SpeakerBoy

That's what the fuck is up.

Running a fully loaded ufo btl 18

I would wait till summer when you can do it the right way. I'd say the same, but 22w rms per door will not mean anything to a BTL.

I have a fully loaded ufo BTL D2, and was considering selling/trading it for a fully loaded SP4. But, i'm not sure after reading around....

bump

What kind of music do you listen to, and how much space are you willing to sacrifice.

Do you have any suggestions? I can't modify the doors til summer, no time or tools but I can at least pick the right drivers. I just don't want to have to settle with some walmart coaxials in the mean time.

each door has a 6.5" mount, no upgrade as far as stereo, maybe on an envoy or a bravada.

Run a pair. I suppose you COULD feed it 1250w rms....but why? It's not meant for that, so don't be surprised if it fails. Perhaps go smaller. If he had a 15, run two 12s, or if he had a 12, run two 10s.

For the time being, how about this, Two pairs of http://www.parts-express.com/faitalpro-6fe100-6-professional-midrange-midbass-woofer-8-ohm--294-1150, front and back, and when it's warmer, and when I have more time, and the supplies, I can take the rears and build pods for two in each front door. I'll also run tweeters on the dash. I had alpine components in the front before, the midrange was nice, but the midbass was lacking by far, and the tweeters didn't seem as clear as I'd like. I'll also be getting a Zed Mikro to power the doors. Not sure on the tweeters yet.

No such thing as too much electrical

Psychoacoustics?

My system seems crisper and more accurate when it's freezing outside, however, it seems louder when it's warmer

Talking about an S-10 Blazer 4dr SUV I'm stuck in illinois for court til june.

Kept the BTL after all.

Suggestions?

That's a noble reason to shut down I suppose.

What are the best parts of the door to deaden to improve midbass response?

I could do the mids and highs passive, with the eights active as midbass, on a crescendo 1100.4 i think I could get fives to work in the dash cutouts too.

Would pwx 6.5's and coaxial 4x6's screech hard enough? I'll get a suitable 4ch to power them.

My BTL survived Could I do eights in the doors, 4's or maybe 5.25's in the dash, then tweeters/horns?

I don't want to run rear speakers, and I was told here that 6's wouldn't keep up with what I was running, so I thought I'd try to fit 8's in the front doors. I remember hearing that someone here had done it to their blazer without pods, but I don't remember how they said they did it. I would run a pair of Crescendo PWX-8's and a pair of their tweeters. If the eight had trouble reaching up high enough, I could put a pair of 4's or 4x6's in the dash, in the factory locations to help with vocals.

I decided on a vehicle, and am just waiting for my check; In the mean time, I have some money set aside to start on the system in the new truck. So far i've decided on the equipment for the front stage (Zed and Crescendo speakers) just not how many lol. I think $1250-1500 is fair for a setup; and that's what i'll put towards the subs. (tax money will pay for the front stage ) My goal is as loud as possible below 40hz. I sold my BTL this morning, bittersweet, I only got to enjoy it for a few days before losing my truck But the new plan is a bunch of obsidians on a hifonics BRX 2400. I'm thinking four 18's, 24cubes @ 30hz. That is about half the budget there, plus another 300 for the amp; and five hundred for a HO alt; I'll probably build the box myself, nothing fancy, just right angles and four holes plus a port. I am open to any suggestions, however I'd like to keep it below 5krms though.

It's something ///M5 would imagine I would run in my car. In other words, nameless junk? Seems like a mystery woofer. What's the word.... Frankenwoofer.

The problems with 4 wheel drive is they suck on ice like everything else. Ice can just eat a dick. As well as drunk drivers but I mean, this could ignite a rant if i'm not careful lol