calvin

damn! Sundown never ceases to amaze me! looks good! i am proud of u Jacob! u done did good for urself! :clap: by the time that "5000" comes out i will be ready!!

wanted to get something directly from fi. but yeah i know about them. they designed a box for me before.

what is the best route to get a design box build for 2 15" btls? where does everyone else get their designs from?

those are some sexy subs right there!! i know they re going to be a grip!! I AM A start saving now!

we will c. i will be installing all this sometime in the next couple of weeks. i will let let u all know how it goes.

Lol i am not scared.

i already bought all of this equipment. i think i will attempt to do the 3 way but do all my f-ing up on the daytons lol. then i will get myself some Seas CA18RNX IB, LPG 25nfa and be the man

from what i read you want to do daily. 4000 watts on daily would kill the sub. if tou are at the 3000 watt area you can probably get away with it if your box is well constructed and your electrical is stellar. but he did say more than you need. are you competing? if not then y dude? all that is really not needed and you would be imo wasting your money. just slap 2-3000 watts on them each and keep it moving. they will sound just as loud and good

when running multiple amps what is the best way to run (1) 0ga and (2) 4ga with only one run of 0ga from the battery under the hood. i am trying to avoid doing multiple runs (knu is 1.40 to 3.40 per ft.) or avoid using one of those cheap octagon looking blocks that has 6 different apps. i want to use anl fuses. 300 and (2) 100's. anyone run into this same problem and found something that worked better?

ok i got you thanks. makes sense. lol i should have just bought a component set instead of attempting a diy. dont seem to be ready for that at this point

someone over at audiocontrol told me 20,000. maybe he meant 2000. or did u mean 2000?

and now that i think about it when i had those daytons crossed over to higher than somewhere around the 220 range they started sounding horrible.

ok then i should be able to use the crossover that i have now. it will cover the frequncy range you suggested and the front high pass can cover the cdt midranges. i understand that each vehicle varies as to what a crossover point would be but help me to understand this; would it be safe to say that each speaker in a 3 way system is to pick up the next frequency that the previous speaker stopped at? ei mid bass 40-200hz, mid range 200-1000hz, tweeters 1000-5000hz. i am really trying to understand this because i dont want to buy any equipment that i cant use. i have been talking to people who are supposed professionals in this field and everything you are telling me contradicts what they have told me. not saying that you are wrong but i want to get a better picture so that i could put this pieces together. last question and i will leave you alone. what is an average frequency range of a tweeter in a car. i ask because i need some type of crossover for them because the zx100.2 that i have now doesnt allow you to get anywhere near the range of a tweeter.

any suggestions on a particular mid-bass? what frequency range i should be looking for? what does ideal mean in your opinion? and you say put them next to the mids lol which ones mid range or bass?

what do u all think about arc audio? are they a good brand?

by soldering? I have a friend with some like burnt/ broken tinsels at the end at the speaker terminal and I would just like to know lol friend huh?! u funny. u tryna be slick? we r looking at the same subs right?

no no i got that part but i asked about the recone making the sub like "new." as well as any other repair that could negate the advantage of me buying it used and saving some money opposed to new

what would be the extent of repairing a sub. does a recone make it basically a new sub again? the subs are 18" btls (old style). i am talking to a guy about buying his sub but it was owned by someone b4 him who had a stetsom 7k to it. i know they can be reconed but if i get into a jam that the subs need repair what is the most that can be done without basically purchasing a new sub thru repairs? basically is there anything that would just totally screw me and i would end up with a sub that cant be repaired or will cost a fortune to repair?

how much does a 18" btl re-cone run? it is the older model. d1 i tried to look it up on fi's site but it wont open a guy over on smd is selling an older model btl with broken tinsel leads on them. is this what a re-cone entails. are re-cones an expensive process?

what is the difference in subs that would make you suggest that one?

please dont even entertain me building one. not ready for that yet

yeah i know. i want to purchase the correct crossover tho. something that will give me some error room unlike the KX3 did. it had to be those exact points or nothing. i dunno because i may be going in the wrong direction as M5 has said maybe i could use that crossover....just dont know as of yet tho.

the daytons are mid-bass and the cdt's are midrange. and what is wrong with my crossover points? they aren't ideal because they arent logical or because they are wrong for those particular speakers or for a 3 way setup? the daytons are in my factory speaker position which is around the middle of the door. i plan on mounting the cdt's next to these but on the outside of the door panel. the tweeters will be placed at the top of the door where the dash and door meet when it is closed. my fault for sounding asinine but i have never run a 3 way setup before or even yet used crossovers. i was told these crossover points by someone who is a professional in this field so i took their advice as true. and once again the car is a lincoln towncar. specs on the speaker: Daytons: Power handling: 60 watts RMS/90 watts max * VCdia: 1.5" * Le: .86 mH * Impedance: 8 ohms * Re: 6.4 ohms * Frequency range: 40-2,200 Hz * Fs: 44 Hz * SPL: 87.6 dB 1W/1m * Vas: .76 cu. ft. * Qms: 1.91 * Qes: .58 * Qts: .45 * Xmax: 6mm * Dimensions: A: 7-1/8", B: 5-3/4", C: 3-5/8". Mid-Range:Specifications Box Volume = 0.04 cu. Ft. (1.134 liters) sealed ,Diameter: 4" (110mm) ,Sensitivity: 90.6 dB ,Power Handling: 50 Wrms (90W pk) ,Frequency Response: 50 ~ 7000 hZ ,Nominal Impedance: 4 Ohms ,Voice Coil Diameter: 1.0 (26mm) Tweeters: 120 watt RMS Frequency Response: 65-20kHz Sensitivity: 91.8 dB

No doubt I am impressed with what I saw but I am looking for a little more info than that. I have watched plenty of videos but I was looking for some testimonies through experience

here is what i am trying to run: (2) dayton rs1800 7" mid bass, (2) cdt es-04 4" mid range and (2) cdt tw25s. i want to crossover the bass at 800 and below, mid range 800-4000hz and the tweets 4000-20000hz. any ideas of a crossover or company that has the capability to run at these points. i have been looking at the 3sixty and some of audiocontrol's products. my h/u is an alpine 7897 and the amps that i have are zx650.4 and a 100.2. they will be put in a towncar. any feedback is appreciated.