RAD

I'd like to know along similar lines, expect the possibility of an SPL18

lately i've heard quite a few bigger name companies have used various TC sounds motors on their own sub lineups, and i'm wondering, is it possible to salvage the motors (and baskets?) to recone these subs? If so, which models should i be looking out for? I know Eclipse used some in their Ti and 8200 range, and Lightning Storm, Ground Zero etc, but i think Eclipse are going to be the easiest to track down. Also, who can recone these, and to what size? I've found that Fi can recone them in this thread, but it looks like their baskets arent a great fit for most motors. Any help appreciated guys

It's a street beater first and foremost, so i'm not chasing just a score, hence the subs arent on the passenger side. But, i'll do what i can to get louder on music, little gains of 0.5db here, 1db there will add up in the end. Rather work on the install/setup first and gain there, rather than forking out cash to double the power, more subs etc. Interesting that you say bracing and multiple baffling might decrease a score though? I'm guess bracing would restrict or do strange things to port airflow, but double baffling?

Been doing a little work and testing, here's where i'm at on music: It's still a bit low compared to everyone else, but i'll keep working on it

The headunit (alpine 9886), subwoofer is at 15, remote gain so i can make it clip if i wind it too far. Voltage is probably terrible, dont have anything to measure it with, but a single Odyssey 2150 will only run it at full tilt for a half to full song until things get quieter. Alternator is a stock 70A, high outpout alts like iraggi dont exist in this country. I borrowed a meter for a little while, new PB is 147.8 @ 37hz, 25hz still sees me at 140.3. 144.9 on music (lows of USDA-White Girl), after all the burps and lights dimming from a low batt. Gonna try a few things tomorrow, like windows down, removable port, charging the batt, gaffa tape... just stuff for fun.

It's something i'd consider, but i've no idea what figures i ought to be shooting for, and how the whole thing should model. I've opened up WinISD, tryed a few figures, seems like if i have my 3 subs with 7cuft rear, 11 ported @ 40hz, i'd have 96db+ from 30-55hz, reaching 100db at tuning freq. Sounds a little too good to be true?

I'm not after pure numbers on a meter, i'm after a Jekyl and Hyde car: nice, low musical setup for just driving quietly around the streets, but heavy, painfully loud bass when i want to show off at meets. That, and i think theres some satisfaction in getting maximum sound levels by putting the work into the install, not throwing money at it i.e. like the $15-20K Digital Designs installs in this country. Learning what works and gaining skills for the next build will be good too Never played with a bandpass box before, it'd be fun to experiment with loading walls and such/ but from what i understand, your enclosures have to be painfully precise or they fail? P.S. the wall has a divider in it now, so essentially each sub is in its own enclosure. Made a noticable gain, so i'm progressing along as far as getting more SPL is concearned.

It was a termlab of course, meter was positioned about 3" in towards the top passenger side - completely in the wrong spot. The bracing could be removed, but the baffle flex is insane at low notes without it. Peak is around 43-45hz, not sure because i only got 2 30sec runs, and one run the engine stalled. Port used was 175sqin, 14" long - *should* be about 32 hz. Just cut up a partition in the middle of the wall, so each sub sees a 11cuft +/- enclosure, not sharing a 22 -/+ enclosure. Gonna try and test that out tonight or tomorrow.

Interesting car to be adding audio to, but 138 from two 8's is a great score i reckon! And those peerless subs are tough, i saw one guy in Street A throw 6kw to a pair of XXLS 10's in a wicked one for 146+

Welcome dondie, that's a nice score for a 12" in a trunk! It's a tidy looking setup in the back too, so well done all round. My question is, how did you manage to get FI into asia, i thought they didnt export?

Thanks mate Got it metered the other night, only managed 144.4, lost to two other walled guys who tied first with 145.6, 6 x JLW612's and 8 x DD2512's. Meter didnt seem accurate, people with crazy setups got poor scores like the guys above. Will be seperating the two drivers, by making a partition where the vertical bracing is, thinking theres some cancellation going on or something similar. I removed the port and stuck my head inside, it's pretty quiet in there. It might not help, but it's worth trying. If all else fails, i have a 3rd IXL as spare P.S. any tips you guys want to offer on getting louder, feel free to chime in!

This looks bloody awesome mate. Its on a whole other level than most, in terms of sheer overkill, and the finish is up there too. Cant wait for numbers!

Just an update, i'm using the 175sqin port you suggested before. Sounds great, not a hint of port noise, from 35-55hz it sounds as good as my old DD9512, but can still rock notes from 35 to the low 20's. We metered it last night, 144.4 @ 43hz. We dont think the stores meter was accurate, as two other walled guys got within .2db of this, and trunk/hatched cars got low scores with similar figures of 128/133 respectively. Some minor port tweaking (possibly a bit lower) and a possible cancellation issue (inside the wall is very quiet) should see a very musical 150db sytem on my hands P.S. the IXL 18's seem to be catching on in Oz, i know one guy just brought 4 of them for his wagon!

Will be metered tomorrow, hopefully 150 or very close. The water issue is fine, so long as it doesnt pool: i used a piece of dynamat as a 'roof' above the momo's, so they should be good. Amp clearance? The amp is in the cabin, just a half inch behind the b-pillar. Anyway, i made a new port, 175sqin 14" long. Seems to be better tuned now, still not as loud as it was though. Perhaps it could have been the sikaflex caulk around each join of wood? Or the thick closed cell foam tape i used on the baffle? Cant tell me that bracing the baffle better decreased the score? Just trying to figure this out, things should have gone the other way and gotten louder Thanks for the comments though guys

No, have'nt tried shortening the port, but i think i need to. I added a third layer to parts that needed it, covered gaps/seams with silicone, and pine bracing to stop the baffle flexing. Instead of going from loud to damn loud, it went the opposite way: my wall actually got quieter, and i'm real pissed off. its not all that louder than my old atomic 10's were, apart from more air movement. Maybe the extra wood inside has changed the box size and thus port tuning, maybe the subs are choking from 125sqin? Although my box specs in cuft and port sqin are close to what Steve Meade has, and he managed to put 4 18's in his box? I'll put the big port back in, shorten it if it seems too low. If the subs still unloading with that port, i'll cut a 1/3rd off of the width and try that.

Well, it's up and running, just not finished off or sealed up. I'm still experimenting with different ports, originally Mark specced me up a massive port, 250sqin 26" long, but anything other than having the windows up sealed saw the subs unloading. Damn low tuning though, made the chassis flex! Halved the port to 125sqin, much better for music as it really shone during most rap/rnb tracks, just tuned a couple hz too high to miss some lows. Pics: Big port, almost 4cuft with braces at the back to hold it down: Port cut out and in, nice sealing with the duct tape Slipped a screw, pierced the surround. Tried superglue, but it swelled up New port, will be removable soon:

Have 4kw on tap, but gains are set very conservatively so they'll see far less. A little port noise i can put up with, but not if it wheezes and farts at every note. Not that 250 doesnt work too bad, but the woofers dont like my windows being all the way down, or a door open, and the tuning seems to be far lower than 30hz. Anyway, i'll experiment with some ports today, and see how each sounds in the car.

Removable wall, or non removable? Non removable, expanding foam + beauty baffle. Removable, just the baffle, snugly fitting the contours of your rear doors.

Quick update, i made the port, its damn huge, and thats an understatement. Quick test in the car, and not much air is moving through it, although given my baffle isnt sealed off and permanant yet, some air loss is to be expected. Also, a fair few people on an aussie forum say its too big, and that i should be shooting at half the size, so the original plan of around 120sqin sounds good. May make a test port of 120sqin, by abot 6-8in long, should tune just as low apparently. Oh, also did a very very bad thing: puctured the surround with a screw driver. Usually super glue or nail varnish works, but this foam didnt like it and swelled up. Ordered a new woofer, the punctured one can be a backup if i ever blow one, or have some fun with HT

I've been busy the last few days, havent updated here, so i thought i'd throw in some choice pics. Anyway, the walls mostly finished, inside there's 2 layers of 3/4mdf, i'll put more in later. Here's a pic with all my edges sealed with silicone: Today i got a start on the baffle, again 2 layers, but from the advice of some other guys, 3-4 layers is where i want to be with 18's. Just marking them up for the cutouts: Cut and a test fit with the Mach5's: Tested the baffle and subs in the car, damn they make it look SMALL! Wired both up for the hell of it, even if the baffle is still leaky, and no port. Hooked 'em up to a 2x65w 2ch amp, so their each seeing 30-40w at most. Still damn loud, and they LOVE 30~hz. Had a bit of a problem, the original specs Mark gave me were for 12cuft for both, but after measuring the wall, it came to be almost 24cuft, its bigger than it looks! Mark updated the specs, and i'll have the port done tomorrow, then we'll chuck on some real power and see how they play

can u put 2big of batt in a car? Another vote for a better battery, rather than a second. A second will mean your alt (which is probably stock?) will have to work to keep two batts charged. I run a big Odyssey PC2150 in a small Hyundai 4cyl hatch, stock alternator (70A?), big 3 upgrade using 0g wire. Can play pretty hard all day, can even do a couple of tracks at 2-3kw before it starts to drop in voltage and clip.

Thanks Mark, you're a champion! LOVE my low end, which is why i brought the IXL's. We'll see how it performs over the weekend once its done.

What about a Lada Niva? Many people use them in New Zealand and some in Australia, since we cant access Panda's. Fair bit of room too if you decide to put a wall in it.

Ahh, but how much more? I've got about 320sqin available on the baffle, the original spec was for 120sqin. EDIT: 250sqin by 23" long comes to about 29~hz on RE's calculator. Any good?

Alright, bumping this up, cause mark i need some help. Currently, after some rough calculations, my wall is 24cuft (net)big in my car. I have 2x IXL.18's, obvioulsy 24 cubes is too big for your suggested 6cubes @ 30/32hz. Port and subs would displace 2-2.5, but i've still got about 9-10 cubes too much. ANY chance they'd play well or at all in 10cubes each? I'd grab 2 more, but that means making a clamshell to fit, and that itself would take up a few cubes, making each sub 4.5 cubes net. If not, looks like i'm gonna have to seal away 1/3rd of my wall. the wall so far: