NDMstang65

We'll gladly take care of a manufacturing defect. Truth of the matter is all of the soft parts are the exact same on the N2..as every other woofer. There is 16 tinsel leads on every one of them, there is absolutely no other way that we can beef them up any more with that style of basket. It is what it is. Probably yanked it below tuning and that one sub moves more then the rest of them in that box and popped the lead. A recone will definitely fix it, but if you do not put a loading panel or something beside/behind the woofer to get it to load properly like the rest it'l simply happen again. Put a picture of the suspension up here.

SPL is face value..this means competition geared in mind..higher motor force etc. We've harped and harped and harped about the difference between the N2 and N3...there is a ton of information out there that says exactly what it is targeted towards. We do not feel that the N3 is ideal for daily driving and a musical scenario. It is geared for the guy who competes most of the time and is playing higher frequency stuff and not much if any music at all. This is not to say that it will not play music..because yes it will, it just yields a less then desirable response curve. Which..is where the N2 comes in. The N2 is geared for daily driving and musical scenarios. The N3 is geared with SPL competitions in mind..it is focused on higher power handling and not so musical scenarios. It does not mean that it will sound horrible, but the frequency response graph yields a 'saddle shape' in the response curve and it does not peak and roll off like the N2 does. The N1 has not been released, and will not be released until we are ready. It is not a BL alternative, but a light weight SQ oriented woofer with a long coil and high xmax and lower power handling (800-1000ish watt range) When you come here this should not be your first rodeo...this stuff is focused for the DIY guy who is not doing things for the first time. Hence why lower series woofers have less options and ways of customization. When you get into the N2 and N3 range you should know what you are doing...2-3kw on a sub will nuke it in a heart beat. If you do not, I am sorry...it is up to you to figure out how to set things up properly. We put all of the information readily out there, if you do not watch the youtube videos and read the tech stuff..it is hardly our fault that you burned the sub up. You then get to pay for a recone to fix it and learned a lesson. What you are seeing now is the very tip of the iceberg for what we can and will offer. Keep in mind this is the DIY market, there is little coddling and hand holding here. If you want to be coddled that is what the AA brand is for, for retailers to walk you through every step of the way and do everything for you and you pay extra for that service that they offer. We are always available to email and ask questions about what would work best for a particular install. If you chose not to listen to us, it is not our problem..our guidelines are there as is the information.

How the hell are you gonna do that? if you don't have clamp meters? .. So this test is already worhtless before you begin it.. If the DD wins this one i'll take off my hat for this one. My friend will have his clamp meters We are just doing a basic test man. It's not going to be in all professional That's exactly it. If the all mighty DD wins when it has the power disadvantage we will know who is king. No..it is not a definitive answer, there is no definitive answer. It is not black and white like that..the only thing that can be said is speaker X was louder then speaker Y in this very specific install. It does not remain constant at all what so ever . Some speakers work better in some applications..for reasons that simply is a waste of time to find out.

I'd do a single 12 in a ported box BL series would be fine.

ahhh...college kids from my school did it up right last night. http://www.wdbj7.com/news/wdbj7-video-radford-university-errupts-after-news-of-osama-bin-laden-killing-20110502,0,5883239.story

ahhhhhhhhh so he was down on backalackadacka street? ...walked right past him 25 times.

You better be careful what solvent you put on that paint...or you are going to be in for a paint job too on the outside of the car from overspray.

Neo is not happening for the SSD. It would have to be priced in the N2 range...and it is not adding that much performance, it is still an SSD.

..been that way for months Not releasing it or doing anything with it until we've got everything under control with our US vendors and such.

I'm still not sure what this ultimately means. Are we two weeks away, or something much greater because of unforeseen Spider and motor changes? No idea where you are getting a spider change from that? As he said..we are in the middle of sampling steel parts for forgings...and we should be in stock with them a week after the baskets. The baskets are 2 weeks out (we got the sample in tuesday)..so that would mean that the steel parts are ballparked around 3 weeks to the best of our knowledge...until we have something more concrete then that...I can not put a exact date. We can't forsee things that are outside of our control...we're simply going by what our vendors are telling us.

If the dustcap of the sub is hot..and it is not moving, you have a coil out of phase. Take the sub out take a picture of both terminals label them 1 and 2, positive should always be on your left. Occasionally there is one that has the bands mixed up on the wrong side...it does happen once in a blue moon we miss it and dont get them swapped over.

Recones definitely take a back seat to new customers...we are doing good to turn them around in 2-3 weeks right now. 15's aren't a problem.

No idea man.

Relax man..we do not have any 18" baskets anyhow...we can't build it for at least 2 weeks..already pulled the order and have it sat aside, just have not had a chance to call you.

Should work..those are standard bolt patterns for baskets, there are 6 screw holes on them...

If you've got a set of calipers shoot me an OD on that coil.

Generally..only way that happens is if the terminal has been bumped in shipping or when put in the box, which is why we glue them on.. Recone will fix it..leads are probably burnt up inside.

May sound dumb..but if you've still got the rockford amp, throw it back in there and see how it acts.

A LOT has changed and happened since then... Last thing we're concerned about right now are lanyards and what not. Moving all of this stuff state side has been a huge pain (as everybody knows) Until we are rolling smooth with all of this new stuff..it has to wait.

http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10244 Pocket sized oscope..size of a garmin...100 bucks.

Probably can't keep up

Did you upgrade your electrical system?