Thumpper

the Icons don't need a full 1000w rms to turn on..I have installed them with only 500w rms each and they do really well I would much rather put the Icons on that amp...the bass will drop better and you will have less chance of damaging the suspension from over pushing the mechanics of the woofer....

my hearing is really good when the sound source is 145db and up

contact me via e mail...I need more info on what subs and vehicle [email protected]

1.25cf3 plus displacements tuned at 33hz

I remember a time when I though one 15" was insane LOL..... my four 15" Xcons almost knock my head off my shoulders

personally I would go Icon for the low stuff...... you do not want a peaky sub for playing the rock bottom lows..this will bring on over excursion problems don't build the enclosure to large either or you will have problems with bottoming out and over exerting

the tuning would be a little off with the BTL but it will work the same.....

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I have heard almost 170db at about 60hz but it wasn't as intense as some of those low tuned systems ..they can be felt ALOT more ..my current system completely blurrs vision at 150db

I will respond to your e mail

it was really intense....... I'v been bassless for about a month now...since the competition my amp decided to take a nap as soon as I showed up at the comp..it was a real bummer I couldn't demo it at all... I hope to have the amp back in a week or two...fingers crossed

the Kicker box has a black coating..non automotive hope that helps...LOL

I add the proper displacement to the enclosure to aquier for the bracing so it has no effect on tuning..I do have a formula for the port length..it changes with each port flare radius

you do not need sealed to produce good lows...a well designed ported application can produce sickening bottom end so far out of all the woofers I have played with the Icons have the best low end and flattest response I wouldn't hesitate to use one in my home theater system ( BING!!! future project..LOL) when I say a flat response I mean FLAT..143.6db @ 10hz and 145db @ 27hz down to 143.3db @ 35hz all measurements taken with a termlab on the dash dooes sealed with four Icon 10" ported

Ok all you electrical engineers and physicists, and other know-it-alls how does THIS work ? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NNDpcrjnAT4

running the same woofers in different enclosures is not recommended you will end up with really muddy sounding bass

the woofer enclosure and amp racks are getting an over haul once I catch up with things..... this build is not over........................................................yet

I listen to alot of retro , rock , pop and metal and I tune my systems to levetate the vehicle at 10hz with enough force to knock stuff off shelves in the house across the street..it just takes the right enclosure .a conventional woofer is so un efficient below 8hz..if you want the really low 8hz and down use low freq fan anything 8hz and down on a conventional woofer us usually amplified flutter I have experienced a true 1hz with a fan..I wish I could duplicate that in a car