SpeakerBoy

Aaron, is there any way I could get an original blue icon cap for my xcon when I order it? Or even separately?

I guess I don't have much faith in my own woodworking skills yet. To fit a pair I'd have to form it over the wheelwells in order to keep enough space for batteries (I usually build the large optimal enclosure for things and tune on the low end so I can skimp on initial power). I go overkill for electrical, I mean, since I have three batteries and a 200a alt for only 2k total system power I'll probably do eight once I'm up to 5k. I really like being able to drive somewhere isolated and park and play for a while. I'm also considering external aeros. Port area rule is the same for aeros yes? If I give them full port area with the flares I'm not facing an issue am I? Only curious because I see a lot of people skimp on port by using aeros to reduce noise.

For what they cost, the price difference isn't a concern; what do you think would suit me better based off my threads, a pair of 18's sealed or a single ported low? I am -extremely- fond of 15-35hz. Something about watching the truck flap. I'm thinking surface area is what I need to chase lower, not necessarily more power.

I'm dying to order an Xcon 18 but my Mountaineer keeps begging for attention, differential, power steering, trans fluid needs to be flushed, egr is sheared, the list goes on >:[ I understand the subjective nature of the question, but I've never owned SQ oriented woofers before, except for my IDQ15's that is. Is that the same clean clear effortless bass I can look forward to with an Xcon, but with more oomph behind it? I love the ID's but they don't get loud at all. Exceptional for HT use though =] I've wanted an SSA woofer since the original blue cap icon, and by god the wait is killing me this year! Daydreaming helps the time pass. I'm not sure if I think about anything more than my next audio adventure. I wonder if I could get an original Icon cap on my xcon o.o

I guess I'm just not mature and experienced enough to understand how you're so dull. It has me infinitely baffled.

Lol post a quote of M5 repeating what you said No balls!

Ruined my rant with a typo on the last word though It's more than music to me, so I take it somewhat seriously. Been a member on SSA since I was 13.

Billyjack, when you post false information on this forum which I consider my home on the Internet, you risk misinforming newbies and fucking up their whole learning process. Since you can't comprehend the concept of being wrong, you don't stand to learn anything. People come here to learn and progress. You come here to try and prove yourself right. Go do your buddies installs and convince them that shitshow is top notch. Stop fucking up our forum with your backasswards halfcocked shit. Learn or fuck off. Stop contaminating this site. I'm the resident loon and you make me look like a brainiac.

Do you think before you speak, or skip a step and vomit words.

And going

First time someone calls you a horse, you punch him on the nose. Second time someone calls you a horse, you call him a jerk. Third time someone calls you a horse, well maybe it's time you start shopping for a saddle.

It's more fun to laugh at you.

I literally threw up in my mouth laughing so hard at this thread. I'm in physical pain.

Yeah, but Billyjack, you're the forum's resident dumbass. You did this in my thread too, either post relevant to OP or eat a bag of dicks. OP, what's the budget?

Unless I find a rust free 2 door explorer, it's a sure thing. I'll wait to buy a car until I find the the exact one I want. I understand what you're saying though; but I bought my Mountaineer to put my BTL in, not initially for transportation. Now that I have a vehicle for transportation, I can have a side project. I see how loud my BTL gets on less than RMS and I can't argue with M5 on the point that a single woofer can do some serious work. I'm really keen on IB, but an LMS Ultra, Evil, or Team AA even would satify my itch for a while. Especially in a smaller vehicle. Not to mention the already owned BTL. M5 I'll certainly buy hearing protection for a build like this. I've seen some that attenuate evenly without muffling the sound. I'm not at all about to forget how much I value my hearing. I love loud but if I lose my ear, I'd lose my mind. Rumor has it it's way easier to find rust free vehicles down south.

You're an idiot.

I want to have a setting for truly SQ oriented output at moderate to high levels, and for when I'm listening to rap and bass tracks full tilt I'll roll the bass knob up. What tends to be the ceiling of limitations for midbass in a vehicle?

As a realistic comprimise; I've heard a 145db car and that's decent for me basswise for now, I want ruler flat response at moderate levels, full tilt is a little different I suppose. I turn down the mids to save my speakers at full tilt, and turn the mids up when I want it musical. I'm at a severe deficit of vocabulary to describe what im after so ill say "as much midbass as is possible in a door configuration without being severely uncomfortable in the driver's seat" as far as leg room. I'm 6' even. My favorite front stage I've ever seen was Justin's blazer with a fifteen a ten and a super tweet. I'd try a fifteen an eight and an AMT-Pro. But I don't know how much the door size affects the fifteens response. I'm probably going for a system that requires hearing protection for demos. I like to FEEL as much of the music as possible. I really think that's why I like it loud. I have my Mountaineer for transportation of schtuff, the subie is for audio and having fun at the track. What are the right questions for me to be asking so I'm not running in circles on this? I'll put a pair of fifteens in each door and bolt in Windows if that's what it takes.

What's a good place to start as far as designing a violent midbass setup. I'll spend 2/3 of my total budget for audio on front stage. I do already have a pair of IDQ15's and a Fi BTL on hand to keep me occupied. I'm interested in SPL to weight ratio, and I want it flat from 15-75hz with front stage that can handle the job of keeping up with 145-150db on music. I want to complete one and tailor the other to suit it; and from what you're saying Front stage first. I'm not solely after loud. I want pristine mids and highs as well, and I mean a system that I do not grow tired of. Holographic imaging, gut wrenching kickdrums, zero sibilance are some things I can list im after. Ultimately my money always returns to speakers. Keeps me off drugs. Last time I woke up on lifesupport so ultimately, no pricetag will dissuade me from achieving my goal.

Stop posting until you read the whole post. I'm going to take measurements, and decide what design applies best. I'm sure, just to piss you off I could do four on the front baffle and four in a diamond configuration recessed in the center, opposed firing. Clearly I don't value your opinion, stop offering it. I give you hella bad rep when you say dumb stuff. Get your tongue out of M5's asshole lmao. Sean, I....got this itch man. I'd have to get a sedan to do IB if I don't get the wagon, and I reallllly like the wagons. I don't mind no backseat, and I'll still have a WHOLE trunk. I suppose another option is an EF hatch, but I really want another vehicle with AWD. Mmmm. I could even do six twelves and mount the amp on the front of the baffle, for super short wire runs. Basics is, six woofers, Lithium power, stained birch, and 5-8k rms. Vehicle dimensions and how crazy I can get with baffle design is gonna determine the size. I'll have enough bass, and for low to moderate listening, infinitely low response (the goal). Spose I could wall the Neer and do a sealed setup in the wagon to keep it light for the track. I'll know more when I get some measurements. Who else buys vehicles around the build and not the other way around lmao

I won't have 10x VAS but I'm sure I'll be satisfied with output. Two IB3's would still be plenty. One would be plenty. Once I get a free day, it's off to a dealership to measure an actual vehicle so I'll know what size constraints I'll be facing. I have no idea what you're trying to say about cancellation, I love opposed firing woofers. Sexy and sturdy. Clam shells rule. You sound like a highschooler who studies at best buy. Don't post on my thread with gibberish and bullshit. Do your research, or keep it to yourself. Look at your rep. Everyone thinks you're an idiot but you. Stop humiliating yourself. If you can't provide FACTS I have no interest in your "wisdom" scientific, mathematical evidence on how I'm wrong or eat my ass. Jesus fucking Christ you're dull. I push limits and learn to achieve a satisfactory result with less. Always after a lower note. G'day mate.

You literally didn't answer any of my questions. Fail. Not looking for woofer suggestions. Deliberately intend to pursue an IB build, and I already own a Fi BTL 18. With as much displacement as I'll have, in a vehicle this size, I'll have sufficient output. One 18 on 1.5k in my Mountaineer is almost where I need it, so six on 7k in a smaller walled car should be a little closer to where I want it. I've owned plenty of ported and sealed as well as a few shitbox bandpasses. IB bass holds an allure to me, it's always so effortless. Wattage isn't everything bro. I can get nearly full excursion on a BTL off of 1.5k rms. Enclosure is far more important than drowning a woofer in power.

My next car is hopefully going to be a 2002 Subaru Sti hatch, and I'm going to wall it with 6 Fi IB3's on a 7k. Pic 1 Pic 2 My first question is, should I build just a baffle, was thinking 9" baffle; or should I build a partial box and with the back seat removed leave the rear open to the trunk and deaden the fuck out of the lid, along with magnetic locks around the perimeter to keep it from slapping? The second smaller question is, I was daydreaming and thought of putting a trapdoor in the trunk floor on actuators to vent to the ground when I'm driving on the highway or at a show for more airflow. Worth it, or just a nice passing thought? I also thought about building the partial shell, but leaving the rear windows exposed so I could lower them for the same effect. I'm going to try an angled baffle, a slight clam or something in a U shape to shoehorn IB3 18's but if not, six fifteens. Does a massively oversized Sealed box act as an IB enclosure or do you want the losses(provided waves are still separated) I saw a vic with six fifteens IB and he literally dismantled it because flex was violating the car so badly. Hence the partial shell idea, to keep the roof, floor and rear window in tact. I'm super stoked for this. My parents will match me dollar for dollar on the car, so if I pay the whole note I'll have 5-7k for the build. Mids and highs will probably be full Morel or Dayton AMT-Pro's and Evil mids. Are 8" evil mids in the works? Once the build is completed, I'm gonna sleeve the block and boost the piss out of it.

I read it as YOU were saying subs can't play below FS. Mah bad. I love Type R's that's why I got defensive I had a pair that dropped pretty low even in a dorky best buy prefab, and they take more power than they seem like they could.