KU40

What box are your CVRs in now? Is that Kenwood 1000 watts RMS or 1000 watts max? two 12s will likely be louder than one 15.

lol thats true. i dont know any forum where this term makes so much trouble. That's because it's so subjective. If he wants more low end and already has a ported box, that means he likes an overly exaggerated low end, which means a big hump in the frequency response between 30-50 hz. To somebody else, "SQ" means having a completely flat frequency response over the subbass range and likely using a sealed box to do so.

Yes. Although, IIRC, it's not on top of the cone, it's in place of the cone in that area.

Measure the voltage at the amp when as you turn it up and when it shuts off. Also measure the resistance of the load from the subs at the amplifier (all wired together).

ok. So it only operates the head unit's internal amplifier. Since you're using the memphis amp to power all of your speakers and have none hooked up to the head unit, you can turn the amplifier gain setting to off.

Have you checked the coils with a DMM like Dan208 mentioned?

For some reason I thought you had a 4 channel that you were bridging a couple channels to for the sub, instead of a 5 channel. The crossovers on the amp for the mids and tweeters should be set to highpass around 80 hz or so (can play with this up or down). The passive crossovers that you got with the components likely have a highpass filter for the tweeters and a lowpass filter for the mids. However, the mids need to be bandpass filtered (lowpass at 3-4 khz in the crossover and highpass at 60-100 hz by another source, in this case the amp), so you'll need to use the highpass crossover on the amp to do that. Not sure what the amplifier gain setting on the head unit does. Why don't you tell us what the manual says for it? If you aren't hooking up any speakers to the rear channels of the amplifier, the gain and crossover settings don't matter. If you are using the subwoofer preout on the head unit, make sure to set the gain for the sub with that subwoofer level on the head unit all the way up.

Have to describe what you mean by cleaner or else we can't help you at all.

With things like that which are on and off in weird intervals, it's almost always a bad connection. You probably just fixed the connection on the bass knob when you were messing with it before you put in the new sub.

Your crossover switch for the sub channel should be on LPF, not HPF. Set the crossover at about 80 hz, but play around with it until the sub sounds the best. If your box is sealed, you can leave the subsonic either all the way down or turn it off if there is a switch for it. For the gain, just turn it up until the sub starts to distort at your maximum listening level on the head unit volume.

My gf had a jeep in which after a year of owning they looked under it and both rear shocks were not hooked up to a lower bracket. Who knows how long it had been like that.

What needs tweaked

Ah-ha! So if you are running an amp with an internal fuse of, say, 150 amps, but you are running 1/0 AWG to the amp that is rated for 300 amps, you should put a 300 amp fuse in the wire instead of a 150? Just checking. I would just put a 150 in the wire. That's just extra protection over the 300 amp fuse as it will blow even sooner than the current capacity of the wire. You can always go lower than the rating of the wire, just not higher. I have a 100 amp fuse near the battery on my 1/0.

They probably make it so that you have to send it into them and cannot grab some off-the-shelf recone.

Subwoofer Sensitivity - SSA Car Audio Forum There is the formula for sensitivity. What will happen when Fs decreases? Sensitivity will decrease, not increase. Same with Vas. Sensitivity will move in the same direction of those two terms. If one of those two go up, so does SPL. If one of those two go down, so does sensitivity. Sensitivity is inversely correlated to Qes...as Qes increases, sensitivity will decrease. It's all a basic consequence of Hoffman's Law. If you want low frequency extension in a small enclosure (low'ish Fs, small'ish Vas, higher Qes) sensitivity will necessarily be sacrificed. Whoops I wrote that if vas increases, sensitivity increases. Not sure where I got that, apparently not from a formula.

2 12s or 1 15 - SSA Car Audio Forum - Page 2

Stop posting audio-related threads in the newbie sign in section. And start making better initial posts in threads, your total lack of helpful information to extract decent and helpful responses is not going to cut it.

A lot of times you don't burn up just transistors but resistors and/or diodes as well. If you don't have the equipment to test each part, it may be best to leave it to a pro. Does the amp still have a warranty? If so, opening it up voids the warranty. If not, may as well open it up just to see what you see. If you decide to sent it in, db-r is the regular remanufacturer.

Then have somebody else listen as you set the gain.

Well there you go. Like I said, sealed boxes will be louder at very low frequencies, sub-25 hz. But for the ported box you also have to take into consideration that you will need a subsonic filter a few hz below tuning, which will make the actual rolloff even steeper. So even though the model shows 20 hz, it will likely be bumped up to 25 hz or so where the sealed box takes over.

I was going to bring up sensitivity last night in a reply but got distracted. Higher Vas increases sensitivity, lower Fs lowers sensitivity.

Ported boxes generally have a 12-24 db/octave (or more, depending) rolloff below tuning frequency. As I said, model up a ported box vs. a sealed box in a program and you will see.

Not cooling methods. Your best bet would be to download a box building program and look at impedance graphs in various enclosures for a given sub and see for yourself. But modeling up my sub, ported box size plays little part in maximum impedance rise. However, increasing tuning frequency increases the bump in impedance near the tuning frequency, but the upper impedance hump, 5-10 hz above tuning, decreases with increased tuning frequency. In a sealed box, impedance rise is higher in larger boxes and also moves lower in frequency as box size increases.

x2. Most manufacturers make several mono amps and it seems the most common are a smaller monoblock that's 5-600 watts @ 2 ohms and a larger one at 1000-1200 watts @ 1 ohm.

I'm not going to disagree with you, wire does not make power. However i did notice slightly less dimming in my previous car when I upgraded my 4 gauge power wire to 1/0 and added just a second ground from battery to chassis with 4 gauge. I had a 1000 watt sub amp and a ~200 watt amp for my interior speakers, with a 105 amp alternator. That is why I mentioned in my previous post that the only thing it may do is reduce dimming by a small amount, it's not going to help the amp make more power. What were the fuse ratings on the amps? Also, what wire? I've had the same copper 4ga kit since high school (Knu...about 8 old now) and my stereo has ranged from 400w to 520w. When I get to swapping my other amps, it'll be 900w or so...but...my fuses will only total about 95A on a stock 80A alternator. I don't really remember the amps' fuse ratings, it was about 4 years ago and I've parted with the amps since. I think maybe 100 amps on the sub amp and maybe 40 on the smaller amp (was a 2 channel but I was running it at 4 ohm stereo so not at full capability). I believe I had/still have a 100 amp fuse under the hood which has never blown. The wire I also don't remember. Just normal 4 gauge wire that I got from the local stereo shop. The 1/0 was off of partsepxress I believe, also not sure on what exactly since I installed it years ago and have since forgotten about it. When wire works, why think about it and remember all the specs? Ha. But for a time I had three amps in there, probably totalling 160 amps worth of fusing. However, again, only the sub amp was actually at its lowest rated impedance and the 100 amp fuse under the hood never blew. Just goes to show you how hard it is to actaully use amps to their full potential to blow a fuse. I was a bit larger basshead back then so I had it cranked a lot more often. That same 100 amp fuse is now under my hood with my Sundown SAE1200v2 and Kenwood 4 channel, which I believe also add up to about 160 amps worth of fusing. But now I have a 135 amp alt and no dimming occurs at all. Just curious about the wire since my Knu speaker wire from that kit looks like it's starting to corrode inside but the power/ground wires still look good. It's crazy to think about how little power is really used when you get into higher frequencies...fractions of a watt... Yeah the exposed power wire in the ring terminal at the battery was corroded when I switched the setup into my new vehicle, but I just cut it off and put a new terminal on newly exposed wire. The wire still inside the insulation looked good as new. DPAW, there is absolutely no reason to use 8 gauge wire as speaker wire. That stuff is like $2/ft, and you have to buy twice as much since you have to use individual runs for + and -. 10 or 12 gauge speaker wire works perfectly fine and it's like $1/foot for two wires connected together. Save yourself $20 and get regular speaker wire. I guarantee there will be no difference.