SoundSplinter

Glad to hear the troubleshooting went well Don't want to suck all the juice outta yo' ride

Allright allright.. let's not get too flame happy here I think this thread has run its course. Thanks again to those who keep an eye out on the other forums for me

Saw this on caraudio.com today, check it: http://web.archive.org/web/20020808224043/...rces/fiberfill/ I don't think you would need polyfill in the ported box, but hey the chit's cheap so go ahead and give it a shot. If you don't like it, get it outta there. Just make sure not to stuff the port and secure it so that it doesn't go blowin' out the enclosure as Supa_c noted.

Yes, that was indeed a misunderstanding. I told the people down in La Jolla to simply take those woofers and set them aside until I get a chance to come down and test them myself, but aparently they took it upon themselves to test it on the spot and then give the guy some hassle trying to say that they weren't going to cover the damn thing . I certainly don't appreciate that they took it into their hands to turn away my customer, and will be speaking with them about this when I head down there in the next few days. I went ahead and followed up in the thread on caraudio to explain what happened. Really sucks for the buyer after all this strife, to have to be given more run-around.. I just hope he doesn't nuke those subs before he reads my post!

Free-air, huh?

There will be discounts for personal orders of 2 or more units, yes. Final drivers should be nearing completion at the end of this month! For now, sit tight!

Yes, indeed be quite careful with your gain setting. I didn't intend for it to be common-place to use 1000+ watts on the RL-p series drivers. People just seem to like pushing things to the limit Nudge down the gain slightly and EQ the bass if necessary, but your driver should perform quite well with lower gain/power. If you believe this to be a driver error, please email me directly describing in detail what you have done, and provide any other images or video if you have them available. Good luck!

Yep, I saw the video and emailed the person about his options. I will cover those woofers under warranty even though I am a bit at a loss as to why the woofers are respoding that way, seeing as both of us were on the line when those products were tested before our eyes and they passed through fine Ah well, you win some and you lose some - the buyer and I will work it out in private from here. Thanks for keepin' an eye out for me.

I'm on it - thanks. It's too bad that user is having such a tough time with his RL-i's. Totally uncharacteristic of those drivers based on my experience as well as that of many people (friends and internet buyers) that have used the RL-i10's as well. Don't really know what to say, but I offered him a full return credit if he'd like to try out some of the Premium drivers. There's gotta be something else happening with his setup though..

60ndown, I think you're the cool cat from Santa Cruz - in which case you were shipped a dual 4ohm (D4) subwoofer as stated in your invoice. If you're not, shoot me an email with your order number and I can tell you. Alternately you can test the coil as Kent has suggested

The fish still doesn't explain why you put a hotdog in the tank!

Congrat's! That's very cool But yes, what kinda doctor we talkin' here?

Wow you must've really juiced that sucka!

tez224, if you only had your gain up for a short while when you were experiencing the noise problem then you're probably in the clear. That is to say, if it sounds fine now, you didn't beat 'em up too bad! MrSwiss, indeed you are probably hearing a combination of the noise created when the coil starts to hit the backplate in addition to the quick moving stress on the suspension (soft parts including the surround and spiders). It's obviously not advised, but if you crank it up in that range for only a short while everything should still work just fine as long as you aren't pushing it so hard that you end up tearing and bending things.

Yea it sounds like you are likely clipping your amplifier. The RL-p should not be making any pinging noises unless they are receiving a distorted signal or are being overdriven and hitting the backplate of the T-yolk. You may also want to give your drivers a thorough visual inspection to ensure that all parts are still properly glued together as there is always the off-chance that some seperation could occur. If you are really dying for more output, you can wire 'em up for 1ohm operation (each seeing 1250wrms). If you do wire to 1ohm though, you'll need to be even more cautious with that gain adjustment so keep that in mind! You could also consider raising your tuning up to 34 Hz for a tiny bit more output over the most commonly played musical frequencies. Be gentle

Thanks for the kind compliments Jerry - it was a pleasure meeting you and your son, albeit for only a brief time. Hope you found a good place for lunch!.. would've loved to join ya if I didn't have to go pick up that free matress + box-spring set off my friend (though at least now I have a decent spot to rest my head at my new place )! .. and hey, I don't know you talkin' about looking pissed off! You're one helluva nice guy

Nice car!

I wouldn't recommend using 600 watts on an RL-i. It is unecessary, the RL-i is not an SPL oriented driver, and if it actually saw that amount of power often, you would be putting it at significantly higher risk for failure than if you were utilizing it with it's recommended 350 watts. Sorry for the bad news!

Yep, probably wouldn't want to go with the 0.7 cu ft box on the dual setup. Find a way to get at least 1 cu ft + polyfill or preferably 1.25-1.4 cu ft per rl-p12. The 8's are an idea too, but it will be at least 30 days (possibly 60) before they are finished retooling and back in production.

Now come on flakko, get that chit installed!

B)

Thanks for the heads up - you guys are gold! Too bad to hear about spiceflow's misfortune! But honestly how much more output can you expect when going from one ported to two sealed drivers of similar capacity? Live and learn.. as we all do!

Allright, enough eD bashing. Don't want to perpetuate a flame fest here

No offense taken.. but you said you own an RL-p yourself - so do you still think it hardly moves when you look at it first hand? Keep in mind that Xmax is a potential figure, not an absolute. There are many factors that come into play to determine if and when a woofer will reach its maximum excursion. Personally speaking, I'm much more concerned with how a woofer sounds than how much it moves. Nonetheless, rest assured that those Xmax figures come straight from Dumax and the engineers who build these drivers and I have not manipulated them one bit. I really wish I had my laptop on me right now (it's at the new place I'm moving into), as I have a video of an RL-p15 being fed with a frequency oscillator and it indeed gets moving quite a bit. If you want to see some movement, start with a really low frequency tone in free-air and crank up the juice - I'm sure you'll be presented with some serious movement. I'll also make an effort to get back here with those videos as soon as I can.