KU40

I will take the second one from the left, thank you I'll take far right.

I think two 3's or a single 4 will work.

my guess is clipping to a point. clipping itself doesn't cause problems. It's just too much power.

I wouldn't have the port opening at the top of the L on the inside of the box, I'd make it vertical.

I don't think it'll perform how you predict. The air will just try to take the shortest path out, so I think it'll jump catty-corner from the inside to the bottom of the outside. I think you could get it to work eventually, but it would involve a lot of building, testing for the tuning frequency created, adjusting the port, testing for tune, adjusting, etc. I would probably either use round ports on that angled face and bend them inside or put a slot port in the lower right corner of the vertical face on the bottom, then make it L along the back of the box. or put the port on the top horizontal part in the back. I understand you wanting to try something different, I'm just not sure it's practical.

You still didn't say what amp you had or how you have somehow had it wired to 2 ohms and then 4 ohms. Did you only use one voice coil? Why do you think hooking it up to a home audio receiver will help? You can try, but you'll likely have to wire it in series to get an 8 ohm load.

Yesterday the weather called for 2-4 inches of snow last night and like 5-8 inches today. As of now we have no snow, and radar shows it most likely won't get here. From up to 12" to nothing. Damn liars.

Man you destroyed that thing, I don't think I've ever seen such total destruction of so many parts on a single sub before.

to 15

to count

learn

hooooray for friday. This was the first friday in a long time, as long as I can remember, that I actually had to stay all day. and then I ended up staying an extra half hour or so.

Well unfortunately that's the problem when your subs are as loud as yours are . The 100 watts on your interiors can't begin to compete with the 3000 you have on your subs. Really about the most you can do is just pump more interior speakers and power in there, but once you start doing that you'll start getting cancellation from all of those speakers and bad imaging (if you're an SQ guy).

what amp do you have? You have two 15's in a single 4.5 cubic foot ported box? I didn't know they made single 4 ohm L7's, I thought they were either dual 2 or dual 4.

I believe that's also called trimode operation?

I googled "port noise air velocity" and a few posts in other forums as well as articles came up, and a common number seems to be 17 m/s. However, winISD said I had about 23 m/s on my last box and I never heard any noise. But winISD also says that your box will have about 30 m/s with normal 6" ports, there isn't an option for aero ports. So you may be ok.

I'm not a huge fan of boxes on the rear deck. But I suppose your batteries prevent you from putting speakers actually in the rear deck speaker holes? Anything in the rear doors?

Is there a point to this?

It is extremely frustrating that this is true and hopefully we can get it righted, but it will take an effort from all of the moderators and not just a few. Quoted for truth. I admit I'm not the greatest at being a stickler yet, but I'm trying.... I agree that I don't like those types of threads though, very annoying.

Yeah. In a smaller type enclosure, like 2 cubes, it will raise the tune about 1 hert after the sub is put in. On a 4 cube enclosure it'll raise it about .5 hz. So as you increase box size it matters less.

How much power is going to it? Does it pop on low volumes as well as loud or only when you crank it? What tones make the sub make the noise? What box is it in? And what do you mean by wire it back down to 4 ohms when you say you have a dual 4 ohm sub? You gave us basically no information to help you.

I'd just subtract a bit off of the width you enter to subtract the volume for sub displacement. So if you had a box with dimensions 20"w x 20"d x 15" tall, enter 18.8" for the width instead of 20, that would take out about .17 cubes for sub displacement. However, if you are using the RE calculator for wood cutting dimensions, you'll want to go back in and change the width back to 20" after you get the port calculated, that way the dimensions are correct for how you actually want to build the box.

I think the maximum the amp can send when fully clipped is two times RMS for brief periods but when playing a whole song or something, the amp can't keep that amount of power up for the extended period so it may average out to be about 1.5 times RMS.

I don't think you're thinking in the terms of all possibilities with clipping. If you have a 500 watt RMS amp on a 1000 watt RMS sub, you can clip the hell out of the amp and it'll only send a maximum of 1000 watts, which the speaker can handle and won't blow. But if you do like most people and match the RMS of the amp with the sub, now you have a 1000 watt amp on a 1000 watt sub. If you clip that amp even a tad you'll be getting more power than the sub is rated for. Full clipping could get 2,000 watts from it. That=failure.

speakers don't have to get their RMS rating.