one you like (buy used).....or buy my JL 13w7 for $550 and you'll knock over joggers w/ your bass

guess this is not a hot topic

Passive vs Active: - Sean really feels I should go active. Can't I still use the EQ on my D3 to tune the speakers whether I have the passive cross over or not? - I've asked this before but I forget the answer, what's the ideal speaker wire size to use? - Sean, that tutorial was extremely helpful, especially when my funds come in for sound deadening (can't wait to get rid of exhaust/road noise). So let me get this straight: Raamat is used for resonance so I assume its a mass dampener, and ensolite is open cell foam which absorbs 'sound waves' out of the air correct? Then I'll probably fiberglass over openings in the door. I do have a question about the baffles you made. How did you secure the baffle to the metal door? It looked like it was only held by the modeling clay but I assume you ran some screws through the door right? - I think my biggest worry about the install will be running the speaker wires from amp to head unit. Currently I have a scosche wire harness to allow the D3 to work w/ the BlOSE. I got scammed on the harness however. The ignition wire stays hot no matter what so I had to rig a switch to kill power when I get out of my truck...looks terrible. Anyway, with the new speakers, I should be able to get rid of my harness but I did not do the D3 install. When I rip out the harness, where will each D3 / speaker wire from amp need to be connected to each other? I also need a new ground location because I'm getting terrible engine noise (that annoying hum), any recommendations? Also, I had originally planned on leaving in the rear bose speakers and fading them out, except for when I have rear passengers. I'm assuming that once I remove the harness, the rears won't work right? Not a big loss there but just making sure there's nothing worth my time that I can do to keep the rears. Thanks guys, sorry I have so many small, annoying questions

Well as Sean knows, I've been beating myself up over what speakers to replace my Blose in my 06 Silverado. Some of these questions are truck specific that I know Sean will be able to answer and the rest I'm sure theres a handful of you that can chime in. I finally am deciding on the Pioneer 720prs's but have very little knowledge in what to do for the install. -The bose are 6.5's and the 720's are 6.75's so I'm not sure what I'll need to do exactly to fit the 720's - I have a JL 300/4 and a Avic D3 for the speakers to pair up with, but what exactly will I need to do? Is it as simple as: -take out old speakers, screw in new (or will I need to make a baffle out of MDF or something?) -solder stock wires to new speakers -run speaker wire to amp from speakers, power/ground amp, remote/rca's to head unit. I'm a newb to the whole passive vs active cross overs.... If I choose to run active, what changes in the install? Do I need to buy extra parts?

he said he is just unhappy with the sub's output. I have not heard it however. He wants an enclosure that wont take up any trunk space so there are some big time space restrictions. CDT does not have any recommended specs for this sub in a ported

I'm not too sure about that current enclosure. So you think that CDT sub has potential for some output?

A friend of mine just finished a fairly low budget system in his subaru and he's unhappy with how is lows turned out so he wants me to help him out (sadly, I know more than he does). He says he wants more output, but I know that he is also not a mega bass head. currently he is running a cdt es sq-80 on a Alpine pdx 600.1. He didn't really know what he was buying when he bought an 8" built for SQ. He used this thread to build himself the same box: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/sh...ead.php?t=23261 He was hoping the box was his downfall but I'm telling him he should probably scrap the sub and the box. I think he can build a box to fit inside the wheel of the spare that should suffice. He's getting back to me with dimensions but I have a feeling he'll need something pretty shallow and not a air space hog. If it's as shallow as I'm thinking, I'm going to recommend the new BM but I feel bad recommending a sub solely on reputation. how is the alpine amp that he has? you guys think that original box is a joke? does that 8" sub he has have any potential of a delivering some decent output? I'm going to make up dimensions for now and say he has 5-6" of mounting depth and about .7 cu ft to work with...what you all think?

What about a JBL BP1200.1 .... I got mine used (but great condition) for $170 shipped. It's rated 1200w rms @ 2ohm. Would that work for him?