KU40

So.......you didn't use glue?

that's not the problem. Especially since he noted that the voltage fluctuates even without that amp on. You mention running 4 gauge to the fuse panel? What fuse panel? I assume the one for your vehicle, but why does your power wire run through there? And what are these switches you are talking about for the amps? What are they hooked up to? Is your alternator the same stock one from the factory 12 years ago? If so.......it may be on its way out. Stop by an auto parts store and ask them to do a check on it.

"old blue?" Isn't your truck grey?

Depending on enclosure. which, history points to bad things in this department. That box is what killed the Type R. If you have suspension parts coming apart, like you did, instead of voice coils cooking, it points to mechanical failure from overexcursion. You probably played a note that was too low and the sub unloaded in that box, which is fairly easy to do considering the high 40 hz tune. So next time be more aware of the limits that the box places on the sub. Turn on a subsonic filter and/or tune lower.

what's wrong with what you have?

Why don't you just build a sealed box? Save a lot of money and it'll still be very loud. Don't go broke over audio equipment, that's about the dumbest thing to do.

no

I guess I should have qualified my suggestion of 22" long port in that box by saying to not do it. It's not going to make it sound any better. That will give each sub only 2.5 cubic feet, and that's too small for those subs. The frequency response for that enclosure would be nearly identical to the one I graphed above. You need to either build a larger box that will give those subs sufficient airspace for a ported application, or build a smaller box and seal it for those four subs. Or just live with that peaky response that doesn't go low at all. The fact is that you just built the wrong box from the start.

cabin gain isn't the issue. It's box properties. If you build a ported box and tune it to 30 hz, the sub will start to unload at around 25 hz. Anything below that will not be loud and may damage the sub. In which case you'd want to use a subsonic filter for below there, which cuts output even more. If you build the ported box in my example you'll likely only have a usable range from 25 hz and up. If you go sealed, however, it never unloads and will play louder below 25-30 hz than the ported box. But the ported box will be louder from 30 hz and up, especially in the 30-45 hz range. So you have to ask yourself just how important that sub-25 hz stuff is to you.

Man I love lazy mornings when I don't have to hurry and do anything. Like go to work.

maybe the coil was misaligned from the factory?

Deadbolt the front door? It was locked, but we also have a deal that slides over and locks it from the inside that you can't undo from the outside. But I didn't know if my roommate would be coming home because he traveled to nebraska for the NU-KU football game so didn't want to lock him out. Our landlords installed those on the front and back doors after the last rape occurred in our complex a few months ago, but we never use it because we don't want to lock the other person out.

Just soft parts- cone and coil. Have to glue the surround and spider to the basket.

here's your frequency response graph. Now you know why you're loudest at 50 hz, and why it sounds like poop.

and btw, your box is 11 cubes tuned to 40 hz after factoring in port displacement. So the fact that your box is severely undersized for four of those 15s and also with a high tune is what is making it sound like crap. To tune to 36 hz, lengthen your port to 22". That'll also drop your box volume to 10 cubic feet.

Ported boxes are almost always loudest 5-10 hz above tuning. So your being loudest at 50 hz with a box tuned to 36-40 is not surprising at all. Plus most vehicles are just naturally loudest at around 45-50 hz anyways.

Do you know just how low you want to go? i.e.- what frequency the lowest notes are in the normal music that you listen to. I just say that because if the lowest you got was about 25 hz, you could easily build a ported box and tune it to 28-30 hz. That'll give you an exaggerated lowend between 30-45 hz or so. If you would rather be able to go lower than that and not have a bit of a hump in frequency response, you could stick with sealed. Either way, I think a 15" should do you well.

Why does my imagination always have to run wild when I'm taking a shower while alone in the house? Particularly when having my eyes closed during the hair rinse cycle. I always think something is going to be there when I reopen my eyes. I hate that.

It's the weekend. About the only productiveness allowed in my book is working on the house. However, since I don't own one, I am not productive on the weekends . I'm being productive on making some 'peekas. oh yeah, forgot about that. Audio is also acceptable on the weekends.

It's the weekend. About the only productiveness allowed in my book is working on the house. However, since I don't own one, I am not productive on the weekends .

I doubt it subtracts port volume from what you put in. None of the other port calcs I've seen do. It assumes you'll just add the port volume on to the box size. It just wants to know how many cubic feet the subs will actually see. So if you want your subs to have 12 cubic feet, put 12 cubic feet into the calculator and get the port info. If, then, the port volume it suggest is 2 cubic feet, build your box 14 cubic feet.

haha, this is what, like you're 7th time coming back?

I've started growing less concerned about college football other than KU. I used to watch a lot of the random games every saturday, now I get bored in 5 minutes if it isn't KU.

who the hell decided it was a good idea to put the KU-Nebraska football game on pay per view? I didn't even know they put college games on PPV anymore. What bs.

oh saturday morning