KU40

I use a program, winISD, alpha version. There is also a port calculator on this site.

I'm afraid you're going about this backwards. You need to figure out what airspace you want the subs to have, then work from there. Don't start with preset measurements for the whole box then work out what airspace the subs will see later. You'll need the airspace that the subs will have (after all displacements) to figure out the port length and tuning anyway.

That was a great game. I would have liked to see the Cardinals' D hold the steelers on that last drive, though. Fitzgerald sure came out in the second half. His last touchdown was awesome. He just turned on the afterburners and flew by those defenders. and yes, Harrison is a douche. As is Taylor. Seriously, you're going to say you're from the college of "Swagger" in the Super Bowl? wow.

That's what I was thinking. I've heard that too.

Are you going to buy and make your own speakers or buy prebuilt stuff? Or another good option for you would be to go to partsexpress.com and look at their kits. All of the speakers, crossovers, and wood for the box are included, you just have to put it together.

You're missing the point. Keyword: Before. After port and sub displacement is probably 2 cubes. Which, Mikel, why don't you tell us what that is? The before number is useless to us. and what amp are you going with?

gr8. Is this a license tag? QUOTE (RobClay @ Feb 1 2009, 02:42 AM) * My buddy has an Aq2200 running 2 fosgate t1 15's. I got to have a lil play time with the amp and i really liked it. Solid amp that puts out rated power.(/quote) Do you have some spl numbers with the 2200?

wtf, they are massaging that bull's ass and getting it drunk. And that's kobe beef that they charge $300 per steak for? Japanese are the weirdest people.....

They have been around for a long time. It's probably just statistical coincidence that there are a couple threads involving them right now.

Yeah it makes sense. It's the same principle as people with cars facing their boxes in the trunk towards the back instead of forward. It's louder facing back almost all of the time. You just have to make sure that you have enough room behind the seat for the port to "breathe." You don't want the port opening like 1" from the back wall of your truck, and you may not want to do that if the back of your back seat was flush against the back wall. You will probably want at least 3-4" from the port opening to the back sheetmetal on your truck. So plan that accordingly.

Well as long as you're responsible with the volume, the sub will be fine in any enclosure with 1000 watts on it. At that point it's more about the sound that you want to achieve out of the box. I think you'll be best served with something in the middle range of their recommendations.

Man, using the chainsaw for 3 hours then the axe/splitter for another 1 wore me out. But I still have to bring it all in from inside my Explorer. cripes........

Hope you work well in the wind!

larger boxes are more efficient than smaller ones. However, their mechanical power handling is also reduced because the increased airspace cannot control the cone as well. So, for instance, if you only have 600 watts, you may want to build the largest sealed box because that 600 watts will get the sub to full output in the large box. But if you have 1000 watts, you may want to build a smaller box because the extra power will make up for the lost efficiency of the smaller box. But in that case you'd also want the smaller box to help control the sub so that it doesn't blow mechanically as easily. Also, a sealed 15" Q will almost definitely not be as loud as a ported 15L7. But it will sound a lot better. The problem with most people not hitting the higher notes with the Q is when they put it into a ported box, i believe. I'm sure with a sealed box you'll be fine.

I would just do whatever is easiest and fits the best. Most likely, though, the best option would be to have two separate subs on either side of the tranny hump.

Well hopefully your business grows proportionally with it!

should only cause the speaker amp to go into protect. If they both are, it's from something they share (power, ground, head unit)

Just fit the largest wire you can. Most stock wire is 8 gauge, so anything better than that helps.

Indeed. The amp only sends power and it's up to you how much power gets sent. So if it blew, it's your fault, not the amp's. Amps can't blow subs just because they are lesser quality. But the Q and Kicker amp sounds like a good combo. Why do you want the largest sealed box possible?

i ran mine underneath my car through the fraim rails and up into the trunk.. i would hate to see my carpet bulge up but that just me I ran mine underneath the door jam plastic moldings. Can't tell it's there. But maybe not everybody has such a deep space underneath theirs.

There's no difference if you build one box or two. As you said, the increase in the sealed box is from adding cone area. It's the same thing with ported box. If you have one sub and upgrade to two, you'll see that increase in loudness. But if you already have two subs and put them in separate boxes (no matter if it's sealed or ported), there is no increase. You still only have two subs.

i didnt build the box, so making a new one would be a project, but more importantly my amp (1100 watt hifonics i think) and L7 blew out. the kicker is the new amp im probably purchasing. specific songs i dont remember what it didnt hit, but definetly didn't get the job done. the sub sounded farty at times. all in all, i will never buy a hi fonics product again. Don't blame the hifonics for the farty sound or lack of high notes. The amp has nothing to do with those if the crossovers are set correctly. They may be overrated, but that's another topic. Honestly I think most of your problem was just the L7. I've never liked the way those sound, and it's mainly because they've always sounded farty. Plus if the L7 was an older model, those liked pretty big boxes, so I'm sure 3.5 cubes was kinda choking it.

As for Dayton, I don't have any problems with my 500 watt plate amp. It makes my Crossfire BMFs hella loud and gives them all they want.

did you bypass the ground prong? yep, however it now has a very slight humm and turn off pop :/ Is your TV cable hooked up to any piece of equipment that's also hooked up to the sub amp in one way or another?

I'd say just upload the graph image into here and post it up.