ABXX49

I also notice lower xmax. but the sensitivity is 2DBs higher. Too many people are preoccupied by numbers. This BL will be better. Why would they have redesigned it to make it worse?

Are you sure you bought a BTL and not a BL?

I wouldn't touch it. But with you budget, it's going to be hard to find a decent amp. Any problems buying used? That's your best bet.

TNuts FOR THE WIN. Seriously, they are so nice. Take quite a bit more work than regular screws, but if you frequently take out your sub it's the only way to go in my opinion. You don't have to worry about stripping out your holes. Don't buy them from Lowes though, so freaking expensive. You'll probably need a main battery and 1-2 cells in your trunk. I'd upgrade the front and add one cell and see where your voltage sits. If it's below 12, you definitely need to add another.

That's a pretty damn good number for a trunk car!

Yep......IA10.1 will be 900@1ohm rms, but you know how we rate things So about 450ish at 2ohms?

Comparing drivers in the same price range, most probably.

You're going to want to pick an amp out first. You'll probably want one that does power between 1500-2500 watts. Search around for one and then we can tell you what voice coil configuration you want. Your electrical will depends on your vehicle and amplifier you choose.

What does it matter how big they are?

If you're putting more than 1000 watts to a stock BL, you are overpowering them. They are rated for 1000 watts. If it's loaded, this is a different story.

It's normal for them to get a little warm.

You should be able to hear something. Pull a/both sub(s) and take a look at them. Push on the cone lightly and listen for a scratching sound. Put a DMM in the terminals and check to make sure you don't have an open one. Look in at the coil, see if it's black at all. Check and make sure you're tinsel leads are in tact. All of those problems should be VERY evident before you look at them. If none are present I can't think of anything else. Maybe check your box and make sure it's not broke somewhere. I doubt this, but it's another possibility. Or you can go get it metered again and see if you're actually going deaf!

The mustang had the same exact problem, but it only did it sometimes not all the time and sometimes the windows wouldn't even work at all. Same thing here. Not all the time, only sometimes.

Also, at idle with my windows all the way up, if I hit the up button on the window and hold it, my car nearly stalls out. Could this be related to above said problem?

I hope to God this is what is wrong. I'm reading about bad ignition modules and it might be the answer to my other problem! When my car gets hot it wants to stall out sometimes. When I'm at low RPM my car wants to stall out. I'm reading that these might be a sign of a bad ignition module. I've been trying to figure this out for months, so maybe my problems will be fixed! *Note: This probably isn't the case, as my life never seems to by straight forward or easy. One can always hope for a change of pace though.

Woah?! Updates?

Had to catch up on like 4 pages of the Hop today. Anyways, got the 'Bird washed and waxed today. Looks damn good for such old paint!

By wiggle, do you mean like turn it on and off, but not all the way? Just wiggle it that way?

Alright, I'll give that a try tomorrow.

How would I test for a bad ignition?

Sealed box and loud DO NOT go together. Build a ported box.

Now put an amplifier on your door speakers and you'll really be surprised at the change.

Any ideas?

Okay, let me start off by saying I've installed a countless number of CD players in cars. This is the first one I've had trouble with, and also my first Pioneer. I bought an 880 off of ebay a while back for about $200. I initially installed it in Octoberish. It would work fine when I normally had the car running, but when I switched my lights on it would cut in and out every second. I attributed this to a couple of wires being switched. (The first wiring diagram I had was wrong.) Well I eventually got this fixed by switching the two wrong wires. My CD player would now work with lights on and off. However, when I would switch from on to off my CD player would cut out for a second and restart itself. It would then play fine. (The other problem is that my CD player seems to have no track memory. It remembers my fade and volume settings though.) New problem tonight. I took my father back to the nursing home tonight in the 'Bird. I took him inside and got him situated and took off when he fell asleep. About an 1-1.5 hours. (Worked fine on the ride over.) I went back out to my car and turn my key but my car made no effort to start, not even a click. So I returned the key to the off position and cranked again and it fired up as normal. I turned the CD player on and it worked for like one second and then turned off. At this time I had my lights on. It would then restart, beep 3-4 times, and then open the faceplate up. It wouldn't eject the disk, rather it would just sit there, open. Within 10 seconds or so it would close itself, try to turn on, beep, and open up again. It did this nearly the whole way home, but eventually quit. And by quit I mean quit. It just sat black. I get home and restart my car. My CD player would work if I had my lights off, but if I turned them on it would do the beep and open thing again. I figured I might have a voltage issue? Well I ran downstairs and got my DMM. At the battery it measured 13.62 volts with the lights both on and off.

LOL buckets for ports?! I've seen it all now. But whatever works!