dropkick13

que? Did you wire both the + to the amp on the + side and the - to the -? I believe they are wired in parallel. I'll double check with him though

que? He complained earlier about some interior light problems he was having (not sure on specifics) from when he changed the map lights and dome light to led's. I think the problem is that they are very dim without the engine out. Maybe you guys are onto something with this bad battery nonsense....never knew that would cause noise.

Good to hear. I was just worried that the insulation might be unsafe or that there would be some kind of tin/aluminum thrown in with the copper which would affect the thermal capacity. welcome back Sean, you got a few PM's waiting for you haha

I always have in the past but I'm starting to upgrade to more and more powerful systems. The price difference between a run of 1/0 from ebay, to knu conceptz, to using welding wire is a huge. Anyone know if the ebay stuff has the same copper content and adequate insulation?

not sure how to post pics. Space was an issue, you'll see what I mean if I can get you pics. hmmm good question. I apologize but this will be a pretty slow moving thread. I have to forward your questions and advice to my brother and wait for him to respond.

I built my bro a box to house two CDT EF 8" subs. The box is tiny but meets the minimum recommended volume. If the bass is turned up much, whether it be by volume knob, gain, or bass knob, the subs have a high pitched electronic noise. This goes away if one sub is taken out. The only thing I can think of is that the 3" of space between the two magnets is not enough and are causing distortion. Any other possibilities? Oh yea, the subs face away from eachother so the magnets are back to back.

I did too....in fact, I bought such an economically friendly 'car' that uncle sam gave me a $350 tax return last year..... .....I get 16 mpg in my new silverado but hey, it CAN run on ethynol!!!! ***woops, i said economically friendly...heh...quite the opposite.... 'Enviornmentally'

Sounds like an amazing time. What part of Md are you from? (other than northeast). I'm from Annapolis...just curious.

very true

hah yea that would be just fine, especially if it saves me a dollar. I think I might try to build one anyway just for the fun and experience. If I get yours, I can just try to mimic it except I want to use some fiberglass just to learn it. what's your plan for the new box? Cut PVC at the hump? not just that, but fit the trans hump a little better. maybe paint instead of carpet, or bed liner. like sean mentioned, i really like to change things up quite often. btw, i'll pm you a price a bit later on today. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee No rush. I had a similar idea for the boxes I built for my MTX Black Gold's. I used a high impact black spray paint. Came out looking really nice. Had the same textured look of spray bed liner with a little white too. Problem was that every time cargo or a passenger kicked the box, paint would chip. I'm sure bed liner would look great, won't chip, and the texture of it will make it so you don't have to putty/sand any screw holes or any flaws. flaws?????? hush your mouth child. just kidding. but for real, textured paint/finish does indeed allow for a little leeway in outside finishing. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee hah, yes flaws! Even you can't avoid them all. I was painting another box and when I went inside to let the coat dry, I came back out and found that a bird did not appreciate my work as much as I did. Shat right on it.

hah yea that would be just fine, especially if it saves me a dollar. I think I might try to build one anyway just for the fun and experience. If I get yours, I can just try to mimic it except I want to use some fiberglass just to learn it. what's your plan for the new box? Cut PVC at the hump? not just that, but fit the trans hump a little better. maybe paint instead of carpet, or bed liner. like sean mentioned, i really like to change things up quite often. btw, i'll pm you a price a bit later on today. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee No rush. I had a similar idea for the boxes I built for my MTX Black Gold's. I used a high impact black spray paint. Came out looking really nice. Had the same textured look of spray bed liner with a little white too. Problem was that every time cargo or a passenger kicked the box, paint would chip. I'm sure bed liner would look great, won't chip, and the texture of it will make it so you don't have to putty/sand any screw holes or any flaws.

hah yea that would be just fine, especially if it saves me a dollar. I think I might try to build one anyway just for the fun and experience. If I get yours, I can just try to mimic it except I want to use some fiberglass just to learn it. what's your plan for the new box? Cut PVC at the hump?

That's not a bad idea just having Kent throw one together for me but the whole low budget thing comes back into play. Plus, i got a pretty good connection at Home Depot as long as I don't abuse it too much so even fiberglass shouldn't run me much. But Kent, I guess if you offer, let me know a quote for what you think a box from you would run me shipped to 21035. Kent, someone does make a seat lift kit but I believe it's pretty over priced for what you are actually getting. Nice kit from what I heard. The clips are perfect length so that you can fold the back of the seat down too. I gotta hit the rack right now but I'll try to track it down for you tomorrow. You guys need to learn how to repair amps. I can't even sell this blown viper as a paper weight.

I'll probably just try and do everything right the first time. Like I said before, I'll be tackling this project over xmas break so I should have a good 3 weeks to work on it. If I just whack out an MDF box and I'm not happy, I won't be able to rebuild till the summer. But then again, if I can't get the volume then I'll have no choice but to go the 1/2" MDF route. I saw a seat lifter kit that gets an extra 2.5" With that, I should be golden. Yes I know I don't need the kit to lift the seat but remember I cut those dam tabs on the back and the kit comes with longer tabs. Sean, do you agree with Kent's alternative sub selection?

That's good to know. Since I am buying used, that will help me expand my selection and try to get a better deal. Sean, I'm waiting on you to chime in on this though. I almost bought the MAW's instead of the Diymas...o well...figures.

That looks really good. Unless I run into a time crunch (which is very possible), I'll probably stick to fiberglassing the bottom to get over the hump even if I only fiberglass over the hump and leave MDF for the rest of the bottom underneath driver/passenger sides. I'm excited to try my hand at it and learn something new and it will look that much cleaner (assuming I don't suck). I think I could handle something like that though. You don't have any pictures of the port from inside do you?

Did you use fiberglass at all or did you just make kind of a trapezoid over the hump with MDF? Also, are all these different applications using the same amp? I've always been told to never use anything less than 3/4" MDF but I have no experience with anything else so I'll let Sean argue with that. Using 1/2" would definitely make it easier to reach a desired volume though. Interesting about the two 10's in a ported box. What were those? How much airspace did they end up with? As for the L7's....out of my budget. One of the tough limitations I have with this set up is that I'm pretty strapped. I am trying to sell two brand new Diyma 12's. Basically whatever I get for those is what I'll have to spend on sub/s. I have a blown Viper amp that I'm trying to sell and I'll use that money plus like $100-$150 for an amp, and obviously I plan on building my box. So yea, money and airspace are my limitations but you seem to think airspace won't be a problem. Hopefully you are correct. it's all wood, no glass. and in my truck, i've had as many amps in there as i've had subs, lol. it's my test bed, kinda. as far as 3/4" vs 1/2", i'd use 3/4" all day, every day if one could get the desired volume with it. however, trucks are a different beast, and getting the necessary volume isn't always easy. with a good build and a solid brace (s), 1/2" mdf will work in alot of situations where it's just not plausible to use anything thicker. as far as flexing goes, if all that does is had a bit of peakiness to it, then (as i'm sure sean will agree) if your after output, it's not a bad thing necessarly. if the box is built properly, it'll last. the two 10" box housed memphis hpo and then m3s. ~1cube each tuned about 35-36hz with a 3" port. for a basshead, it sounds great, for a sq guy like sean, it would be peaky and a bit overwhelming compared to the rest of the system. i'll see if i can't find thsoe pics.... wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee Im probably in between a basshead and an SQ guy then. What I told Sean is that basically I want some subs that can play fast, clean, and keep up with my double bass in the punk music which I listen to often but I still really like to have that deep, loud, vibrating the hairs on the back of your neck bass for my reggae and I even like that for some metal. So with that said, Sean recommended something along the lines of a Fi Q 12" ported tuned to 35hz. So that's where we're at now, except I'm learning a whole lot and real fast so I have not yet committed to buying anything. I've been leaning on Sean to help me pick out a good deal on somethin. If you want to help too, I'm all for it and I appreciate it

Did you use fiberglass at all or did you just make kind of a trapezoid over the hump with MDF? Also, are all these different applications using the same amp? I've always been told to never use anything less than 3/4" MDF but I have no experience with anything else so I'll let Sean argue with that. Using 1/2" would definitely make it easier to reach a desired volume though. Interesting about the two 10's in a ported box. What were those? How much airspace did they end up with? As for the L7's....out of my budget. One of the tough limitations I have with this set up is that I'm pretty strapped. I am trying to sell two brand new Diyma 12's. Basically whatever I get for those is what I'll have to spend on sub/s. I have a blown Viper amp that I'm trying to sell and I'll use that money plus like $100-$150 for an amp, and obviously I plan on building my box. So yea, money and airspace are my limitations but you seem to think airspace won't be a problem. Hopefully you are correct.

ah right, like farting with your cheeks pinched

back to the box, I should be able to get the job done with my space restrictions if i use 1/2" MDF for the port? How thick will the fiberglass face be when finished? I think the 10" MDF (3/4") sealed boxes I made allowed for a mounting depth of 6.5" but probably could have made them slightly bigger so say 6.75"

SQ freak....no fun hmmmm....sealed would be a lot easier. How much output are those Diyma's good for? They got to be better than the MTX black gold's I was running Not so sure about that, they are severely output limited and regrettably when you turn them up and run them hard they fail. They aren't so nice at letting you know their limits. Well hopefully they will become someone else's burden soon. Those black golds are pretty nice little subs. They exceeded my expectations by far....of course...just wasn't enough. Ever hear them?

SQ freak....no fun hmmmm....sealed would be a lot easier. How much output are those Diyma's good for? They got to be better than the MTX black gold's I was running

What would Sean do? Just sacrifice the 3/4" and use 1/2" MDF for the port? Or you think I should go with a smaller port area and hope luck is on my side with no port noise?

I'm about to start my first ported box as well but I'm still in the learning stage. What is 'port noise' ? Box looks good, hope my build will run smooth too