NDMstang65

Welcome to my world...it involves yelling at the computer screen, calming down, and then responding with a smile. I am in the process of making movies to explain things due to the lack of people wanting to read. The attention span of our target audience is the same of a gnat due to twitter, facebook, myspace, youtube, and texting. If you aren't tweeting and constantly saying HEY LOOK WHAT I CAN DO..with a video or a picture they zone out. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the speakers...if i said this once, i've said it a thousand times. Speakers are stupid. They simply do..what you tell them to do. In the environment that you place them in. As stated, ^^^ He is correct with his statements. Edit: All of the soft parts, coils, spiders etc. included are 100% the same from the previous BTL. We backed motor strength down on the N2 simply because it causes a dip in the response curve in a daily driving application.

Not even going to lie..I roll my sub off at 18dB/octave at 56Hz. Mids with balls help

I'm not afraid to cut. It's getting cut more soon as well

Shouldn't be playing the 'high' frequencies anyhow.. Too much gain and volume knob could be making the moving assembly freak out.

Negative

Seeing as how the coil looks..I would put money on your amplifier is in the process of dieing..and/or has already died and taken out a sub with it. That coil has been HOT. Not so hot that it has been white, but it has gotten over 500 degrees...it will not debond and shift/slink like it did unless the bonding agent on the glue gasses which happens around 525 degrees. We'll definitely work on you for a recone and such..but I would look long and hard at the amp first. Speakers are stupid, they just do what they are told. Whether it be by you and the volume knob or the amp itself. There are no mechanical marks on the coil and the spider assembly was not rocking. "Since I haven't gotten my electrical problems fixed my voltage is dipping down far below this" ^^^^ That is really hard on an amp, and it will cause it to flip out and die..definitely shortening the lifespan.

At least 6 weeks out.

You can't link things like that here, click on your gallery, then open the image. Click 'copy image location' (if you have firefox) http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/uploads/1286406401/med_gallery_7996_532_14314.jpg You will get that then put in the img tags of

Think about that rationally for just one second...and you'll think otherwise.. Why would we be moving all of our raw steel production here..farther advancing technology..and make an inferior product to what we previously made? Come now. That's just stupid. We backed down motor force on the N2 for a reason, if he thinks that is "worse" then cool. He does not understand how it works...more motor force is not always and necessarily better. When you have too much for a daily driving application you simply lose your peak..it turns into a saddle shaped response curve because you are not getting the Qts shift. There's only 2 "Fi guys" that anybody would talk to..and Scott and myself say the exact same thing as I just said above.

Whats BL stand for? buzz lightyear

N2 man..tellin ya N3 too much.

Gotcha.. It will go braaaaaaaaaaap and that's about it. No cooling, no music.

You aren't going to need specs...it's an SPL only burping woofer..if you are modeling things in a box program and playing in SPL you are playing soccer..but on the rugby field. NSG is totally different than the SMD and is/does look like Tetris gone bad. N3's will be up in the next few days.

Going to have more displacement with the BTL's...

IMO ~6 cubes per sub works best. Keep in mind you are not going to be able to run 10kw to the Mayhem's.

Here's the thing... If you want to pay 30-40 dollars for a dustcap..cool. We have to stock those, and they are not cheap..which is more items we would have to put money into instead of putting that money into more toolings on new viable stuff that would actually enhance performance. Our options add more performance than anything...which is what we're after, something worth paying for instead of something that is just like a type-r sticker on a civic. You can not run one of the big dished dustcaps unless you have a pole vent. The big dish cover will split in half as it can not take the pressure of our cooling methods. No poly dustcap can handle it, not even if you put the cool little plastic coil cap that we did at RE 10 years ago on the SE's and SX's...it will split that in half as well, then split the dustcap in half. It simply can not take the pressure, regardless of what others may think

Cone is supposed to be like that..if you made it 'slick' the paper/pulp would look like a maaco paint/body job. That's as close as we can get with the 'skin'..it has to have bumps in it. The only way to make a cone look smooth is to use metal, which snaps, or plastic, which snaps... Havoc's and Q's are comparable.

Not going to happen. The boobs are here to stay.

1500 watts

Old 2 stack Q or the single slug?

Someone on another forum was saying that he was going to base his decision on what numbers my brother's N2 ends up doing when he gets the electrical to turn his amp up from this video The sub ends up being a pretty small factor, in terms of putting up a number on the TL, when compared to the many variables that go into a build. :facepalm: So if i built a box and made the sub play and it turned a 157 on the termlab because I yanked the K factor way up he'd buy it instead of something that did a 149..because he thinks his is going to do a 157? sigh.

Need some more info. What subs were they? What size? Dustcap color? Options? Was your information included in the packaging?

nothing wrong with the sub...that happens on refresh rate of the camera, and the microphone is EASILY over loaded. (I can overload the mic on my phone because my voice is too deep...i have busted friends ear pieces in the past) ..whoever buys something basing their decision of a video on youtube is..questionable anyhow.

...it's on a 300 watt amp probably clipped to death read the replies on youtube