KU40

is that 2.7 cubes per sub or total?

Likes cheese. maybe. I dunno. That was a guess.

It would be so awesome outside if it weren't so windy. It's like 65* but 30+ mph wind. But tomorrow should be excellent, 65 and only 10 mph winds. I'm breaking the grill out from its winter hibernation for the KU game tomorrow.

hmm, those don't say how much airspace is in them or how deep the sub can be. Maybe look at some Incriminator Audio flatlynes and a Sundown 1500D or something.

Oh shit!!! woah... yeah but his right food could have already been down and just come up already. In replays it seemed obvious that both feet were down.

Don't forget at 1% THD, too.

When is it supposed to happen? Silly man, there's no predicting volcanoes!

So you disconnected the mids, but what speakers cut out then? The tweeters? Your voltage sounds decent. I'm with rushrun. Take the Cd player out of the equation and see if it still happens. Hook up an ipod, walkman, whatever, to the RCA inputs on the amps (there are headphone jack to RCA adapters available). Then just short the power wire over to the remote on the amps to get them to turn on.

You would drive a short bus! haha

Boy that thing needs a lot of work!

I took woodshop my.....junior year I think. My teacher's name was Stanley so we got extra credit if the tape measure we bought for the class was a Stanley.

You shouldn't need anywhere near that much port area. My guess is that a single 4" round port would be plenty (that's about 12.5 square inches). But this is just the problem with porting such a small enclosure- they require long ports. Honestly, if you're going under the seats, just go sealed. I did that in my dad's F150 and it got louder than I thought it would.

You shouldn't have to worry that much. You'll have to clip that amp pretty heavily to get up to the 1500 watt rating of the BL, and at that level it should be audibly distorting pretty badly. Plus back in the day I think Profile was overrated, although Bigjon says they're underrated now. I haven't kept up with them. *but this isn't to say that setting it with a DMM isn't a good idea.

I'd say start looking at SSA's shop and see if any of the amps there strike your fancy. Then once you decide which amp you want you can figure out what impedance to get on the subs.

Turning the gain higher than it needs to be to equal the input voltage makes amps clip.

is that 2.5 cubes net or gross?

I take it that $600 includes a receiver, speakers (4 of them, right), sub, and sub amp? For the sub and sub amp, are you thinking of building your own box and just finding a sub to go into it and then adding a plate amp?

Icons are 1000W rms subs, I believe, so I would not be getting full performance out of them feeding them roughly half there rms. I was thinking something in the 500-700W rms range each. That depends entirely on the box at that point. If you build a box that's a little larger than normal for those subs, you could get full excursion even with 500 watts.

Hopefully he was just joking?

also look for air leaks from the sub's gasket.

Every post I've read talking about port tuning has had that figure in it, so I guess that's probably the best dimension to minimize any type of port turbulence and noise. Look at some of the install pics of walled-off vehicles, you'll see boxes with like 15 cubes, the port is something like 10" wide by 20" deep and 30-40" long! Or Bigger! Unfortunately airspace is not the way to determine port area needed. It has more to do with how much airspace the sub(s) displace during excursion. A sub with 5 mm xmax needs less port area than one with 35 mm xmax, even if they're in the same size box.

ooooooook. why did you even ask then? Sorry for wasting your and my time.

Yep and unfortunately, that extra weights hurts every single kind of performance statistic Except for 60-0 survival rates :wacky: so bored today Then we should make them smaller and less safe. Weed out some of those bad drivers who get into stupid wrecks.

I don't see where you said 5 cubes after displacements. You said at least 5-5.5 depending on how much the port takes up. But that's my point. The port length depends on the box size after displacements. So it's kinda backwards to have a gross box volume and work out the port, then just find out what the net box size is arbitrarily at the end of it all. Not to mention that you won't know the tune of the port until you set it and get a net box volume. Then you may have to adjust the port again to get the right tune with the new net volume. Then you'll have to change the port to make the tuning frequency right again, which will then again affect net volume, etc. etc. etc.

if you measure the resistance of one of the coils and it comes up around 0.7, you have a D1 sub. If it's like 1.4, you have a D2. I hope you have a D2 so that you can wire it in parallel to the amp. I hope you thought about that back when you were buying things.