KU40

Yeah, cabin gain must be what you're thinking of. It generally boosts the lowend, like 30-40 hz. Those are also generally the frequencies that are loudest to the ear. If you want something that will sound loud on the low stuff, tune to 30-32 hz.

I got an ITouch for Christmas that I got to open early because I won't be home for Christmas. Anyways I try to hook it up to my computer....nothing. OK, I figure my Itunes is just too far out of date (I had version 5, they're on version 8 now, ha). I go download the new itunes, takes about 20 minutes. Try to launch, no go. Says my windows installer is also out of date. ugh, fine. Takes about an hour to update my windows service package. Then takes another hour to load the new itunes. And at first the new ITunes didn't want to accept my itouch either, said there was some error. I was about to get real mad. But luckily it found it after I closed and reopened itunes. Now it's taking another hour to load all my songs into the new itunes because apparently the information that the old itunes had on my files just wasn't good enough so it had to update it all. This is absurd.

No, the tuning frequency does not drop once you install it in a vehicle. Not at all. Tuning frequency is a product of box size, port area, and port length. That's it, it doesn't matter at all what vehicle it's in. 40-50 cubic inches per sub would be fine.

Yep. That's why I said at least 700. At least in unregulated power supplies, right? I thought regulated power supplies were a little more strict on doubling as impedance halved.

This amp is rated 40x4 @ 4 ohms at 12 volts, and I think 70x4 @ 4 ohms at 14.4 volts. 100 x 4 @ 2 ohms. I bought it for $189 from woofersetc.com. This amp definitely seems to put out a good amount of power. I was a little worried at first about the 40x4 rating, but it shows no lack of power. I don't have a way to measure it's actual output, but it certainly does more than that. The 70x4 rating seems more correct, if not more. It gets my JL XR components as loud as I need or would want them to go. The amp looks gorgeous IMO, I love the black. I also love the connections all on the one front side, makes for very easy installation, at least for me. Two hex-headed screws hold on a top plate that cover up the controls. This is something I've never seen before. It's not a negative, IMO, it's just different. It could be bothersome if you're constantly changing your levels, but I'm pretty much a set-it-and-forget-it guy, so I may never take the cover off again, who knows. It does make for a cleaner looking install, though. The gain is very clearly marked, unlike most other amps. Most amps just have a "0" at one side and "6" at the other end, or whatever. I believe this one has 0, .3, .5, 1, 2, and 4 marked. The crossover is also equally marked, with I believe 40, 70, 100, and 200. The A set of channels has only the gain and high pass crossover settings, but the B channels has gain, high pass or low pass, and also has a bass boost feature. One thing that's nice about this bass boost is that it's variable from 40-100 hz (instead of fixed at 45 hz like most amplifiers), also very well marked every 10 hz or so. The level of boost knob is, again, from 0-12db and marked every 2 db or so. In short, the options on this amp are outstanding. The amp sounds clean and clear, no problems there. The amp does have a fan, which is not very common for a 4 channel amp. This is the only bad thing I've found about this amp. The fan is a tad noisy. I have an Explorer so the amp is in the same airspace as I am, and when stopped and with no music playing you can just barely hear it. It's not a problem when moving or with music playing, however, and I can't imagine it being audible at all in a trunk. I was a little skeptical at first because it was a Kenwood, but they generally make their eXcelon line with pretty decent quality, and this amplifier doesn't miss the mark. Very solid.

It's not the best carpentry and finish job ever, but I only had about 8 hours to do it all while I was back at my hometown. The amp rack sits partly over the wheel well, and the wires in the picture aren't nearly as close to the Crossfire amp as the picture would lead you to believe. There's a good 2-3" between them. I zip-tied most of the wires together for a bit of cleanliness but that was just to make it home, I could still hide them a bit more. But it was dark and about 30 degrees when I hooked everything up that night so I was just in get-it-done-for-now mode. I'm also going to get a black shroud of some kind to cover it all instead of the blue blanket. My old box was basically as big as the rest of the cargo area. so I trimmed down quite a bit.

PICS

Happppppyyyyy Birfffdayyyyyy!

hmm, my guess is the cap. it may have developed a slow short internally or something.

My only ticket wasn't really my fault. It was for window tint that had been on my car before I bought it. The cop didn't believe me when I said I had never been pulled over for it in the previous 3 years that I had owned it. He measured my driver's side and it was at 13%. I said look, I'm a law-abiding person, my car was broken into last year and they smashed my passenger's side window, which I got replaced with legal tint. I asked him to measure that one, and yep it was 30%, legal. But from inside they both look the same darkness. At least it was only a $50 ticket, but it was in a different county about 200 miles away during the school year so I had no chance to get to the court to fight it, otherwise I would have.

that's why I never use an electric drill to put screws in around my sub. Hand cranking works just as well and is much safer. I put my hand on the inside of the screw to stop any slips, but I crank slow and deliberately so I've never even slipped anyways. As for the amp, let me guess- you touched a live power wire to the casing of the amp? That's why you ALWAYS take the fuse out of the power wire next to the battery.

Actually it has to be at least half of what the 1 ohm RMS is, which he said was 1380 something. So at 2 ohms the amp will put out at least 700 watts.

My roommate showed me the new Women of KU calendar and while the overall quality has been better in previous years, there are a couple girls that are........yeah. wow. The covergirl is from my roommate's hometown, and he said man if she was one year older, the things I woulda done to her. When he was a senior she was in 8th grade, hence the problem.

wooooowwwww http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...c=23456&hl=

Happy birthday a day late

does the 100.4 have a bandpass for the mid or just highpass or lowpass settings? if it only has high/low, you know you have to get another xover for the mid. But I say if you have some free time sometime, try it out. If you haven't ran the wiring for the speakers yet, may as well just run two runs to the crossover from the amp so that if you ever decide to try active you can without tearing your car apart again.

Don't just max out every setting. Honestly, just turn it up until it doesn't go any louder. It really isn't rocket science on getting the signal to it, that's the least of the worries of what will affect the score. What I mean by that is......once the sub is maxed out on how loud it can go, adding power won't do anything but increase the chance you'll blow it during the run. There is a power point where the sub reaches power compression, mechanical limits, etc., where it just won't get any louder. Maxing out all of your knobs just increases the chance that something will clip and overdrive either the amp or sub and send it into failure. You won't get as loud as you can be on your first SPL run if you've never been on a meter before. nobody ever is. The best thing you can do is find a meter before the comp and just run test after test after test.

I've dealt with digikey twice. They're excellent.

another day of boring training. yawn....

I don't know how you got the port volume to be 0.0066 cubic feet, but it's wrong. It has to be more than that.

yep. I really wish I could port it, I think that would make it the perfect sub because it would add a little lowend exaggeration that I'm used to and increase efficiency to aid in getting as loud without reaching the mechanical limits.

20, 25, whatever it is. I forget since I don't have to worry about it.

He's good at making things loud, I give him that. I have nothing against his install skills. The only thing I'll say is that the one video I saw of him had him and his truck in front of some business blaring the music so that it rattled the windows on the business. I don't know if it was after hours or what, but that's really disrespectful and annoying to anybody around and inside.

You have to have 20 posts before you can post in the for sale section.

Model numbers and impedances of the equipment and how you have it wired?