NDMstang65

We can build you a recone if ya want..

lol. Well I'm glad there are companies like Fi and Sundown Audio. Unfortunately when you have to use those "other brands", things can happen I guess. Uh..not to burst your bubble or anything...but.. Those amps aren't made here.

Welcome to the world of somebody "making" something..not really making it..and not having a clue how any of it works. It's called..manupackering. They get it..take it out of the box..test it..yep it works..and out the door it goes. With not a clue in the world what is going on If the sub is freaking out on the lower notes then turn the filter up higher..you are playing below a set tuning frequency where it should roll off..not flap about and unload destroying the sub.

Speakers are stupid, they do what you tell them to do. Regardless, odds are the subsonic filter pot on that amplifier and the screen print on that amplifier is off. They probably cut a deal on their buddy's pots at the factory in china or korea..and used 20% variance pots instead of 2%.. So if the screen print on the amplifier says you are tuning it to "30Hz" you are really tuning it in the 18-20Hz range...which will cause massive over excursion yanking sot parts past mechanical limitations below tuning. You also have the next issue of a cheap korean/chinese amp that has ultra high switching frequency on the output transistors trying to gain efficiency....that high frequency is not filtered out. It microwaves the tinsel leads and makes them glow. The only problem is this is like putting diesel fuel in a gas car. Nothing inherently wrong with the car..or the diesel fuel. You put the two together and bad things happen. JL used to have in their old 1000/1 amplifier manual openly admitting that 25Hz screened on the amp was actually 17Hz..and 60Hz screened on the amp was about 75Hz.

I guess you missed the big KEEP YOUR PACKAGING sticker on the outside of the box and the paper on the inside of it lol.

BL 12 – Ported box we recommend using 1.8-2.5 cubic feet @ 30-37Hz (I personally think that a 32hz tuning is optimal, and has the most output and is still the most musical daily driving). Use 12-16 square inches of vent area per cubic foot of volume. I don't understand what you mean by the mounting depth of the OD? If you are flush mounting something then just use 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF and you'll be fine. Cut the outer piece a little bigger then the outer diameter of the woofer to give you some wiggle room.

70 pounds

You heard wrong.. They're rated at 2000 watts RMS. ..there is no peak rating..as it doesn't matter and is nothing but smoke and mirrors. "Peak" is when something blows. So..when it's dead..then you found the peak. But that is completely dependent upon the person behind the controls as speakers are stupid and do exactly what you tell them to do in the environment that you put them in. You must set your gains up properly, (it is not a volume knob), you MUST run an adjustable subsonic filter that is set 2-3Hz below the port tuning frequency. You must also NEVER run any sort of bass boosting features of any kind.

You need an external adjustable subsonic filter on that amp..and that is over twice the recommended power we suggest using... It wouldn't be far fetched to say you're going to break something

Too much power in my eyes. But it isn't my problem if you break it..can't say I didn't tell you so. Subsonic filters MUST be set 2-3Hz below port tuning.

OD and everything is on the site..under the specs of every sub.

P chamfer is included with cooling. Q Enclosure Recommendations - SSA Car Audio Forum Tech section is your friend

Somebody needs an adjustable subsonic filter You've probably locked up and popped the spiders underneath of it and yanked the tinsel leads..what you've posted only happens if something moves too much.. It'l need a recone.

Don't order pistons for a detroit diesel engine for a cummins Yeah it's still a piston..and yeah they are both diesels..but it isn't going to work.

Sounds like you killed the amp too.. Unhook it completely and then just hook the power, ground and remote back up.. If it doesn't come out you'll have to get it repaired or get a new one..

You are trying to drive a dead short..it's not going to come out of protect if you still have it hooked up to the burned up sub. It's like throwing a wrench on a battery..

Sounds like you blew it..

To those who are currently on the BTL back order you will be receiving a call tomorrow (Yes, Saturday) in regards to the current back order status. You will be receiving a phone call somewhere between 9 and 5 pacific standard time tomorrow. I'm sending an email out now to those who have emailed in regards to this matter. Thanks! Nick

Better turn it down or you're going to break the sub... A gain isn't a volume knob chief.

A gain..isn't a volume knob. It should be set once and never touched again. A volume knob..is a volume knob

Figh inFinite.. not 'eff eye' as the second letter is not capitalized and it isn't an acronym.. Not 'Fee' as it would be spelled..Fee..

Depends on the loose nut behind the controls...speakers are stupid and do what you tell them to do. Having your gain at "50%" means absolutely nothing. 50% and a 5v deck..would mean that you are clipping the immortal hell out of it...

Waste of time..as that is considering the woofer in an anechoic environment..which a car is definitely the polar opposite of that. Stick to our box guidelines, it is what works best for our subs. Just use WinISD to calculate the port if that is what you are going for .

I've got a BTL in my home theater.. It sounds fantastic... What it boils down to is the loose nut behind the controls and how to tune things. But to say it sounds like crap is completely wrong.

If it wasn't superior in every way then it would make no sense to make a new one and spend money on new forging's etc. It's better...in every way. Tons of more options...more ways to make things to suit you.