KU40

If having impedance increases made it ok on the amp, don't you think the amp manufacturer would rate the amplifier lower? Such as- it's really a 2 ohm stable amp, but we'll rate it at 1 ohm because the impedance will be higher when they actually put speakers on it. No. And why not run both amps to one sub? Wire one amp to each voice coil. it's unconventional but there's nothing wrong with it.

Those processors look great on the tailgate.

That's beyond reasonable. I emailed Crossfire about a blown 1000D I had and they wanted $150 to refurbish. haha, yeah no thanks.

What size are your current speakers? Maybe you could just build a wooden baffle to convert the 6.5" holes in the doors to whatever size your speakers are now so that you don't have to buy anything else (and provided you like what you have). Getting an amp for the speakers is recommended. While they'll play all right off of the 22 watts that the head unit provides, you'll probably want high pass crossovers for them. Plus the extra loudness from the extra power of an amp doesn't hurt if you like to crank it.

There is no difference in sound between a single or double chambered box. if anything the double would be better because of the extra brace that the center divider provides, but if you adequately brace a single chamber there is no difference. Your box is the absolute smallest recommended, so if you can make one bigger for them, I would.

You sure? Mccoy led Texas in rushing this year, and I think he may have had more rushing yards than Tebow. Graham Harrell, from Texas Tech, is in a system where he usually gets the ball out before the rush gets close, within 2 seconds. so he really usually has no need. And Bradford is blessed with a crazy good offensive line that gives him extra time. *not making excuses, just observations* Tebow is a tough guy, I don't deny that.

this is how i have always had it explained to me, the idea that the speaker "doesn't care" what quality of sound it is producing. yet, i have heard many say that they can "blow" a 1000 watt speaker with only 100 watts....does this claim have anything to do with a clipped signal or are there other factors involved? This simply cannot be done. At least not thermally, as we are talking about here. If you build a ported box and tune it really high then play a 5 hz note at full blast, it may be possible to reach the mechanical limits of the speaker with 100 watts and damage it that way. Edit- whoops, didn't see Adrian's post on page 2 where he got into mechanical limits already.

I wouldn't do it. Get an amp rated for that load.

If you make them flared it will probably be ok.

What don't you understand about the length part? if it needs to be 8" long, you put a board inside the box that's 8" long (minus front baffle thickness) from the port opening. You don't need to build it exactly 8.1248i48392923823lkadsfj inches long or whatever it gave you. getting to the closest quarter inch is close enough. The program just uses an equation to figure out the port length, so it probably has an infinite number of decimal places. They just didn't cut it off very much. In order to fit those you'll have to stagger them a bit so that you can scrunch them height-wise. so for instance, in a square mounting configuration, you'll have to have the center of the bottom sub offset maybe 4" to the right of the center of the top sub. That will allow you to move the bottom sub up due to the round cones so that you can fit two subs together height-wise. If you slot your port all the way to one side and use all 35.5" of inner height on that box, you can probably make the port 8" wide. That'll give you about 70 square inches of port area per sub, and that's probably the lowest amount of port area you should do. You should make a life-size drawing of the front baffle with how things can be configured to make them fit. Maybe use chalk on your driveway or something. Or you could scale it down and put it on a regular piece of paper. But chalk sounds like more fun to me.

Here is a box I came up with: Pretty much build the box to the dimensions you gave. 39" wide x 17" high x 17.5" deep. That gives you about 5.4 cubes. The port I came up with- 15.5"h x 3"w x 18" long, displaces .6. That leaves you with .2 cubes for driver displacement, which is close enough, to get to your 4.6 cubes net tuned to 34 hz.

How would an amplifier send heat down the speaker wire? The amp does put out more power when it is clipping due to the area under the sine wave curve increasing. Think of a sine wave. Actually, draw one. Well, here, I'll draw one for you. The black is the maximum unclipped signal that the amplifier can put out. The thinner black lines represent the limit. When you turn the gain up too far, the signal wave does get a higher amplitude, as seen by the red sine wave (poorly and quickly drawn). However, because the amplifier has reached it's signal amplitude limit (thin black lines) it has to cut off the peaks and valleys of the sine wave. It cuts it off along the blue dotted line. So the red line/blue dotted line is what is sent to your speaker. Notice the area under the red/blue curve is greater than the area under the black curve. That extra area is extra power being sent. A fully clipped, square wave has twice the power as a normal sine wave of the same amplitude. Read this thread: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=19001 Actually the first link in djjdnap's post at the bottom explains all this better.

Glad it's Thursday already. National Championship tonight. What do yall think? My prediction: Oklahoma 48, Florida 34.

Oh boy. That is one of their main exports so they'll be losing a lot of money (in their already tanking and hyperinflation-ridden economy). No wonder they are putting up such a big fight, if Ukraine builds that pipeline then Russia will begin falling off of the world power map. And their feelings will get hurt because they won't feel needed anymore.

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/28549145

I'm not disagreeing with that, I just wanted to make another point about it. And that is that much of self sufficiency comes from having plentiful resources at home. If a country has all of the natural resources it needs, yeah it can be self sufficient. But because companies here decided to outsource 3/4 of their manufacturing jobs (seemingly), and we import oil, we can't be that way. And on a side note, not all of Europe is self sufficient. Russia is trying to put the squeeze on the eastern side. But I get what you're saying. Much of western Europe doesn't need to deal with the world's BS problems like we do because they don't have their hand in every country in one way or another. Edit: Posted this before reading Adrian's post on it. Nothing like first hand knowledge. Stay warm buddy!

I thought I heard them being linked to Audiobahn. Maybe. It was pulling 100 watts? ok...

The amp doesn't "know" anything. It just reacts to what the sub gives it. A speaker is a certain ohm because of the voice coil. Every wire has a resistence, and a voice coil is just wire. So depending on how much wire is used in making the voice coil and the properties of the metal used, you get different resistances (Resistance is the direct current term, impedance is for alternating current, such as your amp puts out). That's the start of it, anyway. The box changes the final impedance, too.

As Denim pointed out, there's nothing wrong with having a low-powered amp. What kind of power do you think a 1000 watt amp is putting out when the volume knob is at 1? Maybe a watt. And the sub doesn't care. It will just play less loudly. and as John said, you'll want the D1 driver so that you can wire the coils in series for a 2 ohm load on that amp.

Good morning. If it's going to be cold, we may as well get some snow. But nooooo, forecast looks mainly sunny for the next two weeks.

No, there aren't two amps in a single case in a monoblock. There is one amp that just has two outputs. The two outputs are wired together immediately inside the heat sink. If you do two runs of 12 gauge from the amp to the box that should be sufficient. Although one run of 8 gauge would be easier to run since you'd only have one set of wires instead of two.

please write a letter or send an email guys, serious tragedy if this were passed I don't understand this thinking. All of the politicians are in such a scramble to try to fix the economy ASAP, so they are trying to pull off all of these short term deals. But why not just let time heal all things? The US is not going to collapse into a third world country, is it? Besides, the whole world is caught up in this so we wouldn't be the only one. But with all of these things they're trying to push through, won't that just artificially inflate everything, only to cause another bubble burst when it finally catches up a year or two down the road? All the money they're dumping in now is going to cause massive inflation in probably a year, maybe two. I mean, let us suffer for a little while. Won't that make us stronger in the long haul? Maybe then people will stop with the bullshit that leads to these sorts of things.

That's not what I meant. I meant take the box out of the equation, meaning taking mechanical limits imposed by the box off the table and just looking at thermal failure points.

Yes very goot!

That's not really true. If we are talking strictly thermal handling here and take the box out of it, a speaker with a 1500 watt thermal RMS rating should be able to take 1000 watts RMS for 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, however long you want to play it. Thermal ratings are based on the dissapation of heat. It's like your car's engine. It may start out cold and warm up, but once it hits that temperature where the coolant equalizes with the heat produced, the engine won't warm up any more and you can drive it forever at that temp.