lithium

ok after a bit of research ive decided to try something alittle different then the standard 2 way with a mid and tweet. what i'd like to attempt will use a midbass with a small full range driver. current stuff equipment- Clarion DXZ785USB, kicker 100.2, kicker 250.2, pg rsd 6.5" components. door treatment- 2 layers of raammat on inner and outer, plus a layer on door panel speaker location- mids in doors, tweeters in diy a-piller pods aimed towards the middle (driver sides about 30 degrees off axis) sub stage- AA arsenal but usually i have it turned down and blended in unless im feeling like some rap... --------------- plan is to throw the biggest and baddest midbass in the door that i can and either mount the full range, in a similar manner as the tweeter, in the a-piller or try some kick pods... what im trying to achieve is a easy to implement sound stage where id have great midbass and a detailed midrange with a soft high end. others who have tried this say it requires less tuning then comparable "normal" 2 way set ups. also with the current 2 way im am severely off axis to the driver side mid.. like 80 or 90 degrees off lol, listening preferences- metal, rock, alternative, (bands like metallica, nirvana, alice in chains, the mars volta, sound garden, megadeth, etc) ---------------- budget 200 or so.. ---------------- install specifics- stock location was 5.25" but i made a mdf baffle to fit 6.5s.. 8s would be cool but im not sure if i wana cut up my doors or not, YET... depth wise, with my current baffle, im somewhere close to 3.25 inch available. i dont want to rule speakers out on depth just yet so lets say i can get anything in there up about 4inch mounting depth. ========= speaker selection time!!! midbass!... these will only have to play as high as 200~ hz tops, could go higher if anyones think they should peerless sls 6.5" link mli-6.5" AA carbon 7" Tang Band W6-1139SI 6.5" (its a sub but for some reason i thought these could play up a tad higher... i think i read it on diyma... ill try to find it) link open to suggestion here, but im leaning hard on the peerless sls... full range... i was thinking 3 inchers here Fostex FF85K 3" Full Range link Tang Band W3-1364SA 3" Bamboo Cone Driver link i pretty much stopped looking after seeing the fostex, looks very capable, from its specs and what others have said.. -------------- well, sorry for the long post guys... if anyone manages to get this far down the page id appreciate some input!! ill be posting some pics shortly

well thats alittle hit and miss from what some ppl experience... sometime ppl run into a situation where the sub enclosure is too big and effectively "chokes" the path that the sound would travel from the trunk of the car to cabin... (unless u do a wall haha) i cant say if this will happen to u or if u will even be able to get a box for 2 15's into your trunk... without actually building it in the trunk itself... keep doin research before u buy your system! its not so much the equipment thats the issue... install is everything!

id budget kinda like this... (just an example) deadening-raammat-150* sub-single 15 fi bl w/ options-400* amp-sundown-sae 1200d- 350* total- $900 *estimated w/ shipping **the only product i have had personal experience with is the raammat, i picked the bl cause u wanted something Fi for subs... and i picked the sundown cause i want to buy it for myself haha

have u left room in the budget for some frontstage or deadening or will those be added later?

very nice install

how about u start out with giving us a budget and some more info on what u are trying to get out of your system (not just substage)?

check all your RCA cables too, it may just not be getting a signal (hopefuly haha)

try the ipod thing to rule out a headunit failure

get a dmm, put it to ac voltage, unhook sub, put dmm on amp speaker terminals, tell us the number (if u dont get a reading then the amp is probably boned..)

op says tuned @ 33hz lovin the port insert thingy.. very nice

u just used "SQ" , "coaxils" , and "eargasms" in the same paragraph... lol u might want to do alittle more research before u drop 2 grand on this shit

did u install these yourself? where are the crossovers located? what kind of power are they seeing?

gl on the build

just got back from the theater aswell. deff a movie worth seeing

mach 5 ixl has great reviews with about that power aswell nothing wrong with under powering it

The new carbons are different, I forget what the differences are tho.... If someone Has the ts for the carbons, I'd like to see them.

from personal experience raammat > dynamat extreme. cost wise u get hellz more raammat then dynamat. performance wise id say raammat looked alittle thicker.

caps = fail

Looks correct to me. should have been ~22.5 volts i believe

wow... either it was clipped to hell or he had it wired to 1ohm and getting like 900 rms (if it makes rated power).... or both x2 power and clipping lol

might aswell give it some headroom since he wont be needing to run rear fill. maybe active down the road??

u dont have to give them the full 300rms but with your "icon pounding" you might need alittle more then 100 a side...

ya or even 250 on components and 150 in deadening for front doors. and yes, bridge the amp to the comps

the factory wire from the battery to the terminals under the hood are probably pretty crappy, if your planning to do the big 3 you would have to upgrade those wire (or run new ones along side it) in addition to the rest of the steps

glad u got it working, congrats