cjosisek90

So I am off on my way to school when all of a sudden my car decides to play games with me...Ok so I let it go but then it kept doing it and over and over till it got a little serious. It started to reset the head unit by turning it off and then back on. My engine check light was blinking repeatedly. My ABS lights came on. And my power steering gave out but some how managed to come back. I called my brother up and he told me that I should clean all the ends of the wires and clean the terminals of the battery up front. So I did. Works like it was never even broken. Then after driving around for a half hour seeing a movie with my girlfriend, we chilled at her place. She needed to get some treatment done to her so i decided to leave and then the ABS lights popped up again and the head unit keeps shutting off and turning back on. Be advise this has happened without my amp and back battery plugged in. Can anyone tell me what possibly could be wrong? I have a 95 Honda Accord. A interstate battery up front. A D3100 in the back. All 1/0 gauge wire including Big 3. And a stock alternator. Thanks, Curt

Dual as in 2v? On the jensen specs it says preamp or postamp voltage = 4volts No, Dual meaning the company. Worst purchase I bought but it was cool to have a flip up head unit.

I agree with Jon, you guys should act your own age and grow up, let him be 14. Stop being arsehos. Thank you. And Jon, i dont get the logic either, i take advice, and i am wrong for doing what they told me to do...? Update, car is falling apart, even shakin the back seat loose (it doesnt fold like a normal car, it is bolted down, with a thing in the middle that goes into the trunk. The left tail-light is coming loose, and rattles up a storm, as well as something under the car (probably a bad thing, seeing as for the past three days we have been trying to figure it out, and have come up with nothing...) what is the best price-to-product ratio for sound dampening materials? only ones i know of are dynamat, d-amplifier, and hushmat. hopefully, it isnt a buttload of cash and we can deaden relatively soon, rattling is heard over the bass but other than that, we need to get some door speakers, and some tweets. and oh yeah, an amp for the doors, dedicating HU for tweets directly. if anyone has any suggestions, just....uhh....well post teacher is coming up to my row, have to go thanks for any advice, -Chris You wanna dedicate a HU (head unit I am assuming) to just tweets? My head unit can control the speakers with one setting and the sub on a completely different setting. The current head unit I have is the 2008 Pioneer Premier. You should look into that one. Its on the SSA shop too.

I was going to be charged 900 dollars for a 4 cuft box to be made at a local audio shop near me.

If this kid wasn't that immature I would take him seriously, but its kinda hard when this 14 year old wants to put a wall in his very FIRST car, start off with a 2000 dollar system, and last but not least, dedicates a book bag full of speakers. I'm sorry, but please, just grow up.

.............FAIL LOL http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...amp;hl=backpack

Dual = sucks Piece of shit cd player barely works.

You should enter your book bag into competitions.

Exactly. I have a sundown and it worked fine with just a d3100 in the back. I will have a red top in the front by the end this week to replace an old interstate battery

Don't be lazy, make one. Take pictures of redoing your install. Simple and its a plus. Makes your install look cleaner that it was before.

I like to play beer games away from my car. Also this could be considered drinking and driving even if the car is in park. Thanks.

Ok thanks everyone for the reply i think i got my decision.

My friends head unit did that too, it could be a low voltage problem. I MAY be wrong though.

How can the amp manual tell you what size alt you need? Every car, every application is different. The current needs for every system is different. For music, the stock alt with some extra batteries should be sufficient. If you look at the manual it tells you how to hook up the amp and then a picture of the alt with a box that says 140amps minimal I believe.

The minimal amps your alternator needs to put out for a kicker2500.1 is 140amps. Your alt should do just fine till you get everything else in place before you upgrade alts. (Friend purchased a kicker2500.1 so thats how I know. Also check your manual, it tells you that as well.)

The ring terminals were for the batcap i think. That's where the extra 4 came from i believe.

He actually did the Big 3 before the install but never fused the wire going from the batt+ to the alt (If that were the case). But there were wires that were hanging over near the alt and that must have caused it to melt which lead to the melted wires and I dunno how blown fuses but yea. Thanks for everyone's input, Curt

Anyone wanna share any experiences using this. I am thinking about getting it. I seen it in action but since its not actually mine i haven't gotten the full experience of it. Is it worth getting? http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/zencart...;products_id=35

Ok, my friend got his car back from the shop today and he said that the alternator is now working properly and doing 234amps at some rpms I forget. But there were melted wires and blown fuses and that's what the problem was he said. But all is good now. Thanks for all who replied and much appreciated, Curt

I decided to just pay 10 bucks for a box. Jacob its an effin huge box lol so don't be to surprised. I shipped it out today and ill PM you the tracking number. Curt

I would get your tuning frequency and box volume from a different calculator and then just use the dimensions from the calculator you used onto the RE calculator to print out the cut sheet. The cut sheet is pretty much the most resourceful thing on there. I know SSA has a calculator (sorry to lazy to get the link while at school). The RE calculator sets your your frequency and i believe your box volume lower than it should be.

I don't have any cardboard boxes that will fit it, ill try to snag some from work and make one but I wasn't provided with one and thought since shipping was decent that it didn't matter, I guess I'll stop by work after school before I go back up to UPS to get a better box.

Ok, I put my invoice in the box and the one you told me earlier on the outside till ups takes care of it.

Is it, Sundown Audio ATTN: WARRANTY SERVICE 151 Rebel Hill DR. Mooresville NC, 28115 ?

That may not be sufficient unless you have extremely good packing around the amp inside the carton. Did you include your invoice too ? The inside is well package from when I got it so i doubt that the shipping was the problem. (Wouldn't other pieces be messed up as well if that were the case?) Ricky did his part and I don't want him to take the blame for this. EDIT: I did remember to include it. Thanks, Curt