KU40

Try to trade for some D4 L7s? Otherwise send the amp back if you can get a refund and buy a 2 ohm amplifier.

Yeah, just have the router bit only take off like 1/4" of wood, not go all the way through it.

USE a relay! I have one on the remote wire from my head unit, I guess I could just use that? I'm not sure of the current capacity of just the factory ignition power wire to the head unit, but the specs on the XM tuner say it only draws 500 mA at max. I thought I'd be safe with that, but you think no?

Until you're blowing black soot everywhere Seems pretty common in Dodges no matter what.

yes 1 single sealed box with divider in the middle Then ditch the idea of dual terminal cups, drill a hole in the divider to wire the subwoofers together in parallel-parallel as pictured in the diagram, and run one speaker wire to the amplifier. Problem solved. Not seeing the big issue here? Right. Rattlz, having each sub in its own sealed enclosure is really unnecessary. Instead think of the center divider as a good brace. Drilling a hole through it will have absolutely no effect on the sound. Just wire the two subs to one terminal cup on the inside, that way you only have one set of wires going to the amp. If you are dead set on having two terminal cups and thus two wires to the amp, there's no reason you shouldn't be able to plug both into the amp's terminals. Chances are the amp's terminals accept at least 8 gauge for speaker wire, and there's really no reason to use over 10-12 gauge wire to the subs. Those should be able to both fit inside the terminal. If not, there's nothing wrong with cutting a couple strands off of each wire to make them fit. But for the record, I got two 12 gauge wires to fit with plenty of room left over in my amp's terminals.

If you have Dual 2 ohm subs and already bought the Audioque 2200, you bought the wrong amplifier. You got bad advice in your other thread. You could keep it, though, and wire it to a 2 ohm net load and get 1300 watts, aka 650 per sub. You need either a 2000 @ 2 ohm amplifier or two 1000 @ 1 ohm amps. To wire the subs for a final 2 ohm load, either wire each sub's voice coils in parallel then the two subs in series, or each sub's coils in series then the two subs in parallel. Diagram here: JL Audio - Car Audio Systems

Look good, but I don't really buy the "coupling of heatsinks to share cooling duties." If you ask me, they're just eliminating 33% of the surface area of the bottom amplifier, thus hurting its cooling. The top amp would also run warmer because of this. Even the 1/8" or whatever of space that the old amps had was better. Just drawing arrows on a picture doesn't make it better. I could edit my electronic bank statement and put some 0s at the end of my balance, doesn't mean it's actually there.

The glued together 1/2" pieces with different cutouts would most likely be the easiest way. Another way would be to use a router but I think that would be too cumbersome to use on such a small piece of wood with short width sides.

Any sub with 1000 watts will be plenty to keep up with your front stage, or in actuality overpower it by quite a bit. No difference in using a DMM with high level inputs on the amp since you'll be measuring the output side of the amplifier, after the signal has already been adjusted by the amp.

I actually get that you have 3.13 cubes before displacement. Assuming 3/4" wood, 14.5" x 51.5" x 7.25 (average of 8 and 9.5 minus 1.5" wood thickness) / 1728 sq in/ft = 3.13. Take out sub displacement = 2.95. As for port, a 30 sq. inch slot port 32" long will yield you a box about 2.2 cubes tuned to 32 hz. If you want to use round ports, you could use one 6" round port that's 27" long will give you a 2.4 cube box tuned to 32 hz, or two 4" ports 24" long (2.5 cubes net), or three 4" ports 47" long would give about 2 cubes net. IMO, slot port would be easiest.

My Explorer has two cigarette lighters but neither are switched with the ignition, both are always on. Now that I got XM radio as a bday present, I'll need one to be switched so that I don't have to turn on/off the xm tuner every time I get into the car as that would get annoying real fast. I think I'll just splice it into my head unit's ignition power wire though as that looks to be 10x easier than tearing apart half of my dash to rewire one of the sockets.

I've always used winISD.

No. Just will have a different frequency response curve than the manufacturer intends/recommends. Moving to a sub forum instead of amplifiers.

.67 > .5

If the MTX is not 8 ohm, they will receive different amounts of power. Also, the tonality of the subs will be different, frequency response will be different, etc. It will sound weird.

Beautiful weather, sunny and 80*. Wind is a bit fast, 15-20 w. gusts to 30 mph. But then again if it wasn't windy, this wouldn't be Kansas.

Went to the driving range to hit golf balls for the first time this year and I was actually hitting really well, far better than I expected for not having picked up a club in 8 months. Hitting up a course this Saturday.

Made some bad chili on Sunday night. Not sure what went wrong, it was just brown ground beef and turkey, cans of beans, and tomotoes in a crock pot for 7 hours. Not much to go wrong in there. Maybe one of the cans of beans was contaminated or something. The gf and I both had stomach ailments but i didn't throw up. Just had stomach cramps that night then colon cramps and a-hole afire yesterday. It wasn't spicy at all. Had a basketball game last night and felt like I had a lead brick in my abdomen, jumping was the worst. I have about 5 bowls of leftovers but I'm not sure I'll be eating it. A shame, too, since it actually tasted pretty good.

wow

No buying or selling posts on the forum until you have enough posts.

If I were you, I'd use quite a bit more than a single 4" port. You're going to have port noise and the setup may lose efficiency. I would use at least two 4" ports, if not 3, or about 30 sq. inches if you switch to a slot port.

What is your box tuned to? Maybe the bass notes in bass I love you are below your tuning frequency and the sub was unloading, hence the "dancing all over" and sounding more stressed. Is there a subsonic filter on that amp?

Adequately bracing the inside will likely yield better results. I've never heard of cork being used.

50% (halfway) between 10 hz and 50 hz is 30 hz.

That is correct. But you still need to be careful. You didn't mention what, if any, options you got with the BL. The standard sub's RMS is 1000 watts, so it is still possible to blow the sub with 1200. Not to mention the power limitations that the box may place on it mechanically. Basically all I'm saying is don't set it this way and think it's bulletproof. You still have to listen for stresses in the sub.