KU40

Took off work tomorrow, so three day weekend has begun. Sitting by the pool tomorrow fo sho

I haven't bought components in 5 years and haven't stayed up on them.

I fixed your title.

How in the world do you have 12.5" behind the seat in a single cab? Are you 4 feet tall? At any rate, front firing is generally the best solution in a single cab.

You don't have to use expanding foam. You can just cut out extra baffles of wood to cover the space and attach them onto the sides and top of your enclosure to create more of the wall effect.

to your moms, I came to drop bombs

Yeah, component sets are worlds better than coaxials. You can put crossovers on each speaker individually, you can change the mounting location of the tweeter for the best sound, the mid doesn't have a big hole in the middle of it for a tweeter stand, etc.

I'd put the subsonic around 27-28 hz. Lowpass no higher than 80 hz. 70 hz is even better. But this depends on how the sub sounds playing those frequencies and how low your interior speakers will play effectively. You'll want to balance the two. Gain setting depends on the input signal voltage from the head unit. You match the voltage through the RCAs with the gain voltage. That will give you maximum power. however, since you probably don't want to go that high with the power right now, you'll just have to play it by ear.

Is the box sealed? Ported? Take some measurements so we can figure out the size of the box, and if it's ported, take measurements of the height, width, and depth of the port. Take the sub out of the box. If there are rips in the surround, spider, disconnected glue joints, etc., it's mechanical. If you can smell burning, can see a darkened voice coil through cooling holes, or the cone of the sub will not physically move and seems frozen in place, it's thermal.

You'll want basically as large of an alternator as you can find for your vehicle and at least one extra battery. For wire size, at least 1/0.

Is this going to be a wall? Or almost a wall? having the subs face forward in an SUV in a non-wall situation is not ideal. It is like putting your home subwoofer in the middle of the room. If you've ever been in that situation, you know that's not ideal. Loading the sub in a corner of the room is much better. Same with a vehicle. If it's not a wall, you'll want to face the subs either back or up.

Just fine. There's no such thing as underpowering.

So you just gotta make him believe the right!

Do you mean that's the highest impedance that it's rated for? If so I guess technically that's all that Sundown posts for the amp, but that's just because nobody in the car audio world runs subs at higher than 4 ohms so it's worthless to publish the information. But it would have no problem running at 8, 16, or 1000 ohms. It will just reduce power output accordingly. As for putting in the 2000d, it sounds like you may have already done that. But I say go for it. Just watch the voltage, and I'd try to not go below 12.5 or so. That will put you on the edge of the alternator's output capabilities.

It only has high pass crossovers that low? that stinks. Well, no, it's not very good for an active 3 way system. Although not all is lost, you could get something like a sundown 50.4 for the midrange and tweeter. Use the highpass on the amp for tweeters on channels 1 and 2. On channels 3 and 4 for the midrange, use the lowpass and subsonic filters to bandpass the speakers. Then get another 2 channel amp and use the lowpass on the amplifier and the highpass from the head unit to bandpass filter the woofer in the system.

I still need to put together my bedroom. It's a mess.

Short answer, no. Probably imperceptible. But it'll go a touch lower.

It would work fine. You should never have to worry about blowing it that way.

Active 3-way would be the best, but perhaps most pricy, option. You'll buy an 8" woofer, 3" midrange, and tweeter. Then you'll need at least a 4 channel amp and a 2 channel amp. Does that Kenwood head unit have any crossovers on it?

What box? What amplifier? Was it mechanical or heat-related damage?

Haha, that is AWESOME

Active just means running active crossovers, i.e.- using crossovers on the head unit and/or amplifier, not passive crossovers that come in the little box with off the shelf component systems. You then wire one speaker to one channel on the amplifier. It may be less power than bridging, but you can often get drivers with higher sensitivities when you run active, plus it just sounds a lot better if set up properly. But since you don't know much about this stuff, I'd just say go with an off the shelf component system until you get more comfortable with it. Don't want you to get in over your head and be disappointed.

Oh my bad, when I was recalling your first post the "don't" part got left out of my memory. Well, you should get one then!

With that budget I'd definitely go active. The speakers you'll buy could only be 100-200 total, then you'd have the extra money for processing if your head unit doesn't already have crossovers on it. Or you could buy a new headunit that does with the extra money.

Just bolts. You could even probably use the factory seat mounting holes.