lithium

sail panel might be another location idea for the tweeters.

looks like its discontinued on zedaudio's website.

i dont know anything about it really. thought it was strange that they dont have google maps... are they trying to use bing maps or something?

Since when, wow. I asked a Win8 specialist at Best Buy maybe 3 weeks ago and he said no. i dont think its an official app so he probably didnt know about it.

Berylium? sounds like marketing bullshit. bet a 100 dollar tweeter outperforms its.

have you seen this?

model them and find out

they made 15's! you could probably warp space time with a pair of them.

my sls 8s beat the fuck out of my doors. i'm tempted to go with an enclosure next time around but the fiberglass work will be a giant pain. i'm not sure how you go about designing the enclosures for a midbass but i would think you gain some output over IB. and if you can isolate the enclosure from the door you should be better off in terms of rattles. i'm actually buying a new car next month so i'll be reinstalling as well. I think i'll try IB again but use some more aggressive treatments like fiberglassing the back of the door card and using a couple pounds of duct seal around the baffle (and the usual mlv, ccf, cdl, butyl rope treatment).

you can probably pass on the thinsulate for the doors but you forgot about the extruded butyl rope (which helps a ton). if it was my own car I would definitely use the thinsulate. you're probably overestimating the deadening cost for just the doors. get that quote from Don first. shame you already grabbed the hu, could have gone active but this is my idea. deadening - $200 4 channel - $150 used minidsp 2x4 - $100 shipped speakers - $200 (raw drivers)

the better sub would be the one installed correctly in the right enclosure.

dont those cost like over a grand? cant imagine a speaker being good enough to justify that price. in a car at least

sean has the polk version. i've heard the ppi is great as well. I really want to replace my four 2 channel front stage amps with two 900.4's. picked up a ppi p1000.1 to replace the amp my brother blew. haven't installed it yet.

this guys ready for the tanks

nope

Yesterday I was looking for housing, came across these gems: http://tucson.craigslist.org/roo/4291835721.html http://tucson.craigslist.org/roo/4291686478.html http://tucson.craigslist.org/roo/4288703276.html Fuck. I need to bleach my Fucking eyes. http://www.eyebleach.com/

i flocked a pair of A pillars a few years back. just need to remove any residue from cleaning products and maybe rough up the surface with sand paper. http://books.google.com/books?id=IjoS3stx2s0C&pg=PA39&lpg=PA39&dq=race+car+flocking&source=bl&ots=j6e2lU4J3Q&sig=XUPji4zzuDh7vIHvyUJbnn3aCqA&hl=en&sa=X&ei=krq_UN-ZPO6GyQGf-4DADQ&ved=0CIIBEOgBMA44Cg#v=onepage&q&f=false

the amplifier would only have a high and low pass filter. the EQ and filtering in pretty much any head unit is just as good. but what we're suggesting is that you try playing with the EQ to improve the performance. are the front door speakers also type S? to be honest these are not very good speakers but we can try to help you get the most out of them as possible. there are a number of things you can do to fix the issue. 1. disable the rear speakers. (fade all the way to the front using the hu if that works) 2. try flipping the polarity of one speaker. 3. possibly remove any stock grills (try listening with the door cards off to see if there is a difference) 4. fiddle with the EQ, it would be best to only make cuts.

why?

rectifier diode is smoked and i guess it took the filtering caps with it? the amp is a cheap pos so i probably wont try to fix it now. maybe as a project later.

notice the cap with the label blown off. one or two other caps were also swollen fire!

my brothers amp is a bit crispy. posting pics in a min.

what's your current front stage consist of? fail to see how adding tweeters will help. made that mistake myself when i go into car audio back in high school