lithium

well it seems like the cz702 is a bit strange but will still work. you will use the hu's subwoofer out for the midbass and the hu's mid out for the subwoofer. this assumes you're running the just a 2 way + sub in a midbass and fullrange set up. \\ you would also need to use the subwoofer amp's low pass filter. not a terrible compromise for using that unit.

if you want to play around with an active 2 way then i suggest you take the sundown component set and try to make it sound better active than passive. once you figure that out then you're ready to build a real 2 way set up. maybe 1+ year down the line a 3 way if needed.

m5 pointed out that the pioneer hu couldn't process the midbass + fullrange setup on page 1 of this thread.

I own them. look at any review or build log that uses them. no one runs them above 300hz.

again, the pioneer cant high pass the fullrange low enough to match up with the midbass.

the sls 8 cant play over 300hz, no way will it match with a tweeter. you also can't run the sls with a full range driver with that headunit. nor can it process a 3way + sub set up. Take a step back and listen to people who actually know what they're talking about instead of getting your panties in a bunch.

sometimes there's a rounding error. let winisd calculate a value, it should be close the number published by Fi.

i use photobucket

the dayton is not a midbass driver at all. You should take the passives you're using currently and go active with just them until you learn the basics of an active set up. Then maybe move on to a midbass + fullrange set up. Don't pull a ncc and try a 3 way right out of the gate.

if you have to install the amp back there, i would think about cutting the hole for the blow thru on the driverside and install the amp towards the passenger side.

i vote this

if the seat is not back with hard plastic or metal then you're fine.

it only matters if its noticable by ear unless you compete.

smart phone? lots of apps let you do that or plug it into a pc.

wow, it has resolution down to 1mm? i really want to play with one. Resolution is wavelength dependent. In finding losses though 1mm was EASY oh right, makes sense. can you post some before and after pics when you mlv the doors?

got an old motorcycling running today. kawasaki 1980 440 ltd. hasn't been touched in 20-25 years.

the kickstarter is at $5.5m with 8 days left. ridiculous.https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1003614822/ponomusic-where-your-soul-rediscovers-music My understanding is he wanted a player that was better than MP3. I sure as shit can tell an mp3 from a CD with my good headphones or my Martin Logan's. The Logan's are particularly cruel to production and compression.They make some of my most nostalgic albums sound like flat shit because of it. Just cruel cruel speakers. The flip side is, some of those really well recorded albums have so much hidden content that they sound remastered compared to listening on junk speakers. can't tell a 320 I'd bet money on it.Is that the common standard now? Last time I downloaded an MP3 it was wild to see it at 128 bit rate. I've never downloaded a song so don't ask me, just telling you what I'd rip at. Actually I don't think you'll even hear 192, but there are exceptions to that rule. Blind a/b really shows how bad our ears are got some stuff off amazon yesterday. seems they use some kind of variable bitrate. 200-250 kbps mp3

wow, it has resolution down to 1mm? i really want to play with one.

Will do. Thanks! Do you suggest using a familiar song or test tones when setting gains by ear? I've read it's best to use tones since its very easy to hear distortion. As far as clipping on my sub goes, I can't hear distortion when the clipping indicator comes on, it just sounds louder. I've heard the indicators are pretty accurate though, because they measure the rail voltage in the amp or something along those lines. clipping is fine, its just distortion. distortion is only a problem when its audible. so the clipping light doesn't convey to the user anything significant. the light is just a gimmick. use a variety of songs. basically you're just trying to get close to some value that maximizes the output. so for songs that are recorded at a lower level you can increase the volume at the hu and match the output to songs recorded at a higher level. setting the gain is never foolproof, you should always be listen for distortion and speaker stress.

dozens of chinese products on the market, owner and CS is all that matters now days.

humor us and disable the rear fill. Its doing nothing for you at all. if you think it sounds better with rear fill its because the front stage isn't set up correctly. check that your ground and power cable are adequate, perhaps thats why its getting so hot. i very much doubt the spotify sends 320 kbps or higher for that matter, over lte. not like you could tell the difference. set the gains by ear not by dmm. output voltage is irrelevant when listen to anything but test tones.

damp pro is pretty good. shouldn't have an issue selling what he doesn't use. Bad quality part was for the shit ton he spent on skar. Unnecessary things is this because he bought too much. oh right, carry on haha

That and it's also nice to use both if you need to do a lot of attenuating with high output setups. i'm surprised you dont see a mute button on the remotes.

damp pro is pretty good. shouldn't have an issue selling what he doesn't use.

I did everything you're supposed to do- gains cranked fully clockwise as far as they would go, bass boost on tape deck at +10, and fuses on amp replaced with jumper bars. I even broke the sub in with 110volt AC current. Not sure why I'm getting the blame for this. forgot the bank of flux capacitors.