KU40

No. Tuning frequency depends on net box volume, port area, and port length. The sub doesn't matter at all except for its physical displacement, but most of the time if you just guess it's close enough to not matter.

Going to Red Lobster tomorrow night. mmmmmmmm. Sure it's not the freshest stuff due to living in Kansas, but it'll do. I can eat crab all day.

Shit I had something to say but by the time I got caught up on the posts in here I forgot it.

hell no. That PA amp will blow in 6 months but the Memphis will last years.

Reread what that says and you'll see the cause of confusion by other people in subsequent posts.

Need to know the size of the port opening. That guy is short, haha.

im going to need the whole cable. Male and female Its an 05' International Stories is that the previous driver of the bus was playing inappropriate music, so the bus ppl just yanked that cable. And guess what they lost it Then at least you don't need that connector, just a connector with that many leads. Be way easier perhaps to have something different. Any reason you can't hardwire? That's what I was thinking. If both connectors are broken or missing, just hard wire the thing.

Believe it or not I'm not a fan. It's like one of those girls with a real skinny waist but then huge badonkadonk and hips. Just looks goofy.

If you want an SPL system, look into the BTL. As far as what configuration, that depends on what amp you are getting to power it.

If each coil reads .9 ohms, you don't need a recone. Perhaps take a picture of the terminals and how it is wired.

Actually .5 ohms is less resistance than 1 ohm. But you're missing the point of this thread. This isn't talking about getting a D1 or D2 option on a single sub. It's about the design of the speaker itself in the grand scheme of things. Whether you get a D2 sub and wire it to 1 ohm and put 1,000 watts on it or get the D1 version and wire to 0.5 ohm and put 1,000 watts on it is irrelevant. Those instances will in all likelihood have the exact same output. It would take a complete redesign of the motor to have the effects this thread is talking about.

You need some detox if this is really the case.

Actually, in parallel that sub is .5 ohms. Can't think of anything that hasn't already been said though.

Hello. No time to post. But hooray for KU beating Texas!

Good deal

There is no sound difference between 2 and 4 ohms. I would never choose a speaker based on that. I wouldn't worry about the power difference. Here is a pretty good place, just keep asking questions.

In his first post he said SPL, but it would help if we narrowed down just what type of SPL he wants. Do you want a one-note wonder that will put up the best numbers on an SPL meter? Or do you want something as loud as possible while being somewhat listenable? What music or frequencies do you want to play? Your back seat is 16+ cubic feet, way more than enough for a 15" sub in a ported box. Should only need 5-6 cubes or so. I'd rather have the Sundown than the RF, but that's just my opinion.

Again, you have to learn financial responsibility at some point. Drill into your head that you can't use the credit card without knowing exactly from where and when the money to pay it off will come from, and you'll be fine. In fact it's advisable to get a credit card at some point early on in life and buy little things with it and pay it off right away, just so that you can begin building credit. Your credit score can be your best friend or your worst enemy. Become determined to be responsible with a credit card and it can be very useful tool.

Yeah, both solid amps. You'll just pay for the name and brick and mortar dealer network that one has.

That ocean looks angry. The Great Sand Dunes in Colorado are also about 30 square miles, but there's no vegetation on it and I don't think you can ATV on them. They have the tallest dunes in north america though, highest is 730 feet. But it's so vast and featureless other than sand that a number of people get lost in them every year.

As long as you don't plan on taking out the sub very often (or, like me, never), screws are ok. Different heads on the screws helps with theft prevention. But ideally, yes t-nuts or bolts are better.

Have to save. Not to sound like a dick, but you have to learn to do that at some point in life. But if you really want to defer payment, get a credit card.

Power rating has nothing to do with being able to play midbass. Depending on exactly what frequencies you are defining as lower midbass, either the driver wasn't meant for it or the box is incorrect to make it shine.

If it's a D class and 1 ohm stable it's not two channel, at least I don't know of any that Memphis made. You're probably just seeing two outputs and think it's two channel, but those two outputs are wired in parallel internally. So really they are the same channel. They're just there for ease of wiring subs. Wire two subs in parallel to each output, that'll be easiest.

I'm not sure what color it might be on factory radios, but on aftermarket ones it's blue and I think with a white stripe. The solid blue one is for power antenna. If you have a voltmeter, you can just test the wire for a +12v signal. You should be able to eliminate all but a couple of them. Speaker leads should be color coded together, the two power leads should be marked or they might be a tad larger wire size, ground should be black. That should only leave you with a couple wires to try.