KU40

You'd want to just use one or the other. Most amplifiers have a flat crossover option, meaning neither the highpass or lowpass are being used. So you can just turn the crossovers off on the amps and use the head unit. Although on the mids, you'll want to bandpass them, so you'll likely have to use one crossover from each the amp and head unit. But that's fine because it won't be the same type of crossover (highpass and lowpass instead of both highpass, for instance).

Gathering from his previous posts, spanish is his first language and his english isn't perfect. I'd say he's trying to figure out where to buy an MT. You have to buy through a dealer. Try to find one here: http://www.usamps.com/dealer.asp. Note that there is a link for international dealers.

stop using ----- and form real sentences. I can't understand what you are saying. You had a 2000 watt amp on a 1000 watt RMS sub and were surprised it blew? Maybe you should get four 12s so that they handle your abuse better.

Keep it civil.

No, it doesn't double. I'll be your 8th grade math teacher for a minute. Area of a circle is pi * r^2. 3" Ports: 3.14159 * 1.5^2 = 7.07 sq. inches. 6" Port: 3.14159 * 3^2 = 28.3 sq. inches. You'd need four 3" ports to equal one 6" port.

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=161 Top left picture.

Are you sure they have three voice coils? I've never seen a sub with three. It's either 1, 2, or 4.

Seriously, STOP MAKING THREADS OF THE SAME THING. If you create one more on this same topic your posting rights will be suspended.

That really isn't necessary. Just ground from the amp's ground terminal to the car's chassis. ALL amps spark when you touch a live power wire to the heatsink, because it's metal. Wouldn't be any different than touching the power wire to your car frame. This is why every amplifier manual you'll ever read suggests taking out the inline fuse before attaching the power wire to the amp.

At first I didn't think I'd like the cover because I thought it would be a pain to have to take on and off if I wanted to adjust something, but now I actually like it because it gives the amp a more complete look and covers up the front-mounted hookups, which I've also grown to like as well. Looks much cleaner than amps with inputs on the ends.

I spoke too soon! On the way to the grocery store 30 minutes after I posted that I saw a yellow Lamborghini Murcielago in a parking lot at what looked like a car get-together. I was so pumped, first Lamborghini I've seen in my life and they're my favorite cars ever! There were a couple vipers there as well, then just a bunch of cars with upgrades, like Dodge Magnums, Chrysler 300s, a few trucks, etc. When I drove back by after the store everybody was still there but I couldn't find the Lambo. Darn.

Merged and moved your two similar threads. You will still find recommendations on the Xcons in this forum section.

You can do an external port, but that would change my suggestions since you would no longer be displacing the air inside the box. So we'd have to come up with new lengths for you. But as far as inside the box, if you can find some 90 degree corners, you can just put those on the end of one port piece, then run the port along in a different direction inside the box. It doesn't have to be straight. But if you are having no noise problems now, I wouldn't worry about it.

It shouldn't. After you seal off the trunk the subs will have less area to pressurize, and you won't have the cancellation effects that you get by facing the subs forward but not sealing off the trunk (the reason those setups aren't as loud as facing towards the rear).

Boring day.

Yep. They'll break in by themselves over time.

Fair enough.

Warm air burns more efficiently, which is why we get better mpg in the summer than winter. Cold air intakes do the opposite of that. There have been cases of better mpg after adding K&N filters, but a lot of the time it's because the computer reads the incoming air differently and creates a more lean condition. So be careful about that. If you're getting more mpg it's because you're mixture is more lean. That can and will cause problems over time.

You may increase output, but it wouldn't be noticeable, and that's only if the port is stifling the sub, which you may have enough to avoid that. About the only real problem with that amount of port area is if you have port noise (chuffing). If you have port noise at higher volume, you can either add another or use the 8" port as you said. If you add another 5.6" port, they would each need to be about 40" long, but it would cut your enclosure volume down to about 3.1 cubes. If you went with the 8" port, it would need to be about the same length and you'd see the same drop in enclosure volume. Two 5.6" ports have 49 sq. inches, one 8" port has 50 sq. inches of area. That's a bit long, I know. That's for a 30 hz tune. You could raise the tune to 32 hz and each port would need to be 35 sq. inches and your box would be about 3.2 cubes. Not much difference there. But if you don't have port noise now, you're probably fine and don't need to change.

But all of that is irrelevant, because the amp is likely not overrated, especially by 500-700 watts. US Amps is not your Mobile Authority/Power Acoustik/Pyramid type stuff.

That's a good point. Friends with boots or little kids with happy feet will surely kick those things.

You can download winISD alpha version to help you view bandpass boxes, how they'll model, and what size and tune of chambers may be best for you. I think the 6th order bandpass is what you'd look for for more SPL. But I have to question why you'd put W6s in a fart box? They were JL's sound quality drivers. You're kinda doing them a disservice for not using the SQ they were born with.

A few years ago when I was looking into this, everything said red tops were designed to be primary/starting batteries, and yellow tops were secondary/add-ons.

Oh, I didn't realize those cars were RWD. You have a lot more room in there than if it was FWD like I thought!

That amp is only a 500 watt RMS amp. You're looking at the max rating. It's a decent amp, though. I have a 4 channel in the same model line and it's just fine.