Thumpper

it kinda sucked.....it costed me $5 to dump it to ....LOL I'm looking forward to this next build though.............and yes the subs will remain SSA

out with the old..................make room for the new

I ended up going with 1.0cf3 per woofer tuned at 32hz

the centerpeice still has to be made along with a wall and air scoop that goes up to the 10" woofer hole in the rear deck......""it's not gonna be bottled up in the trunk"" so there should be some good air movement in the cabin as well as some trim peices for the top to hold the contour of the trunk

no terminal cup on this one..... a 10ft chunk of Tsunami 12 gage twisty will go from the sub directly to the amp

they know what the problem is....they just can't get a response from Crown or JBL about replacement parts really lame customer service imo....... I don't want another amp on the bottom end..anything else would be a downgrade

I'm just waiting to see if the parts are available to fix my Crown amp..... if it's not fixable I'll be working with EXILE and will be running there amps..this will change the amp rack so I can't do anything untill I know for shure.....

Loudspeakers have a mind of their own. You send them a signal and they add their own twist to it. They keep on vibrating after the signal has stopped, due to inertia. That’s called “ringing” or “time smearing.” In other words, the speaker produces sound waves that are not part of the original signal. Suppose the incoming signal is a “tight” kick drum with a short attack and decay in its signal envelope. When the kick-drum signal stops, the speaker continues to vibrate. The cone bounces back and forth in its suspension. So that nice, snappy kick drum turns into a boomy throb. Fortunately, a power amplifi er can exert control over the loudspeaker and reduce ringing. Damping is the ability of a power amplifi er to control loudspeaker motion. It’s measured in Damping Factor, which is load impedance divided by amplifier output impedance. Let’s explain. If the speaker impedance is 8 ohms, and the amplifi er output impedance is 0.01 ohms, the damping factor is 800. That’s a simplication. Since the speaker impedance and amplifi er output impedance vary with frequency, so does the damping factor. Also, the impedance of the speaker cable affects damping. Thick cables (with low AWG) allow more damping than thin cables with (high AWG). The lower the amplifi er’s output impedance, the higher the damping factor, and the tighter the sound is. A damping factor of 1000 or greater is considered high. High damping factor equals tight bass. How It Works How does an amplifi er control speaker motion? When the loudspeaker cone vibrates, it acts like a microphone, generating a signal from its voice coil. This signal generated by the speaker is called back EMF (back Electro Motive Force). It creates a current which travels through the speaker cable back into the amplifi er output, then returns to the speaker. Since back EMF is in opposite polarity with the speaker’s motion, back EMF impedes or damps the speaker’s ringing. The smaller the amp’s output impedance, the greater is the effect of back EMF on the speaker’s motion. An amplifi er with low output impedance short-circuits the back EMF, so the back EMF drives the loudspeaker with a relatively strong current that works against the speaker’s motion. When the speaker cone moves out, the back EMF pulls the speaker in, and vice versa. In short, the loudspeaker damps itself through the amplifi er output circuitry. The lower the impedance of that output circuitry, the more the back EMF can control the speaker’s ringing. To prove it to yourself, take a woofer that is not connected to anything. Put your ear next to the cone and tap on it. You might hear a low-pitched “bongggg” if the speaker itself is poorly damped. Now short the speaker terminals and tap again. You should hear a tighter thump. Damping factor varies with frequency. As you might suspect, damping factor is most important at low frequencies, say 10 Hz to 400 Hz. Bottom Line...... Amps with a high effective Damping Factor deliver clean, tight kick drum and bass. .................................................................................. here is an article from Richard Clark on Damping Factor http://www.monstercable.com/mpc/stable/tech/A2412_Damping_Factor_Article.pdf

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LOL......

the woofer enclosure will be coming out this week and I'll be working on the re-build as time allows

EXILE is designed and owned by the origional Pheonix Gold guys..... I tried this amp out on my four Xcon 15's and I was shocked on how hard and clean it pounded them.....nice stuff

this is going into the trunk of a buddies Lexus SC 400...... I'll be going with 1.25cf3 per sub (seperate enclosures) tuned at 32hz

you need to build a simple sealed box and do several sweeps with it facing in different directions... you will get different readings....just average it out and go with the one in the middle...you will be close

2.25cf3 plus displacements tuned at 31hz for a 12"SSA Xcon

here is a link for Canadian Customers for SSA products.... http://poundthatsound.1freecart.com/m/6160/sound-solutions-audio.htm ""all prices include shipping to your door"" I will keep them adjusted with the US/Canadian exchange I can give deals on combo's ...contact me direct

it sounds like the spider is damaged where it meets the former.....sometimes the damage can be hard to see I'd inspect it with the cone fully exerted and see if it opens up or lets loose anywhere

the number one reason for a fuel pump burning out is running the tank low on fuel (in tank pumps are cooled by the fuel) the number two reason is a plugged fuel filter..... definately not from the bass...if that were the case I would need replacement of my fuel pump daily.....LOL